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What is the best ISO to use with the Lightsphere PJ


garden rose

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I recently joined this forum and recently purchased a Lightsphere PJ

with the inverted dome. I am looking at the family pictures I took

this week and thinking about my next wedding I am shooting and

wondering if I could use a lower ISO level on my Nikon D70 when I

use my LPJ. Whatever Lightsphere you shoot with what do you find is

the best ISO setting for you?

 

Thanks,

Candice

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I'm just curious as to why your concerned about the ISO in conjuction with the LS? The ISO sensitivity is in no way dependent on a light diffuser. The amount of available light v/s your need of shutter speed should be the determining factor of your ISO (Unless your shooting high ISO just for the "Look" of grain/noise). The LS's purpose is to diffuse what ever ISO fits your lighting needs. IMO, the question isn't "What is the best ISO to use with the LSPJ" it is "What is the best ISO to use for XXX lighting conditions".

 

The answer would then be dependent on whether you are using a tri-pod or hand-holding. Then, you would need to meter the scene to evaluate your shutter speed. Then you would need to test your light for output and make proper compensation adjustments. Once you have a good understanding of your light reading, only then would one be able to decide what ISO would be sufficient to capture your subjects properly.

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I like my Lightsphere II with ISO 400 inside. I have never used it ouside. With decent cealings (not too high) my "majic" formula seems to be ISO 400, 1/60-1/90, F3.3-F4. I know Gary Fong says to use the highest ISO you can, and he says to use the largest aperture you can, and he says to use the slowest ss you can. I have experimented a lot, and the settings I mentioned seem to work the best for me. I use a Fuji S3.<div>00EeLA-27170184.jpg.ea309d6fbee36d7cabd84adfef2461e5.jpg</div>
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I agree with Jamie, soemwhat. If I take an avalable light reading inside a dark reception hall, there is not much light. My ISO would be very high, and my ss would be LOOOONG. I use my flash and my lightsphere to fill in the light. One thing that is nice about the lightsphere is that it seems to fill in the surrounding light too. Not just light up the subject. It is because it bounces light, instead of direct flash. So, yes, you need to learn your light, but you need to learn how your lightsphere will fill in the light also.
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ISO, shutter, and aperture depend on how much ambient light you want to allow in. I always use 800+ iso for indoor. The darker the brackground, the higher iso going to be and alway use slow ss and open wide my Fstop.

 

To me, the picture above is ugly becuase i can't tell if the B&G is dancing in the cave or dancing hall. I can't see the background, so I assume the B&G is dancing in the cave. That is ugly to me, but not to others. everyone have different taste.

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The reason I asked it because I have noticed that (as with all flash photographer) the harshness of shadow is directly linked to the light sensivity. No matter what diffuser you use if you shoot at 200 iso in a dark room the shadows will be harsher. There is also the graniness issue. As well. If I go up to 400 ISO on my Nikon D70 then will my grain be fine enough if my client orders a 16x20? I am just trying to trouble shoot before there is a problem, to avoid them.
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Candice, I disagree. For many years I never exceeded ISO 400 and shot mostly @ 200

(Nikon D1X), Same with the Canon 1Ds first version which produced too much noise in the

darks at higher ISOs. Only recently have used ISO 500+ for wedding work with the newer

Canons, and never more than 400 with the new Leica DMR. Shadows aren't an issue if you

use the right shutter/aperture combo and BALANCED diffused flash.

 

In terms of noise control, more folks should shoot RAW and learn to alter contrast, curves,

color balance, brightness, shadow ... and use the advanced features to reduce color noise

in ARC. You rarely if ever need things like Noise Ninja if you learn to process RAW files

properly.

 

Sizing is also a function better handled at the RAW stage. ARC interpolation is superior to

just about any "after the fact" sizing program out there unless you are making a 8' print (in

which case Genuine Fractals is the way to go). Other than mural sizes, using the pure RAW

data to enlarge is the way to go.

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Hi Kari,

I am new to Digital I have not yet attempted to shoot a wedding but hopefully soon. My question to you about your photo above since i had the FUJi S2 which took a dive and went to the trash because the repair was more than a new body will cost. I have noticed that no matter what i have done the camera has a red cast to the photo. Was your photo processed an dthat the look you wanted or ist my monitor but it appears too red to me.Thanks

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I am Sorry Kari if I took the liberty to fidel with the image a little and I gree everyone has a different tase I happen to like it. It is about B&G. The background should enhance the photo, it should not be the main subject in the photo well i hope I made sone sense. I am not very good at explaining sometimes. My aplogy Kari if I stepped over my boundry.
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I am Sorry Kari if I took the liberty to fidel with the image a little and I gree everyone has a different tase I happen to like it. It is about B&G. The background should enhance the photo, it should not be the main subject in the photo well i hope I made sone sense. I am not very good at explaining sometimes. My aplogy Kari if I stepped over my boundry. opps too much blue
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