Jump to content

Mamiya RB67 rulez


rpallagi

Recommended Posts

For some unexplainable reason, I bought an RB67 set, because it was

offered at a great price and heard it is great for landscapes/high

res shots...

 

I mounted the 50mm on it put it on a tripod and went hiking inside

soon to be demolished buildings... My chromes will be ready

tomorrow, but even they will turn out less then expected I am

already happy I got this chunk of metal. You might ask why...

 

Well the beast slowed me down. Way down. Made me think before I

pressed the shutter, to the point that 27 frames took me 3 hours to

take, and felt I took to much photos! This could never happen to me

with my 10D :)

 

For example I climbed up onto the top of an 8 story building walked

around for 30 minutes and came down without a single shot because I

didnt find it was worth the shot. also the metering (I used sekonic

308) got really tricky sometimes. like when a cloud passed over me,

than cleared up, then cloudy again in 30seconds...Or after climbing

up I couldnt meter the light downstairs :) I just guessed... :)

 

Anyways, I didnt want to waste film, and load in another film into

the back which is much more hassle than changing a CF card, so I

took my time with every shot.

 

the WLF was also much useful than a prism viewfinder because of the

low level shots.

 

Only complain I have is that in low light the finder got really dim!

was real hard to focus. maybe a chimney finder would be better, but

I can not fold that making the beast less portable in tight places.

 

Also. Is it normal that I hear a buzz (like a mechanical timer)even

at 1/2 to 1/8 times from the lens? should I bring the lenses to a

checkup or is it normal?

 

I hope the hiking and thinking was worth it I try to upload some

pics as soon as I get a scanner (thinking of the new Epson V700 but

not yet available here in Hungary)

 

Greets

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Regarding the dimness factor of your screen, search this forum for opinions on Bill Maxwell's screens. I got one for my 501CM and its even better than the (already great) standard. He is a true boffin.

His contact details (from 2-3 yrs ago) are:

Bill Maxwell

MAXWELL PRECISION OPTICS, PO BOX 33146, DECATUR, GA 30033-0146 USA

Ph:(404) 244-0095

maxwellprecisionoptics@toast.net

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Regarding the dimness factor of your screen, youo may wish to search this forum for opinions on Bill Maxwell's aftermarket focusing screens. I got one for my 501CM and its even better than the (already great) standard. His contact details (from 2-3 yrs ago) are:

Bill Maxwell

MAXWELL PRECISION OPTICS, PO BOX 33146, DECATUR, GA 30033-0146 USA

Ph:(404) 244-0095

maxwellprecisionoptics@toast.net

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The RB67 is an absolute bargain at the prices they're going for these days. It was my first foray into medium format, and I couldn't be happier. I haven't touched my 35mm camera in 8 months.

 

Regarding the dim screen, yes, the stock screen can be difficult to focus in low light. I picked up a second hand Brightscreen and it's made a huge difference. I also have a metering chimney hood, which works very well and eliminates the need for an external meter.

 

Regarding the buzzing in the lens, the mechanical shutter timer can be loud and is noticable at slower speeds. I have both the 90mm and 180mm lens, and both exhibit the same behavior.

 

I dragged this beast around Japan for two weeks. I came back with a very sore shoulder but absolutely fantastic photos.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This too was my first dabble into photography bigger than 35mm. I used to have a Elan 7E and a couple cheap lenses. I really wanted to get into MF while the prices were incredibly low. This thing really is a beaut. Yeah the dim viewfinder is sometimes hard, but it's something I'll deal with. Also in the studio I just love not having my face buried into a 35mm viewfinder; I rather enjoy looking down into it! I've got a buzzing during long exposures as well. I'm assuming its some kind of little track thing or something to measure the time. (lol I've got no clue how the lens is built). Anyways keep your body forever, hopefully it won't be too long until the 22 & 39 MP backs come down in price a tad. When I can get a 39MP for $8,000ish (and if my needs justify!) I'll probably look into it! Have fun with the chromes, there's just something about them that a monitor doesn't compare to. I'm really partial to mine!
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hang on Roland, the ride is just beginning. Once you�ve shot a few Keepers and blow them up to 11x14 or bigger there will be no going back. Pretty soon (after you have added a few more lenses to the RB) you will start to think the RB is a little heavy for �grab and run� candid shots. Of course going back to 35mm just won�t do anymore. You will have to add a 645 system as well. I am not speaking from experience of course, just observations. By the way, a split prism makes focusing a lot easier. Have fun, the process of slowing down did more than anything else to improve my photography. Using a tool that is capable of absolutely stunning results did not hurt either.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes these cameras certainly teach you the art of photography - composition & exposure.

