Using a Ziess Ikonta 521/2 - Newbie Questions...

[bliorg]

Oh, boy - stupid questions forthcoming, and please understand this is

my first <i>classic</i> camera, so I'm outta my element:

<p>

I acquired today, through the generosity of a forum member here, a

Ziess Ikonta 521/2. Needed a small screw to hold the winding knob

together, easily replaced after disassembling an old CD burner. Now,

I can crank the knob, trip the shutter, and - <i>zippo</i> - nothing

happens. I hear it fire, but even on bulb, the leaves aren't opening.

I'm befuddled. Again. And what's the red window for?!

<p>

So, I guess I'm looking for the complete idiot's guide to using

classic folders. Anyone have a suggestion for me?

<p>

Thanks,<br>

Scott

[john_shriver]

Perhaps you need to cock the shutter first. Lever on the top, at least for the typical Compur.

[nicolas_douez]

<p>Wow, could it be another terrific

<a href="href=http:/www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00Cwam">Ikonta</a>

coming from a pretty member AKA "the love"

<a href="a%20hef=%22http:/www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00Cx3N">

here</a> ?</p>

<p>;-)))))))))</p>

[nicolas_douez]

<p>Ooops, the Ikonta is

<a href="http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00Cwam">here</a>

and "the love" is

<a href="http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00Cx3N">here</a> -

so sorry for the terrific links as well... :)

[bliorg]

Ok, the shutter was cocked and, somewhat, jammed. The self-timer was stuck. Eased it back, and I can cock the shutter again. Seems to be sticking on 1/10 and slower speeds - the shutter opens, but won't close. Have to ease the cocking arm back to close it. Gonna have to figure out how to clean a Klio shutter.

 

So what's the red window for? Some sort of rudimentary film counter/spacing thing? And what's the correct way to close the thing? Some sort of release somewhere?

 

Thanks, again.

 

Scott

[mskovacs]

Try the <a href="http://www.kyphoto.com/classics/instructionmanuals.html">Zeiss Ikon Nettar II instruction manual</a> as a starting point. The red window is used to see the 6x9 spacing numbers on the back of the film paper. No automatic advance on these, just turn until you see #1, shoot, turn until #2, shoot, etc.

 

<p>Your shutter is probably in need of service. If you look in Nicolas' first link, you can see what was involved for a Compur Rapid shutter. (although Nancy's seems to be beyond help)

[mskovacs]

For closing, there should be a flat bar with the end hooked-out that releases the back. You pull it out, swing the back open, load, then hold it closed and slide the bar back in.

 

Sometimes the bar gets very stiff and needs cleaning/lubrication to be smooth again.

[glenn_thoreson]

If you are refering to closing the camera front, most folders just require you to push down on the side stuts, which will unlock them, allowing the whole thing to fold into the closed position. There will probably be a button on top to unlatch the front so it can be folded down into the open position, where the struts will lock it in place. Have fun with it.....

[mike_elek]

With all of the Ikontas, you need to manually tension the shutter. That small plunger is only for releasing the shutter.

 

The red window is your frame counter. Wind the film until the number appears. Take your photo and wind on to the next frame. You should get 8 frames per roll.

[bliorg]

Thanks for the help everyone. That link was perfect, Mike.

 

One question - will that whole red window setup work with color films, or only B&W?

 

I'm full of stupid questions today...

[william_barnett_lewis]

The red window is fine with color as well as black and white. I shot several rolls of Reala CS in

that camera. I never really noticed the sticking because I stayed in the faster speeds with it

and they seemed to be "close enough" for print film based on the exposures I got back.

 

William

[bliorg]

Thanks, William. The shutter's closing now on the slow speeds - takes a while, but it closes. I'm going to try "exercising" it tonight for a while to see if it loosens up some more.

 

Print film is what this will see most of the time, but if I can run some slides through it, there are some waterfalls nearby that are calling... ;^)

 

Thanks again.

 

Scott

[mike_elek]

In general, if it's stuttering on the slow speeds, the only thing that will correct this is to clean it or flush it. The other way to use slow speeds is to put the camera on a tripod, use the B speed with a cable release.

[mskovacs]

It should be an easy fix to clean the slow speed train. If you are lucky, a couple of DROPS (not a flooding) on the slow speed gears and a couple of pindrops of gun oil on the star gear and pallet shafts will get it working again.

 

You say its a Klio but with a self timer? That doesn't sound right. Which shutter and lens? Danny Mitchell has a nice set of webpages showing the internals of about a dozen different shutters.

[mskovacs]

Oh - and #1 mistake people make. Mark EXACTLY where the front cell separates from the camera. When you screw it back together, you want to start the threads at the exact same spot.

 

Then read Mike Elek's article on collimating with an SLR and you should be set.

[bliorg]

Hey, Mike -

 

I could be wrong on the timer, but then I need to know what I'm looking at. Ideas?

 

Scott

[mskovacs]

Does it look like this one <a href="http://daniel.mitchell.name/cameras/klio/klio.html">HERE</a>, only larger with a lower top speed? In the second photo, indicated by the red arrow, is the slow speed escapement, which is most likely your problem area.

[bliorg]

Hi, Mike -

 

Yeah, I've been reading that. Looks like that, top speed 1/150. I'll try attaching a picture again...

 

If that red arm isn't a self timer, what is it?

 

Scott<div></div>

[blakley]

I'm not sure where you are on the face of the earth, but here in Texas, you can often get lubrication to loosen up by leaving the camera on the dashboard of your car for a few hours in the summertime.

[mskovacs]

Bob, that's also a great way to migrate oil into your optics, shutte r and aperture blades. It also does a nice job of separating some types of cemented groups. Generally the worse thing you can do to a camera is to overheat it in a car.

 

I think you are right Scott - reading Danny's content it appears to have a self timer. I thought it was the Prontor SV that had this, not the S. (usually V means self timer)

[bliorg]

Thanks, Mike. When I get up enough nerve to tear this apart (read: <i>after</i> I see what kind of pictures I get from it as-is) I'll email you some specific questions. Out of my league, but willing to learn!

<p>

Scott