nightphotography

[gustav1]

Hello

 

I've been trying to do some nightphotography and need some help with some exposure measurement-issues. I have searched the forum and thenocturnes but need some more advice:

 

(((

first my equipment, Pentax 67 (modified, no batterydrain), minolta flashmeter IV (-2 ev incident) with 10 degrees spot measure acessory, tables of film reciprocity (tmax100 is my film of choice).

)))

 

1. I have some trouble to measure EV0 to EV-6, my meter is not powerful enough (I have tried to fool it by changing iso to 6400 and so on).

Should I by a different meter?

which one is best for night photography?

 

2. should I learn to estimate exposures and not rely on meters for -ev exposures?

 

3. I only have 10degrees spot-measurement, will it be enough for these types of photography? (I only use 67mf-lenses 55mm and 90mm)?

 

please fill me in! thanks.. /gustav from scandinavia

[ben conover]

Hi, I heard that most people use very sensitive meters up to dusk and then make notes thereafter dark for correct exposure times.

 

Cheers.

[fk319]

I shoot digitaly, so this may not apply directly. When I shoot stars or night time landscapes, I first shoot using a fast lens, F/1.8, and check the historgram to find the correct settings. I then use Jim Lehman's "Extended Range Exposure Guide" that I converted for web use, http://frank.kujawski.org/camera/ulc.php or http://frank.kujawski.org/camera/ulc2.php I set the ISO, Shutter Speed and f-stop, using my fast lens, find the ULC, and then chage to the settings I am interested in. I can then use the new setting with confidence and shoot film. If you are in the field, you can use his guide, but basicly, you are using a fast lens to find out where you should be, and change to your specility lens. You did not indicate what night photography you are doing, so I cant help much more.

[gustav1]

well, call it Kenna-style if you must :),Ive tried digicam but my pentax optio s only takes images down to ev3. I wonder about what meters you are using for these types of shots.

cheers

[ben conover]

There is extensive information in the lightmeters forum, I seem to remember that an old Profisix has a good night mode.

 

Cheers.

[sndr]

I do a lot of night photography in the city and find that if my Gossen Sixtomat reports there is not enough light at -2.5EV, I'm would also have been unwilling to wait the 30+ minutes that the exposure probably would have taken (taking reciprocity into account).

 

With the reciprocity characteristics of tmax 100, exposure times at less than -2.5EV and f/8 would probably be much longer than that.

 

Do you have such extraordinary patience?

[frank_dzambic]

I've shot nighttime photography in the past, where the only illumination was from a less than full moon. Using a Canon EOS A2e I was always able to get a reading by the time I set the ISO to 3200, and could then extrapolate the correct exposure from there for whatever speed film I was using.

 

So I'd say either grab a separate lightmeter, or maybe even grab a digital camera that'll allow you to get a reading at a high ISO, and use it as a "polaroid" if you do a lot of nighttime photography. It's much more expensive than a light meter, but I suppose a lot more useful as well.

[frank_dzambic]

Actually, Frank gave some good advice earlier in the thread as well. I don't know what lenses are available for your system, but getting the fastest possible lens might also allow you to get a reading using the meter you're currently using. Do they make an f/1.0 or an f/1.2 lens for your system? Then you can extrapolate to the film ISO and aperture you'll actually be shooting at.

[gustav1]

yes, patience is not a problem. í ¨ave the fastest lens in my system (2,8) but pentax 67 internal meter is not nearly enough sensitive. my hand held meter goes to -2 ev. Should I buy a more senitive meter or estimate exposures darker than that?

[gerard taillefer]

Hi Gustav

 

I think you might need a Pentax Digital Spotmeter. In fact, you might as well buy mine... (It's nearly new. I bought it a few years ago to complete my big Fuji 6x9 meterless cameras - which are gone by now, sold, as I'm going DIGITAL.)