Nikon F2 Meter

[cypherkin]

Hi guys,

 

I have recently acquired a camera from my DAD, a Nikon F2 that he

bought way back in 1971. I sent it to Nikon to get it repaired and

cleaned, and they said that they will charge me 450$. So moving on to

second options, I went to web to find dealers and camera repair

centers and called up a few places. finally I found something iN

South Jersey, who said that they will clean the camera for 25$ and

also let me know what the problem is. So in the end after everything,

I found out that Metter doesn't work, and it needs to be replaced.

The guy was asking for 200$ to replace the meter. I was looking

around and found this website, and I was wondering if someone could

help me by providing me with proper idea of the METER. Is it worth

repairing, or should i just buy a external meter(as an attachement).

Also I am a novice at camera's and hence would like any sort of help

about just information as to; would I be able to take pics w/o the

meter? and how does the meter help?

 

Thank you,

Jhon

[todd peach seattle, washi]

Here's a great site for info on that camera:<br>

<a href="http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/nikonf2/index.htm">http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/nikonf2/index.htm</a>

<p>

Some of the 'economics' of the meter repair depend on what model it is. If you have the basic 'photomic' meter, I don't think I would pay somebody $200 to fix it. OTOH, if you have a DP-12 / F2AS, it would be worth it (i.e. the camera would be worth more than the cost of the repair when you're done).

<p>

Can you use a camera without a meter? Absolutely. Check out the 'learn' section here for basics. With print film or B&W film, you can go far on the 'sunny 16 rule'. Last time I checked, consumer film still had these basic instructions packaged with it ("for 200 speed film, the correct exposure is f/16 at 250 in full sunlight"). Once you understand 'reciprocity', and can convert f/16 at 250 to f/8 at 1000 in your head/on the fly, you're good to go.

<p>

A separate hand-held meter will work too, and may help you learn quite a bit about the light you see around you.

<p>

And welcome. You have come to the right place.

[steve_yeatts]

Jhon, tell us what type of meter you have for your F2. Nikon made 4 metered viewfinders for the F2. The values are different, so the type of meter you have will help determine if it's worthwhile to have it repaired. Underneath the word Nikon on the front, does it have any letters? Also, if it's in terrible shape, then it might not be worth repairing no matter what kind of meter it is.

 

You can certainly take pictures without using the meter, but you'll need some way to determine what exposure you need. You could use an external meter, or trial and error.

 

Let us know what meter you have, and we'll be able to offer more assistance.

[Zootman]

Jhon,

 

A couple of years ago I had Robert Decker repair a Dp-1 meter for me. He was reasonable and fairly quick. I have been happy with it since. His web page is http://hometown.aol.com/drwyn/myhomepage/

[christiaan_phleger___honol]

I have to mention Sover Wong. He works exclusively on F2's and does a tremendous job,

his overhauls are worth every penny.

[david_h._hartman]

Since his father bought the camera in 1971 I'm pretty sure it's a DP-1. I'm not checking. The DP-12 came out in 1977 as I recall. The first AI lenses were released in March 1977.

 

Regards,

 

Dave Hartman.

[todd peach seattle, washi]

I'll 'third' Sover. Still, I'm not sure I'd have him re-hab a DP-1. Unless you've convinced yourself that it's a great finder, the repair price may exceed (or come very close) to the worth of the camera.

<p>

Sover can be found at:<br>

<a href="http://www.geocities.com/sover_wong/Nikon_F2_Repair_Service.html">http://www.geocities.com/sover_wong/Nikon_F2_Repair_Service.html</a>

[hugh_crawford1]

You may find this interesting

 

http://www.cameraquest.com/frames/NPhotomicRepairs.htm

[sergio_ortega7]

Jhon,

 

It might be easier and cheaper to just buy another metering prism for your F2. Check out the larger used equipment sellers for a working DP1, or later model.

[michael_bach2]

Buy a external meter, ore swap the F2 for a F3 or a FM3a. The F2 is nice,(and

it is a gift from you father) but the new Nikons are just more handy and easy to

start out with. You can have a okay F3 for 250$.

 

www.micbach.dk "Art Photography workshops in Spain"

[scott_warn]

Jhon, I understand the sentimental value of something that you got from your father. It's also quite likely that your "71" F2 may someday become a high value collectable, that is an "early" F2 and someday will be sought after. Take a look at what "first year" F models sell for and you'll see what I mean. One great thing about the F2 is that it is so "customizable". Since your father purchased the camera in 1971, I have to assume that it has the DP-1 finder mounted, the DP-2 didn't come until about a year later.

 

There are 2 seperate issues that can effect if the meter for an f2 will function. One is the circuit for powering the meter. This circuit is located in the body and there are 2 basic problems that occur. Corrosion from a leaking battery breaking the wires at the battery chamber. The second is a broken spring contact in the base of the camera. Both problems are simple repairs any good technician can do in under an hour. However, it's a good idea to test your camera to see if you have any problems with the power circuit in the body. First, you will need 2, MS-76 batteries to put into the battery chamber in the bottom of the camera. Next you need a voltmeter, I'll bet you either have one or have a friend who will loan you one. Next you'll have to remove the meter prism. To remove the meter prism, you push in on the button on the rear left of the camera, while at the same time push inward and then down on the release lever on the right front of the prism. The prism should then come straight up. Now if you look a the top of the prismless body, you will see 2 round posts on either side of the opening for the viewfinder. These are the power contacts for the meter prism. Move the wind lever on the camera to the "standoff" position. BTW, the "standoff" position has the wind lever projecting 20 degrees out from the body and is the "natural" return postion for the wind lever after you wind a frame. Take the volt meter and put the probes on the contact posts for the meter prism. You should see a 3 volt reading (negative or positive doesn't matter). If your using a needle style voltmeter and the needle swings negative, just reverse the leads to get a positive reading. If you see a 3 volt reading, your camera body is just fine.

