APO TELYT 280 1:4 (11360)

[pascal_pau]

Hello from Luxembourg to all american Leica Fans,

 

I bought one year ago a VARIO-Elmar 105-280, but it was to havy for

daily use, so I bough a 90 and a 180 fix focals. But now I am

missing a 280. Can you tell me if it still worth to buy a APO TELYT

280 1:4 (11360)even if I have a 180 and the extender 1,4x. Thanks.

[doug herr]

Only you can decide if it's worth it. I can tell you that the 280 f/4 APO is a superb lens, though rather large and heavy for its focal length and speed. If I were to use the 180 + extender I'd want to add a rotating tripod collar, probably the Burzynski. I'd be very careful about putting the 180 + extender on one of the smaller R bodies, and then mounting the body on a tripod. The tripod mount of the R4 through at least R6 bodies and possibly R7 is a weak point.

[fotografz]

Doug, where does one find those collars? I also need one for the Hasselblad 250/4FE which

gets pretty heavy hanging out there with extension rings or a 2X. Thanks.

[doug herr]

Marc, the Burzynsi products are sold by www.isarfoto.com (search their site for burzynski). I didn't see any collars for anything other than 35mm or 35mm-based digital SLR cameras.

[pascal_pau]

Thank You Doug for your advice. In deed it looks realy unusual this colar - I have to try it out. About the extender : do you mean the image quality will be better with the APO 280 1:4 than with the APO 180 1:2,8 and the APO extender 1,4 = 250 1:4 ? Anyway the 280 is of course much heavier like you said. Pascal.

[fotografz]

Maybe one made for a 35mm tele will work for the Hasselbald 250/4. I'll contact them and

see if one might work. Lots of bare barrel to work with on the FE lens. Thanks again Doug.

[doug herr]

Pascal, I don't know how the image quality will compare. What I know is that the 280/4 APO is among the sharpest lenses ever made. Even if the 180 APO equals the 280, the 1.4x extender will cause a small loss of image detail so the 280 will probably out-perform the 180 + 1.4x extender. Whether anyone will notice a difference in real-world conditions is a separate question.

<P>

The 280mm focal length is very important for me so it makes more sense for me to use the 280/4 than to use the 180 + 1.4x extender. If you don't expect to use the 280mm focal length much but you want to have 280mm available at minimal extra weight the 180 + 1.4x extender is a flexible option with (probable) minimal image quality loss at 280mm.

[kevin m.]

I have no interest in any of the lenses mentioned, but it was nice to see such a civil exchange

of information.

[henryk_barnas]

Doug, how about 280mm f2.8?

Based on the advice and results from you website and my financial capabilities I am actively looking for 250mm 4.0 telyt. Which of these three 250 f4, 280 APO f4 or 280 APO f2.8 is best performer in you opinion, considering picture quality.

[doug herr]

"<I>Which of these three 250 f4, 280 APO f4 or 280 APO f2.8 is best performer in you opinion, considering picture quality.</I>"

<P>

Henryk, in the central part of the picture area and considering only the in-focus areas (not bokeh) the two 280mm APO lenses are pretty much equal. Outside the central area, and if bokeh is a concern, the 280 f/4 IMHO is the best of the three lenses. The 250 f/4 (late) shows some lateral color abberation which degrades the image quality outside the central area. The 280 f/2.8 has some astigmatism that causes the weaker performance toward the edges at larger apertures. The 280 f/4 APO's peak performance is at full aperture from center to the extreme corners.

<P>

The 280 f/2.8 would be my choice only if f/2.8 is important to you. The f/4 APO performs better, has a closer minimum focus and is not as big. The 250 was good in its day but the APO lenses are much better.

