kari douma Posted July 5, 2005 Share Posted July 5, 2005 I am finally getting around to testing my lightsphere. I tested it inside, and I am very happy with it. I tested it outside, and still need some work. What are you doing with the lightsphere outside? I took a picture of my daughter in the back yard tonight. I set my camera to "P" with the lightsphere dome on, pointing at my daughter. (This was exactly what Gary Fong's website told me to do.) I took several pictures. Then I took the lightsphere off, and dialed my flash to -2 for fill, as I would have if I were not using the lightsphere. I left my camera settings the same."P" gave me F4 1/60 @100 ISO. The lightsphere image was blown out as you can see. How are you using your lightsphere outside?<div></div> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
todd frederick Posted July 5, 2005 Share Posted July 5, 2005 This whole outdoor digital fill-flash issue has me mystified. I use an Olympus E-1 with an Oly FL-50. Inside it was great, but for fill on a bright day, I had the opposite results: I made no adjustment on the flash or camera, "P" mode, and it was underexposed by 1 full stop! I don't have a clue. I guess I just have to use it and write down what I do to get the results I need.<div></div> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
picturesque Posted July 5, 2005 Share Posted July 5, 2005 I would think you'd have to dial in -2 when using the Lightsphere as well as when not using it, especially if you don't have auto fill reduction (I think you use a Fuji S3?). As for the difference--two different cameras, both used in an automated mode, will do different things. Plus, in Todd's example, the flash/Lightsphere combo might just have run out of power in that high brightness situation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grant g Posted July 5, 2005 Share Posted July 5, 2005 Outdoors, at close range, I've still been using it pointing up. Meter for ambient or up to -1 and let the flash fill. I'll use it facing the subject if over 20-25' away. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daydreamsart Posted July 5, 2005 Share Posted July 5, 2005 I'm still trying to master this myself, but here's what I do. Camera on manual. Metering set to spot, EV on the camera (or flash) set to +2/3 to +1, flash on E-TTL and HSS. LS2 with dome on, pointed forward. Adjust aperture and shutter for the background. Focus on subject and shoot. I've had better luck with the LS2 by NOT following Gary's instructions.<div></div> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beauh44 Posted July 5, 2005 Share Posted July 5, 2005 Lightsphere outside, 550EX 1Ds2, evaluative metering, -1/3 stop exposure compensation, -1/2 stop flash exposure compensation, dome on, pointed at subject. 70-200mm f/2.8L IS. Just fyi ;-)<div></div> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daydreamsart Posted July 5, 2005 Share Posted July 5, 2005 Kari, you just need to spend more time playing with it. I bribe my kids with a magazine (keeps them from getting bored) to sit for me while I'm trying to learn something new. But first, start out with an inanimate object, and when you feel like you're getting good exposures, bring out the bribe and the kid. Don't use the Program mode, you lose too much control. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lb- Posted July 6, 2005 Share Posted July 6, 2005 I've had the LS flare the lens badly (at least with the 16-35) when the dome is pointed forward so I just always leave it pointing up indoor or out. I like the thing. It's silly looking but it's a great ice breaker as EVERYONE asks about it and seems to like it when I explain that it's a very special "beauty dome" and makes everyone look pretty. plus, it works pretty well for what it is. here's an outdoor fill shot. AV 1/400th 2.8 16mm on 1.6x body 580ex LSII no flash comp.<div></div> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lb- Posted July 6, 2005 Share Posted July 6, 2005 here's another of the same shoot with a little direct sunlight falling on the face. It balanced very well I thought. No flash comp. 580ex with LSII<div></div> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kari douma Posted July 6, 2005 Author Share Posted July 6, 2005 You are right Nadine, I am using the S3. I have the SB800 flash. I find my flash is always on the hot side anyway. I'm sure if I hadn't dialed my flash to -2 without the lightsphere, it would have been overexposed too. Is anyone else using the SB800 with the lightsphere? I know I have to play with it more. I was just starting at the beginning, so I can work from there. I was just curious to see how everyone else uses it outside. Those of you who use the lightshpere, can you see a huge difference with it in your outdoor pictures? I really like it inside, but I am wondering if there will be a noticible difference on the outdoor shots. What do you think? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kari douma Posted July 6, 2005 Author Share Posted July 6, 2005 What I don't get is the variety in answers. Cindy uses a +flash compensation, and Beau uses a - exposure and - flash compensation. Does this account for the difference in cameras, or the difference in metering techniques? Thank you for all the responses and samples so far :)! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve_levine Posted July 6, 2005 Share Posted July 6, 2005 I'm not familiar with the LS 1 or 2. But I do know that any such device relies heavily on walls, ceilings and floors to reflect light back onto the subject. Outdoors, devices like Stofen's Omni bounce, are completely useless,IMHO. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andre j. Posted July 6, 2005 Share Posted July 6, 2005 Actually the whole idea of a LightSphere II is that it does not need to bounce, the dome itself does all the diffusing.<div></div> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve_levine Posted July 6, 2005 Share Posted July 6, 2005 "the dome itself does all the diffusing." Only in an "ad" man's dreams. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
