missy_schneider Posted August 30, 2005 Share Posted August 30, 2005 hello everyone, I want to try out a 4x5 view camera. i've read the article on the website for such, but it isn't helping me out. Since I'm just begining, i wanted to get something cheap. I've been on ebay and bh used section and everything is still rather expensive. I'm looking to buy a complete set for under $200. I don't care if it's old, just as long as it works. anyone know where to get one cheap, or is there a brand that offer cheap 4x5s? Thanks for all your help! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j._salty Posted August 30, 2005 Share Posted August 30, 2005 Hi, have you thought about the option of maybe renting a LF camera to see if it's really something you might enjoy. The least expensive used camera appears to be the older Calumet, the CC-400? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tedharris Posted August 30, 2005 Share Posted August 30, 2005 Missy, $200 is pretty cheap for a camera, lens and a few film holders but you might be able to pull it off. The lens is going to be far from the best but it will give you an idea. Check with Midwest Photo and Quality Camera to see if either have something used that will work for you. If you could sped twice as much you could do with ease. The earlier advice to try renting some gear for a week is excellent, LF is very vry different from the smaller formats and it is not for everyone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt_needham Posted August 30, 2005 Share Posted August 30, 2005 You can usually find one of those old Kodak or Calumet solid steel monorail view cameras for under $100. They are heavy but cheap. You should be able to find a press lens for $100. If you are willing to give up some of the movements look at press cameras like Speed Graphics. I see them on Ebay all the time with lens and film holders for under $200. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
._._z Posted August 30, 2005 Share Posted August 30, 2005 Define "complete set" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
troyammons Posted August 30, 2005 Share Posted August 30, 2005 I would say probably a crown graphic. Be sure to get one with front tilt. I just sold like new complete crown graphic setup with everything for $250. It had no front tilt though. All you would need with something like that is film. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beepy Posted August 30, 2005 Share Posted August 30, 2005 <a href="http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00DMLG">This thread</a> or <a href="http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00DOGq">this thread</a> may be of interest. <p> Have you scoped out film cost and cost (and difficulty for color of finding labs) of developing sheet film? That is where I think it starts to get painful... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adrian_seward Posted August 30, 2005 Share Posted August 30, 2005 You should consider what kind of shooting you want to do. I have the two cheapest 4x5 cameras you are likely to find, and they do completely different things, so that's an important consideration. One is a crown graphic that I got for $100. It's fairly easy to carry and easy to shoot handheld, but if you want movements it's not a good choice. The other is the Calumet cc-400. It was, I think, $227 with lens and film holders. YOu also need a sturdy tripos. It's heavy and slow to use. It's no fun at all to lug around, but it does give me a pretty good range of movements, so I use it a lot more. So the suggestions above are right on, but you have to decide which will suit your needs. I got both of mine on ebay, ,which is the best way to get a bargain, but also risky. It helps if you know a bit so that you don't end up buying the wrong thing. Maybe you can find someone to loan you one for a few days. Where are you? good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
btmuir Posted August 30, 2005 Share Posted August 30, 2005 Like beepy said it would depend on the movements you need and what you plan on shooting. If you don't do real demanding architecture I'd consider a Speed Graphic. You can get away with the limited movements available for most landscapes and it will give double extention for macro. If you get one with the rangefider set up for the lens included you can even use it handheld. Speeds generally go for cheaper than the Crowns cuz they have a focal plane shutter and are heavier. The FP shutter (if functioning) allows a wider lens selection also. You can get a complete kit (case,film holders,120 roll film back and even sometimes a Polaroid back) for US $200.00-$250.00 on the auction site if you are patient. Be sure to get one with the Grafloc/international back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eli_griggs Posted August 30, 2005 Share Posted August 30, 2005 More than you asked for but here it is? The Crown Graphic is a good platform to start-out with, but don?t count out the Speed Graphic, for tripod and handheld work, it has taken many of the greatest photographs ever! It has a funky built-in shutter, and that can be used with old lenses whose shutters no longer function, (read this as cheap glass). The Speed Graphic shutter is a ?learned? exposure, especially