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Most practical ND filter for waterfall and river shots???


cimino55

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Hello,

 

I'm going to Africa with my Contax 645 and I am looking for a

good ND filter to blur water in streams and waterfalls. I already

have a Singh-Ray Warming Polarizer Plus which blocks light, but I am

looking for a good ND grad. What is the ND grad you use most. I'll

be using Fuji Velvia 50, 100 and Provia 100F on a tripod with cable

release. I don't anticipate using more than 8 second exposures, but

who knows? Is the .6ND the norm?

 

Regards,

 

Adam Cimino

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Are you looking for a graduated ND filter or standard ND filter? If you want a graduated neutral density filter, the Singh-Rays are among the best available. If you just want a standard ND filter, I like the selection from B+W. Both the graduated Singh-Rays and the B+Ws come in various strengths. The Singh-Rays also come in a selection of soft graduated, hard graduated, etc.
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Adam,

 

I would think the 2-stop (.6) would cover almost all of your needs with the films you're

using. Exposures of 1 sec. to 1/8 are usually sufficient if the water is moving at all. But

some people like longer exposures.

 

Have a great time (and keep that lovely camera out of the water and away from rhinos.)

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I think the .9 is the minimum you should take.

Even with a 2 stop using Velvia 50, I have found it insufficient to blur waterfalls.

 

Depending on the lighting conditions,stopping your lens down to f22 and using the "sunny f16 rule" with Velvis 50 you will be facing a reading of 1/4sec @ f22 in bright sunlight with a .9. Depending upon distance and lens used, this is hardly sufficient to blur movement.

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Depends on the conditions of course, but I often find myself stacking a polarizer and a full ND (not graduated)on the lens, then using a big square lee graduated ND in front of the lens--sounds crude, but the bigger ones are easy enough to hand hold, and I can put it where it looks good. I've done 6 sec exposures (and a little longer) this way (and have only gotten my thumb in a couple of shots over the years).

 

Even with the slow film speeds you're using, you'll probably need a fairly strong amount of ND to get a decently long exposure. . .even on strongly overcast days (best waterfall weather) I've found I've had to stack a couple ND's to get the longer exposure I needed.

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  • 3 years later...

<p>I am actually looking for my first ND filter myself. I have been reading alot of articles over the past few days, and I think I want two possible three nd filters. What is the best setup if anyone of you could go back and get a set of two or three nd filters what would you choose and why.<br>

I am becoming interested in these because I want to start blurring water and streams, I went out the other day and kept blowing out my highlights and I couldnt get even close to what I wanted, so I dont even know where to start? I am using a canon 50d.</p>

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  • 1 month later...
<p>I would suggest a 6 stop (64x) filter like the Hoya #106 for 100 ASA (or slower) film. This will get you into the range of several secs (taking reciprocity into account) in most cases; if not, you can always stack a polarizer on top for 1-2 more stops, which will give you some seconds more in that time range.<br /> I did all of these with the #106 and a 100 ASA film: <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/41606243@N05/3836908432/">here</a> , <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/41606243@N05/3836908342/">here</a> , <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/41606243@N05/3836117757/">here</a> , and <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/41606243@N05/3836117697/">here</a> .</p>
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