 

I have it's cousin the RZ67 and absolutely love it too. Who says they can't be used in the field. I just returned from a outing of a few hours. The camera looks funny like I'm carrying around a giant x-ray gun or something. Yes waist level finder is the way to go, it's brighter and easier to focus than the prism. I'm thinking of getting the chimney finder too for my RZ, it's a lot higher magnification with no cropping of your image so focusing should be even easier, although I've had no focusing problems with my RZ using the standard screen. Much of the time I use a light monopod with a manfrotto swivel head and a kirk clamp and plate and it works out great, I can shoot sharp images down to 1/15 sec with my 180mm lens. I'm saving my pennies for that new Epson v750 scanner due in May.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

"hope tho that you compensated for any bellows draw!"

 

You mean I have to adjust the exposure valies if I draw the bellows further out? I see the markings on the side of the bellows, but I do not know wt�hat they are for... Well this afternoon when the slides are ready I will find out :) I rtried to download the manual from the Mamiya site, but the links I found were all dead. thx for the comments.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

have fun! i got an rb also a while back. i love it so much. i have taken it to SE Asia a few times. spent 6 months at a time there. had 3 lenses and two backs. it was heavy, but that builds character. now i find it very easy to use the waist level. i use the magnifiing glass alot when i compose. i have made numberous prints up to 24X30 inches. they look AWESOME.

 

eddie

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You do need to compensate for bellows extension for more than minimal amounts.

 

There is a scale that becomes visible on the right side of the body as the bellows is extended. The curved lines correspond to lens focal lengths. There is a scale on the body that indicates how far away the lens is focused as well as the amount of exposure compensation.

 

I have the manuals in PDF format for both the Pro-S and Pro-SD. If you you want me to email you one, post to that effect, including of course which one.

 

If it isn't clear how the distance and exposure compensation works when you look at it, the best thing to do would be to get the manual, which has both illustrations and instructions.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thx David I would really appreciate if you sent the proS manual (thats probably closer to the orginal Professional) by email. rpallagi at gmail dot com. Thx in advance..

 

Because. I got my slides back this afternoon. I really have to be careful with exposuren on slides it has to be spot on. eg when I put on the extenstion tub no.2 the slide was clearly underexposed, is there a light loss with the tube?

 

That wasnt a big deal BUT: on one of the rolls I hade 4 frames that had 2 exposers on them. The other one was perfect. I think I have the pro S back, and it really should not allow double exposures.

 

I try to shoot the rest 10 rolls of slide film, and try to get accostumed to first advancing the film lever, than the big lever that lifts the mirror, that it will be obvious if I was mistaken or the camera...

 

I just dont get it, because the back (120) switches a red dot and I cant take another shot until I advance the film, and get rid of the red dot.

 

The good thing is:

 

I really loved some of the shots that came out. They looked EXACTLY the way I WANTED and as I remembered them. the colors and DOF is amazing.

 

I pay some extra for the minimum quality scans and I will get the results monday. I really want to get some comments from you...

 

Greets

 

Roland

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've hiked around Colorado with a RB67 ProS and a bogen tripod (3011/3041), and never regretted the weight.

 

You should get the lens/shutter timed by a repair shop. The shutter is a clockwork type mechanism, and it's not uncommon for the 1/400 speed to be way slow.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...