with old lenses and can be a lot of fun. Ask around and see if you can salvage an old Polaroid 110a or b model camera for the lens, to use with the 4x5. Good glass and fine shutters. One way to get some of this gear is to assist an older professional on a shoot or two, trading labor for older sheet or roll film holders, tri-pods, bags, etc he/she might not use/want anymore. Holding reflectors, toting gear and running for lunch a weekend or two can pay off big time, just don?t undervalue your labor and agree on what you?re swapping for ahead of time. Have overtime worked out in advance. You don?t really need more than 10-20 sheet film holders, (20-40 sheets of film,) but if you can find and learn to use a changing bag, you will have gone a long way in expanding you capabilities away from the studio. Mark and modify your holders, as suggested by Adams, and keep an updated log when shooting. Say for example you are shooting a landscape, expose a uniform range, two sheets on what you think is your best exposure, one sheet half a stop below, one sheet half a stop above and lastly one full stop above. Learn to strip the holders in the same order every time, even in the field, and you will be able to easily pick out the film you want to develop at will. Make a good light-tight, focusing cloth?white on one side (out side) deep, matt black for the inside and sew up some canvas sandbags to weigh the tripod and dampen movement from wind and bouncy wood floors, etc. Shoot B&W and develop a few sheets at a time in small print trays, by hand rotation, you can do this in a small, light-safe space on the cheap, without the expense of 4x5 tanks and hangers. You can learn to do as many as 10-12 without too much trouble. If you must do color, look for the labs where the work-a-day catalogue photographers are getting their work developed, often in a couple of hours. Cheers, Eli Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j._salty Posted August 30, 2005 Share Posted August 30, 2005 Another option would be to post your geographic location to see if a LF shooter could meet you and show you some LF equipment. Of course if the LF shooter uses 8x10, has a nice sharp lens and a killer contact print, you'll be hooked like most of us. Good luck in whatever you decide. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beepy Posted August 30, 2005 Share Posted August 30, 2005 <blockquote> Of course if the LF shooter uses 8x10, has a nice sharp lens and a killer contact print, you'll be hooked like most of us. </blockquote> No! You cursed her. :-) Yeah, you hear the digital people (ahem - me on some other forums:-) about their constant upgrades to the latest sensor - they know nothing of true obsession and the never ending path that large format entices with... All those formats, all those places to go - the lure of ULF. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
missy_schneider Posted August 30, 2005 Author Share Posted August 30, 2005 wow, guys! Thanks so much for your helpful advice. I'm looking just for a camera to start out with, lens tilt isn't all that important at first. There is a good store by me that i can rent one for a week for 45 bucks...but...i KNOW i'm going to get hooked. so i thought, why not invest that $45 into a little gadget that i can love forever :) once again, thanks for all your help. when it comes to new equipment, sometimes you just don't even know where to begin...and you guys have gave me a great starting point. Best, Melissa Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kasigi Posted August 31, 2005 Share Posted August 31, 2005 My speed graphic set me back $212 - it had lens and a pair of film holders. It needed a little care with a q-tip to clean it but it works well. It's inexpensive and very sturdy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ellis_davison Posted September 8, 2005 Share Posted September 8, 2005 I would agree with a Crown or Speed Graphic, with a standard (135mm) Xenar, Optar, etc. lens. They are all Tessar-types, and sharp stopped down to f/16 or so. The press cameras are also rigid, and do not give you issues with getting the back and front aligned etc. Not much movement, but there is not enough coverage with these lenses for much movement anyway. Two biggest eBay issues are bellows and shutters. Almost nobody guarantees shutter accuracy, but if they say "sounds about right" it is probably OK. You will be using slower shutter speeds, and clean-lubricate-adjust ("CLA") will be about another $100 if necessary. Look for good comments on the bellows--if it has been patched with tape, it is going south. Replacement bellows for press cameras are a little scarce, but they can be found. Changing them is not too complicated, but you should plan on getting handy with tools (if you aren't already) if you want to stay in this racket for cheap. Keep in mind film is a bit pricey for these beasts: it is a bit like buying a pet. The purchase price is just a down payment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ben conover Posted January 8, 2006 Share Posted January 8, 2006 Burke and James is very cheap with excellent movements and long bellows. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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