think27 Posted July 6, 2005 Share Posted July 6, 2005 Beau - please fill in the caption line when uploading photos so that the image shows in line and not as a link. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neal_thatcher Posted July 6, 2005 Share Posted July 6, 2005 Lucas...thanks for mentioning the lens flare thing w/ it pointing forward. I used it on my 17-35 and had a haze and flare I was trying to figure out. I have had good luck w/ the 20D 580EX combo facing forward w/ my 50mm 2.5 using it as fill for backlight. This has been a great option for me and I hope to have it totally dialed in before using it for anything I can't reshoot.<div></div> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wedding-photography-denver Posted July 6, 2005 Share Posted July 6, 2005 I found that with outdoor use in broad daylight and backlit, the +2 is what I end up most pleased with. if the light is late day (the magic hour or there abouts), then the -1 works better (except with the sun directly behind in which case back to the + comp). Night time use varies widely depending on the available light or lack of. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wedding-photography-denver Posted July 6, 2005 Share Posted July 6, 2005 You should also know that the LSII sheds light in all directions which can produce some unwanted self portraits...<div></div> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
picturesque Posted July 6, 2005 Share Posted July 6, 2005 Kari, the differences in flash compensation have to do with different cameras/flashes. Note that all the people who described what they did for exposure were using their flash on TTL--whatever kind of TTL their camera uses. I know, for instance, that with the 20D and 580EX, one usually needs to dial in +2/3 flash compensation just to get the flash to NOT underexpose. So Cindy's +2/3 flash compensation reads to me as no flash compensation. Beau was using a 550EX and a 1Ds2, Todd, I know, has an Olympus E-1. I know Canon cameras have auto fill flash reduction, which no one addressed in their descriptions. Don't think you can compare what someone with a different camera/flash does to your situation. You have to figure out what your camera does in similar situations and use your controls to get the best exposure/fill flash out of it. Since it's digital, it would be very simple to set up several different kinds of outdoor lighting situations and systematically test combinations of ambient/flash settings to find what works best. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wedding-photography-denver Posted July 6, 2005 Share Posted July 6, 2005 Just a sample of the LSII with -1 comp and the camera set to e-ttl ( differing from your system slightly) and in AV mode. This is in the shade and with an overcast sky. I think that the dark clothes caused the collars to blow out a little as this confused the e-ttl. Hence I suggest lots of practice :-)<div></div> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve_levine Posted July 6, 2005 Share Posted July 6, 2005 Michael: you are shooting directly into a glass window. You will always get "flash back" in this situation, regardless of what gismo is fitted over your strobe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
picturesque Posted July 6, 2005 Share Posted July 6, 2005 Steve, I think Michael meant that since the Lightsphere throws light all around, including downward, it lit up his face and arm in the window, which would not necessarily have happened with, say, an OmniBounce, which doesn't throw light downward. You get the flash reflection regardless of course. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robyn_mumford Posted July 8, 2005 Share Posted July 8, 2005 I shoot with a D100 and use an SB80-DX flash. Any advice for this particular camera and flash? I am a newbie when it comes to flash photography and I was unaware that I had to turn my flash / camera down to something like -2, as Gary's site does not say that at all and I was trying to follow his directions to a T. Thanks, Robyn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
david_lau Posted July 12, 2005 Share Posted July 12, 2005 in regards to: "Meter for ambient or up to -1 and ..." To clarify for me, Do you First - in M mode, spot meter the background and purposely underexpos by a stop. Then - focus on the subject and flash away! In other words, you do not need to dial down the flash? Thanks much. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grant g Posted July 12, 2005 Share Posted July 12, 2005 David, Yes, that is what I mean. Using ETTL on a 10D or 300D. Usually, if anything, the flash is dialed up a bit depending on the colors of the subjects relative to the background. M mode if I am controlling a shoot since it forces me to take my time and think. Very rarely Av with up to a stop lower of exposure compensation if I am doing candids, being lazy, or in a hurry. That usually requires/encourages chimping though. Grant Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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