 

Assuming that your camera's power circuit is working, the next step is to address the meter prism. DP-1 meters ARE a bit problem prone. The main problem is wear OR dirt built up on the ring resistor. It's also very easy to break some of the internal wires if someone has tried to "fix" the meter without knowing what they are doing. Unfortunately, fixing these meters is a very "fussy" task and, as you have seen, it can be expensive. Since a "low mileage" meter's most likely problem is dirt buildup, an easy way to "fix" it is by simply using the camera. Try pushing in on the battery test button on the meter, if the needle moves at all, it's quite possible it will come back to life if you just use the camera. A lot of DP-1 meters can be brought back to life jsut by "twiddling" the shutter speed dial and the aperture ring on a lens mounted to the camera. That is because the contact wipers on the ring resistor have a mild cleaning action. On a high mileage meter it won't do a thing because the contacts are probably worn off. However, with a low mileage meter it won't cost a thing to try and it's successful surprizingly often.

 

If usage won't bring your meter back to life, the next option is another meter. These are easy to find, and the DP-1's being problem prone, means that the DP-1 meters are relatively cheap. If you want another DP-1, look for meters with the best appearance. "Pretty" DP-1 meters are the most likely to be low mileage units that can be brought back to life with use, beat up meters are likely to be worn out.

 

In addition, Nikon made 5 seperate meter prisms for the F2. They were the DP-1, DP-2, DP-3, DP-11, and DP-12. The low cost meter prism to look for is the DP-11, it uses an FRE instead of the ring resistor and the FRE based meters seem "bulletproof". The only problem with the DP-11 is that it was designed for use with AI lenses. You'll either have to have any non AI lenses converted to AI function (about 40$ per lens), or learn how to meter using the "stop down" method, which is very inconvenient.

 

BTW, if you want to invest some bucks in your F2, the DP-3 meter is the one to look for. It's the only FRE based meter for the F2 that is designed for use with non AI lenses. Since the DP-3 will work perfectly with any lens that has the traditional "rabbit ears" installed, it's the most versatile and durable of any meter prism for the F2. The problem is that they are rare and command a pretty high price, ususally between 300 and 400 USD. As for the durability, I currently have 3 that were acquired back in the late 70's while they were somewhat cheap. One is from a newspaper equipment sell-off and it's really been trashed, the string for the shutter readout was completely worn through. After spending 14 hours re-stringing the shutter display, it now works perfectly. Like I said, the DP-3 is nearly "bulletproof".

 

PS, ignore any posts recomending that you give up on that F2. The F2 was the FINEST camera that Nikon ever made and it won't ever be matched again (unless Nikon re-releases it ala the S3-2000 and later SP limited editions). They are only making that suggestion because they are jealous. Really, there are so many meter options for the F2 that it's easy to resurect, and being a "benchmark" camera, it's worth spending some money on.

[michael_bach2]

Wery good and informativ answer Scott. Maybe I will repaire my AS meter .

What will it cost. Any good repairing peopel in Europa.

 

www.micbach.dk "Photography workshop in Spain"

[todd peach seattle, washi]

Michael -

 

Sover Wong is currently located in the UK. I'd send my AS meter to him (and in fact I bought an F2AS off of him when he was in Oz).

 

Link in my post above.

[cypherkin]

first I would like to.. thank you all very much for taking time and answering my question(s).

 

Todd Peach: Yes, I agree about the fact that 200$ is pretty expensive, the breakup of the cost is ~45$ for the meter itself, and ~$150 for actual replacement (labor). I think, I need to look for other places in New Jersey/ New York City who would repair it for cheaper.

 

Steve Yeats: I am going to pick the camera from the shop this week. I will let you know which model it is exactly.

 

Christiaan Phleger: I checked out Sover's website, and I google'd him. He looks like the guy to goto for F2[as most of you have mentioned :)], but also the price seems high. I will email him and try to get a quote, for meter replacement.

 

Scott Warn: That was a very informative answer, and definitly alot for me to digest. I think it will take me some time to understand what it is I will be doing to the camera, and again I will try this once I get the camera back :). I will let you know how the experiment ends up. Any ideas on where I would be able to look for meters (ebay??). And, I will definitly not give up on the camera itself; I do plan on keeping it and getting it back to working condition so that I can actually use it. Thanks again!!

 

Any of you guys know someone here in the USA [in or around state of NJ] who does these repairs.

[jack flannery]

The F2 is basically a Swiss watch, built out of rock. Make sure the shutter is accurate and fix, or find, the DP-1 meter. I am a geologist that used a F2 in the field and had a boulder roll over it (rattlesnake, jump, dislodge boulder, down it went, over the camera). Only one small dent. I doubt a F3 or newer would survive that. Besides, the thing doesn't even need a battery to fire. I just bought a F2 body again, and haven't even seen it yet. F2's are very organic to use. The epitome of simplicity, yet very good in accuracy once you get used to it. I am looking forward to using the thing. F2's will be around when every digicam built today will be obsolete by the "next great thing". Heck, I'm thinking about getting rid of my D200 for a D300 and it's a year old. Thinking about it, quite possibly the best thing you can do is sit on your couch and just fire the shutter for a while so the mechanics get loosened up.

Jack