[doug herr]

Kepp in mind that any lens on your camera is better than the one that sits in the store's display because you can't afford it. The late 250/4 served me well until I was able to purchase the 280 f/4 APO:

<P>

<CENTER>

<IMG SRC="http://www.wildlightphoto.com/birds/thrushes/mobl00.jpg">

<BR>

<B>Mountain Bluebird</B> - Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming<BR>

<I>Leicaflex SL, 250mm f/4 Telyt-R</I>

</CENTER>

<P>

For a few months I used a 280 f/2.8 APO graciously loaned to me while my 280 f/4 was in Solms for repair:

<CENTER>

<IMG SRC="http://www.wildlightphoto.com/birds/meleagridae/witu16.jpg">

<BR>

<B>Wild Turkey</B> - Sacramento County California<BR>

<I>Leica R-E, 280mm f/2.8 APO-Telyt-R</I>

</CENTER>

<P>

The 280 f/4 is awesome. I could get used to this kind of performance soooo easily :-):

<P>

<CENTER>

<IMG SRC="http://www.wildlightphoto.com/birds/tetraonidae/blgr02.jpg">

<BR>

<B>Blue Grouse</B> - Yosemite National Park, California<P>

<I>Leicaflex SL, 280mm f/4 APO-Telyt-R</I>

</CENTER>

[pascal_pau]

Doug, these are wonderfull pictures. So I think you have convinced me to buy the 280 APO 4. It will be a "400" f.4 with the DMR - but I prefer the brillance of slides. Did you hid yourself from these birds to take these pictures ? Thanks again.

[doug herr]

"<I>Did you hid yourself from these birds to take these pictures ?</I>"

<P>

No, the birds were completely aware of me. The birds were about 2 meters or less from me for each of the photos. I've been developing a technique for approaching the birds without alarming them, and it helps to find particularly cooperative birds.

[ken_kartes]

Ok Doug, we are nibbling at the bait. Can you give some pointers about your technique?

[doug herr]

Ken, the simple answer is that I try to act like a prey species, not a predator.

<P>

The longer answer: At some time in their lives, most animals are prey to some larger animals so their survival depends on recognizing predatory behavior. I try to avoid predatory-like behavior and I try to act like I'm watching for predators. When I mimic prey-species behavior long enough the other animals gradually realize I'm not a predator and will allow me closer.

<P>

Predators stare at their intended victims, watching every move to take advantage of momentary vulnerabilities; predators also try to sneak closer and to conceal their movements. On the African savannah a visible lion is a safe lion; the one to be wary of is the one hiding in the grass.

<P>

Prey species watch for predators and predatory behavior; they're aware of unusual sounds, rapid movement (for example when the lion pounces) and are very suspicious of another animal trying to conceal its movements.

<P>

I don't try to hide or sneak; any time I move I try to do so while I'm in the animal's field of vision. I don't stare or allow my camera to stare; I look at other things in the area, I pay attention to unusual sounds, I fidget with my camera or other gear, and I'm not silent. I'll burp, sniffle or fart as nessesary; I talk to the animal or mumble to myself, or scratch an itch. I don't leave the camera pointed at the animal any more than nessesary because the lens looks like a big staring eye. I noticed this especially when I was using the Canon 400mm f/2.8 I had for a year or so; the big 'eye' of that lens totally freaked the critters out: I'm able to get much closer with smaller lenses.

<P>

Initially I do all this stuff outside the animal's 'flight' distance, the distance at which it feels I'm dangerously close. Find the flight distance by watching (while not staring) for signs of nervousness: some animals twitch when they're nervous, some go into a defensive stance, some hunker down and try to disappear in place. After several minutes outside the flight distance using the prey-species behavior you'll see the animal start to relax; the flight distance has shortened. Repeat as nessesary. Never approach directly toward the animal, always at an angle or with seemingly random movements. A smaller profile helps; I'm 6'1" tall and I find that I can get a lot closer on my knees than when standing.

[ken_kartes]

Thanks for all the advise Doug. I am 6'2" myself.

[henryk_barnas]

Thanks Doug.

Thank you for advice and your pictures are outstanding.

[dale_edward]

Pascal,

 

If you are able to get a 280 4.0 APO lens, I think you'll be quite happy with it. I use the 280 for doing portraits and the background blur has a very distinct signature to it that is unlike other lenses such as the 100 2.8 APO or the 180 2.8 APO lens. Using the 180 2.8 APO with the 1.4 tele is a viable option, but I think you'll prefer the look of the 280 4.0 APO lens.

 

Dale

[pascal_pau]

Dale,

 

Thank you very much for your answer. I think you are wright about the 280 f.4 - but indeed I don't use the focal enough and it is realy to havy. You know I had before the Vario-Elmar 105-280 - who is a good lens too. Sorry about repling so late.