Nikon D-70 Lens "to get me closer" - any suggestions?

[colette_cannataro]

I have a Nikon D-70. The two lenses I own are: the 18-70mm "kit

lens" and the 55 - 200mm AFS VR DX Zoom Nikkor, which I also like,

but doesn't get me as close-up to the kids during sports, etc. as I

would like. Do any of you more experienced photographers have any

suggestions for me? I was thinking of the Nikon Telefoto AF-S Nikkor

300mm f/4D ED-IF AF Lens, but once I saw the price, I figured I

better check with some people who really know!! I would greatly

appreciate any input. Thank you - Colette

[hayward]

Buy a used 300 f/4 300mm AF (not AFS) for about $500 or a used Nikon 75-300 (older version) for $200 or so, or a new Nikon 70-300 if you have to have new for about $250. Go to www.keh.com as a starting point.

[joseph_smith3]

Get a used Nikon 300mm f 4.0 AF lens as mentioned above. It is a great lens, very well made and quite sharp. If that does not get you close enough, get the Nikon TC 14B, a 1.4x tc for this lens. However, you will lose AF with this tc. You can substitute a Kenko tc to retain AF; use search to get the correct model number. Joe Smith

[ShunCheung]

Either the older 300mm/f4 AF (with 82mm front filter thread) and the current 300mm/f4 AF-S (77mm) is fine optically. The old version has a non-removable tripod collar while the current version has a removable one that is somewhat problemetic.

 

If you need fast AF, I would check how well the D70 drives a 300mm, non-AF-S lens. The AF motor inside the D70 a relatively weak. That is of course not a problem if you use AF-S lenses that have AF moters inside the lens.

 

BTW, I think a used 300mm/f4 (82mm filter) is considerably less than US$500 in these days.

[jbq]

I agree with John's very good recommendations.

[dennismk]

There is also the 80-400mm VR lens great for sports because of the VR factor. You have lots of ways to go and thats part of the fun I get is doing reseach on new gear I need/want. You and your wallet are probably better off with one of the 300mm AF units with converter.

[greg s]

300 f/4 300mm AF is a good choice, as mentioned. I also have a 70-300mm zoom, but the 300mm prime blows it away in regards to sharpness and contrast. I've been meaning to try using the 300 more for people photography, but tend to just use it for birds, wildlife and most recently, mushrooms. :) -Greg-

[armando_roldan]

<<<There is also the 80-400mm VR lens great for sports because of the VR factor>>

 

The VR factor will do nothing for sports since it works at slow shutter speeds. And the 80-400mm is dog of sports lens with its slow autofocus.Even on a F100 it fairly slow and the D70 is even a slower focusing camera. And unless you use a monopod with this lens, you will get really tired carrying around this monster...and it costs $1200.

[klix]

Actually, first I'd see if a teleconverter gets you close enough and if you can live with losing a stop.

[lex_jenkins]

Sports photography is one of the more expensive pursuits. Not quite as expensive as serious wildlife photography, but close. Big lenses cost big money. For casual stuff you can cut a few corners and still get decent results. A few ideas/suggestions...

 

If you decide to get one of the 70-300 Nikkors get the non-G version with an ED optical element. It costs a bit more but it's a better lens than the cheaper version. (BTW, I'm not biased against G lenses, it's just that the two 70-300 Nikkors are different designs.)

 

It's the telezoom equivalent to the 18-70DX, with comparable strengths and weaknesses. A slowish variable aperture zoom that's still fast enough for shooting action in bright light. Set the ISO to 400, the aperture to around f/5.6 in aperture priority and your shutter speeds will usually range from 1/500 to 1/3000.

 

The autofocus isn't as quick as the 18-70DX or 300/4 AF-S prime because it lacks the more sophisticated Silent Wave Motor. But the 70-300 still autofocuses quickly enough in bright light to shoot action.

 

However I'm not sure the 70-300 is a good value for you because you already have the 55-200. For a little more reach you have a few other options.

 

Besides the 300/4 AF-S Nikkor, you might also consider a used 80-200/2.8 AF-S Nikkor and a good quality teleconverter. Not cheap - comparable in cost to the 300/4 AF-S - but you might also consider selling or trading the 55-200 to offset the expense. Lots of pros and serious photographers combine good quality teleconverters with top quality zooms like the 80-200/2.8.

 

But teleconverters seldom make good partners with moderate quality variable aperture zooms like the 55-200 (assuming that Nikon even suggests this lens is compatible with any teleconverter), altho' Nikon says the 70-300/4-5.6D ED (but not the 70-300/4-5.6G) has at least limited compatibility with teleconverter use.

 

The 180/2.8 AF-Nikkor is a top quality lens that has limited compatibility with Nikon teleconverters. It might offer better compatibility with a third party TC from Kenko, I dunno. Being an AF, not AF-S, Nikkor, it's not one of the quicker to autofocus. But it's a top notch lens (some say better than the 80-200/2.8 or 70-200/2.8 Nikkors) and you can always prefocus on the anticipated action zone.

