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Sonnar 2/85 mm question (s)


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Just came across and bought a Sonnar 2/85, and a have a number of questions about

it. I am uncertain what kind it is. My guess is that it is an uncoated prewar. There is

no "T" or opton marking on it, only Carl Zeiss Jena. It is also not aluminium, so I do not

think it is an East German version, it also says Made in Germany.

 

I suppose that I will also need a viewfinder, any advice you can provide on this? Are

the Russian ones on E-bay just as good as the original Zeiss ones? The price difference

is considerable.

 

The lens looks fine, but with a small mark (deep scratch) on the front element, I hope

this will not make a difference. There is a lot of resistance in the focussing ring

though, so I am not able to use the focussing wheel on the camera (or at least without

shredding my finger to blood). The entire front element also "loose" in that it can be

unscrewed (not totally though). Is this normal?

 

Regards

Bj�rn Petter

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Hi: I may be able to answer some of your questions:

 

1. You cannot use the finger wheel to focus a telephoto lens. This is normal. However, the focus may be stiffer than normal; in which case, it would require cleaning to improve it.

 

2. Carl Zeiss Jena would be the marking of a prewar, or East German postwar lens. Looking at the front, if the reflections on the glass surface appear a neutral silver-grey color, you have a prewar uncoated lens; if they appear bluish or purple tinted, the lens is coated. Since it lacks the red "T" mark, though, even if it is coated it is most likely a prewar lens that was not coated originally. I have had some aftermarket-coated prewar Zeiss lenses that were very, very good.

 

3. You will probably want a viewfinder, though you can learn to guess your coverage in the regular finder, and this can be quicker than switching back and forth to view and focus. If you like tinkering, I also have notes on a viewfinder mask you can make to turn your regular finder into one for the 85mm. these are at http://rick_oleson.tripod.com/index-26.html If you decide to buy a finder, the Russian ones are good; the finder doesn't take the picture. One caveat, though: as the lens gets longer, the fit of the finder in the shoe becomes more and more critical. A slight wobble in a 135mm finder and you can be off by half the frame.

 

4. The effect of a scratch or mark on an element is usually mostly a function of the surface area it affects, as a percentage of the total surface of the glass. Thus a small deep scratch is usually much better than a lot of fine cleaning marks. It can have an effect, though, and a lens hood is especially advisable if you have scratches.

 

5. Things shouldn't be loose. The important thing is that if you tighten it back down the lens must be in the correct position so that it focuses right. Unlike an SLR, you have no easy way to confirm this in a rangefinder. You'll need a little groundglass and a magnifier and some patience. If the position is correct, hand-tight is okay, it doesn't need to be locked down with a monkey wrench.

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  • 4 weeks later...

I've just got some advise from Rick Oleson and Mark Pierce (thanks again to both of them!) regarding my recently arrived uncoated prewar 8,5 cm Jena lens. Mark suggested a visit to The Kiev Survival Site (do a googlesearch, you won't regret it). Stephen Spring's page ( http://home.sprynet.com/~stspring/Zeiss%20Ikon.html - based on data supplied by John S. Craig, of www.craigcamera.com fame) would put a 1938 date on your lens.

I'm running some film through this lens and can`t wait to send it for development.

Isn't this a wonderful place? Cheers!

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