marissa_c._boucher Posted July 22, 2005 Share Posted July 22, 2005 Hi There, We are wedding photographers and always run into having difficulty explaining to non photographers that an 8x10 must be cropped and lose some of the image. It is espcially hard when explaining it in regard to a 16x20. I think it is simple, but maybe that is just because I am a photographer. I was wondering if anyone new of any nifty diagrams that are online to explain it easily, so that I can just attach it to the email orders we receive explaining it as clearly as possible.. Thanks everyone! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
david_schilling___chicago_ Posted July 22, 2005 Share Posted July 22, 2005 A neat visual is a cardboard cropping guide but that requires a face to face contact...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
photoreu Posted July 22, 2005 Share Posted July 22, 2005 even though they aren't photographers they should be able to do simple math... everyone knows what a 4x6 looks like... double that and you get an 8x12. That means you have to cut off 2 inches. Or just sell them an 8x12 :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bj_bignell Posted July 22, 2005 Share Posted July 22, 2005 It sounds like you're having a problem with what people see in online or printed proofs, and what they get in an enlargment. If this is the case, do the cropping at the very beginning and only present proofs that are in the 4:5 aspect ratio. If they never see a 2:3 print, they'll never see what - if anything - was cropped, and there is no longer a problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kelvinphoto - arlington, t Posted July 22, 2005 Share Posted July 22, 2005 You, dont! If you can't crop to an 8x10 or 16x20, you charge them as 8x12 or 16x24. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
todd frederick Posted July 22, 2005 Share Posted July 22, 2005 I know it's a waste of good image space, but I try to leave enough room around the edges to accommodate both 4:5 and 3:2 ratios, and try to make 4x5 proofs. This is one reason I appreciate the Olympus fourthirds aspect sensor ratio since it is a bit closer to an 8x10 than is the 35mm alternative. When I used a Hasselblad, I had a plastic mask on top of the viewfinder to let me know my 8x10 edge limits. I usually try to show the client some samples when I meet them, and include a short note with the proofs explaining these different options. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry_ Posted July 22, 2005 Share Posted July 22, 2005 Make a sample of each size. Show them the original 4x6 print, then show how much is 'gone' when enlarged to 8x10 or 11x14 or 16x20. If your lab can make 8x12-inch prints, include one for your sample collecton: less cropping is required for the 8x12 print. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed_Ingold Posted July 22, 2005 Share Posted July 22, 2005 Why would you have to explain that to a customer? Of course you have to crop, but do they care? It's your job to compose the image so that it can be cropped to standard print sizes without clipping some important detail. Then you don't have to make "explain" (i.e., make excuses) when the elbow or bouquet is out of bounds. From a practical point of view, compose to a 5x7 - the skinniest standard print size - any you're home free for the rest. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed_Ingold Posted July 22, 2005 Share Posted July 22, 2005 Pardon - "any" should be "and" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timcorridan Posted July 22, 2005 Share Posted July 22, 2005 make something on your puter and copy it off, use cheap paper and staple it to the back of contract for them.<div></div> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kari douma Posted July 22, 2005 Share Posted July 22, 2005 I usually leave enough room to crop where it won't be a problem. In shooting digital, I crop the image before I proof to a 4X6 size. If they order it in an 8X10, and I can't fit the image in the 8X10 crop, I go back to the original image and see if there is any more room. If that doesn't work, sometimes I can clone in some extra in photoshop. If that doesn't work, then I'll talk to the customer about it. I usually don't say anything until that point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timcorridan Posted July 22, 2005 Share Posted July 22, 2005 i just did the boxes in "paint" wich is in "accesaries" in "programs" i'm sure you can make a nicer one, this was just a quicky. just eyeball them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rich_dutchman1 Posted July 22, 2005 Share Posted July 22, 2005 You can still print an 16x20 without losing people. Just go to Image Size, downsize it to a smaller rectangle format, then go to Canvas Size and type in 16 and 20 (background color black). You end up with a black border, which looks great against a white mat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cjogo Posted July 22, 2005 Share Posted July 22, 2005 We shoot for the camera image..what we see --not the printer. Offer full-frame prints 7 X 10 ~~~ 7.5 X 5 ,,, etc. Since we include the negs & prints with our package ... No extraneous "areas" are left in the image, nothing left for question...We never shoot for a 8X10 unless specifically requested. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anner Posted July 22, 2005 Share Posted July 22, 2005 I thought about giving out transparencies with markings on them with the different sizes. Luckily my lab allows me to choose the crop.. otherwise the image like the one below wouldn't work with the standard center crop. (red line to show 8x10 or 16x20 crop) If I feel the crop is controversial.. I can share this diagram with them to confirm what they'll receive.<div></div> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
david j.lee Posted July 23, 2005 Share Posted July 23, 2005 have you ever tried showing them full frame prints on 8x10 or 11x14 paper? that is what i do in my darkroom all the time. (i hate 8x10 prints) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rcox2 Posted July 23, 2005 Share Posted July 23, 2005 You could put a couple of shots into a Kodak online gallery. That site shows you the effect of ordering a 4x6 vs 5x7, etc. http://www.kodakgallery.com/PhotoOverview.jsp? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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