 

The 80-400/4.5-5.6D VR AF-Nikkor may not be the ideal action telezoom, but prefocusing on the anticipated action zone helps a lot. (It autofocuses very quickly on my D2H, but I haven't tried it on a D70.)

 

Keep in mind that while quick autofocus is a good thing to have, it isn't absolutely essential. Lots of great action photos were taken with manual focus lenses. For now I'm using a manual focus 300/4.5 AI Nikkor, usually prefocusing where I expect the peak action to occur. Most of the time it works. Unfortunately the manual focus Nikkors aren't a really good match with the D70 (no metering with most manual focus Nikkors), but the older 300/4 AF-Nikkor is fairly affordable in good used condition and has a focus limiting switch that *might* help. I've tested this lens for only a few minutes with my D2H and it seemed fine - reasonably quick AF and the focus limiter was helpful. But I didn't buy it because it was a pretty worn sample. Someone who's owned and used this lens for a while could offer more helpful comments. You should also ask, or test, how smoothly you can transition from autofocus to manually focus if you find this necessary. Some Nikkors (and third party lenses) handle this well, others are a bit awkward.

 

If I was on a fairly tight budget and wanted a good 300mm lens (prime or zoom) that was fully compatible with the D70, I'd probably get the older 300/4 AF-Nikkor. It's built like a piece of iron pipe so even well worn examples should continue functioning.

[greg s]

One thing to factor in with a 300mm prime is that you will need to use a tripod. Canon has an Image Stabilized 300mm f/4 but us Nikon users don't have that advantage. It doesn't take much of a tripod to achieve good results, but you will need something under the lens. -Greg-

[lex_jenkins]

A tripod isn't absolutely essential for use with a 300/4 if the light is bright enough to allow fast shutter speeds. I can't handhold steadily due to a spine injury but I can do well enough with my 300/4.5 AI with shutter speeds at or above 1/2000. The image may wobble a bit in the viewfinder but the photos are still sharp. If I can lean on or brace myself against something I can manage 1/1000, sometimes even 1/500.

 

Anyway, a monopod is a better choice for sports photography. I'm still using a tripod and it's a PITA. I have to be continually aware of people around me so I don't trip them, or choose an out of the way location and poorer shooting opportunities.

[ShunCheung]

When I had the 300mm/f4 AF (pre-AF-S), I used to use that on a monopod a lot. A monompod takes the weight of the camera and lens off you and it was pretty easy to get sharp images at 1/125 sec or above, provided that the subject doesn't move much.

[frank_skomial]

180/2.8 AF + Kenko 1.4 PRo 300 tele converter, (or even the Kenko 1.5X SHQ - Super High Quality), would give you sufficiently good quality pictures, nearly as good as 300/4.

 

It will be easier to handle smaller setup (180 + 1.4) than the 300/4. With tele converter removed you will also have excellent 180/2.8 for all other purpose like portrait, graduation, weddings, travel, etc. You would have much less use of the 300/4 outside of the socker field or widelife.

 

With Kenko tele converter (SHQ) you will preserve Auto Focus, and Auto exposure, and also VR if you will ever have that in the future.

[hash]

I have used the Sigma 70-300 APO lens with acceptable results. It's slow, but it's only 150$ and very light and compact. It's can double asa useful macro lens too.<div></div>

[greg s]

Yes, tripod or monopod, something should be under a 300mm prime lens to stabilize it. In really bright conditions one can get away with handholding it (as we all know), but for general use a 'pod is in order.

 

The 70-300 zoom can produce reasonably good results in some circumstances, but there is no comparison between that zoom and the prime. Depends on what level of quality a person is after. Once one gets used to photos from the prime, it becomes difficult to revert back. I'm setting my wife up with a 70-300 for her vacation in January though, since it's so light and portable.

[michael_millard]

I have the 70-300/ED type zoom and I think it might be a bit slow to focus for some sports. Good lens though, overall.

 

I seems you already received some good advice on alternatives.

 

Here's an idea: (And I'm really not joking.)

Why not just go on the field and use your existing lenses?

Maybe you could sign up as the official "Team Photographer"

Share your photos with the other parents, etc...

 

The money saved will sure help with the college fund!

Of course, I'm thinking "Tee-Ball".

...probably won't work as well with olympic swimming!

[sushil]

"It will be easier to handle smaller setup (180 + 1.4) than the 300/4. With tele converter removed you will also have excellent 180/2.8 for all other purpose like portrait, graduation, weddings, travel, etc. You would have much less use of the 300/4 outside of the socker field or widelife."

 

This is a good suggestion. I recently received Nikon AF180mm f/2.8 as a gift from my brother