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how do you explain 8x10, 16x20 cropping conflicts to non photographers


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Hi There,

 

We are wedding photographers and always run into having difficulty

explaining to non photographers that an 8x10 must be cropped and

lose some of the image. It is espcially hard when explaining it in

regard to a 16x20. I think it is simple, but maybe that is just

because I am a photographer. I was wondering if anyone new of any

nifty diagrams that are online to explain it easily, so that I can

just attach it to the email orders we receive explaining it as

clearly as possible..

 

Thanks everyone!

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It sounds like you're having a problem with what people see in online or printed proofs, and what they get in an enlargment. If this is the case, do the cropping at the very beginning and only present proofs that are in the 4:5 aspect ratio. If they never see a 2:3 print, they'll never see what - if anything - was cropped, and there is no longer a problem.
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I know it's a waste of good image space, but I try to leave enough room around the edges to accommodate both 4:5 and 3:2 ratios, and try to make 4x5 proofs. This is one reason I appreciate the Olympus fourthirds aspect sensor ratio since it is a bit closer to an 8x10 than is the 35mm alternative. When I used a Hasselblad, I had a plastic mask on top of the viewfinder to let me know my 8x10 edge limits.

 

I usually try to show the client some samples when I meet them, and include a short note with the proofs explaining these different options.

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Make a sample of each size. Show them the original 4x6 print, then show how much is 'gone' when enlarged to 8x10 or 11x14 or 16x20. If your lab can make 8x12-inch prints, include one for your sample collecton: less cropping is required for the 8x12 print.
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Why would you have to explain that to a customer? Of course you have to crop, but do they care? It's your job to compose the image so that it can be cropped to standard print sizes without clipping some important detail. Then you don't have to make "explain" (i.e., make excuses) when the elbow or bouquet is out of bounds.

 

From a practical point of view, compose to a 5x7 - the skinniest standard print size - any you're home free for the rest.

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I usually leave enough room to crop where it won't be a problem. In shooting digital, I crop the image before I proof to a 4X6 size. If they order it in an 8X10, and I can't fit the image in the 8X10 crop, I go back to the original image and see if there is any more room. If that doesn't work, sometimes I can clone in some extra in photoshop. If that doesn't work, then I'll talk to the customer about it. I usually don't say anything until that point.
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We shoot for the camera image..what we see --not the printer. Offer full-frame prints 7 X 10 ~~~ 7.5 X 5 ,,, etc. Since we include the negs & prints with our package ... No extraneous "areas" are left in the image, nothing left for question...We never shoot for a 8X10 unless specifically requested.
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I thought about giving out transparencies with markings on them with the different sizes.

Luckily my lab allows me to choose the crop.. otherwise the image like the one below

wouldn't work with the standard center crop. (red line to show 8x10 or 16x20 crop) If I

feel the crop is controversial.. I can share this diagram with them to confirm what they'll

receive.<div>00CyGV-24801184.jpg.7774ae32d95066829a093485fc0b8598.jpg</div>

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