Remote flash triggers

[mbyrne]

I'm in the process of looking for a wireless remote flash trigger for my 20d. I shoot a lot of bands in clubs

and have developed a good relationship with the clubs. I want to place a flash, probably a 550ex

somewhere up above facing diagonally down towards the stage. I'll probably end up taping it to some

pipes. I'm looking at the Canon ST-E2, but have concerns about it if it cant see the flash on the pipes.

Should I go with a radio slave setup? Is teher something better?

Thanks in adavance for the help.

[steve_dunn2]

<p>I haven't done any work with multiple-flash setups, only read about them in places like this, so take this with a grain of salt.</p>

 

<p>For Canon's wireless multiple-flash setup, the slave needs to be able to see the light from the master. That doesn't necessarily mean line-of-sight; if enough light bounces off other things in the area, the slave can still work properly. If there are light-coloured walls, for instance, or mirrors, the chances of the slave working will increase. Yes, I know, clubs often have dark walls and few if any mirrors, so your mileage may vary. Keep in mind that the flash head and the slave sensor can point in very different directions, so even though the flash is aimed away from you, the flash sensor could be aimed towards you. Or the sensor could be aimed anywhere that the pipes aren't and you could duct-tape a mirror or white card to it to help it see you.</p>

 

<p>A 550EX or 580EX to be used as a master may cost more than an ST-E2, but since the light from the flash unit doesn't have to make its way out through a deep red filter as the ST-E2's light does, you get more range using a flash as a master. You can set the on-camera flash down to a lower output level, or (in at least some cases, possibly depending on which flash and body you use) disable its flash function and use it only as a master, if you want only the remote flash to be used for lighting.</p>

 

<p>Radio slaves will be reliable, though of course you'll have to take flash output control into your own hands instead of using the camera's flash metering system. Given that the flash will be fixed at the same distance from the stage the whole time, that may not be a problem; you can set its power level once and that should be OK. Just don't make a mistake cuz you won't be getting access to it during the show!</p>

 

<p>Speaking of getting access to the flash unit during the show, I know some people have mentioned problems getting a remote Canon flash to wake up if it goes into power-saving mode. I don't recall the details but it's something you might want to investigate to make sure it's not going to happen to you.</p>

[digitmstr]

Taping a flash is NOT a good idea. Get one of the many clamp systems available, they are not expensive and certainly cheaper than having to buy another flash!

 

I have used the ST-E2 with good results in situations similar to yours, except for theater plays instead of music. The trigger worked but, I had the luxury to test during rehearsals. It's never a 100% sure thing because there are contributing factors such as distance, angle, bounincg lights, etc...than can interfere with the ST-E2 (or another IR type system). A RADIO system is by far the MOST reliable, of course.

 

You can rotate the 550s bodies so that they face in the correct, general direction to where you'll be. But, again, get a clamp system to properly position your flasheads. Generally speaking, you can use ANYTHING with a screw hole the same size as a male spigot. You would then, attach a cheap, flash shoe to the spigot and you are done. The shoe can be one of those aluminum ones, *without* contacts. It's there to hold the flash only, not to trigger it, since you'll be using the ST-E2.

[marknagel]

The ST-E2 is a good unit. I too would recommend a clamp setup. It would give you more flexability in aiming the flash and IR sensor. If you are looking at the higher end Radio models, it might be worth looking at a cheaper strobe setup. On a more budget minded note, if you need to extend the IR singal or make it shoot around corners, you can try a IR repeater/remote extender. I have a radio shack remote extender that converts an IR signal to RF than back to IR. It allows you to control a IR stero in a differnt room with a regular remote. Might work, might not, but its cheap.

 

m

[chrisjb]

Hi, I find the clamps from Manfrotto very handy with different attachments for flash etc, generally I use a radio trigger with a reciever on each flash, its a cheepy from Ebay, problems I found was that its great in the studio but in clubs and events some cell phones and radio mikes set them off. To get an auto flash for the extras I have used Metz 45`s at a preset fstop. the 550 is on the hotshoe and radio trigger in the PC socket of the 29D. Usually slaves get set of by the flashing strobe lights on stage. You may need to experiment a bit to see what works for you.

 

Have fun

[dan_vidal]

Being that you're shooting a band in a club, is a flash even needed? Unless it's a real bad lighting rig, I never deploy flash when shooting an act in a concert/club environment. A lot of the time, band management will not allow it at all.

 

But that being said, the ST-E2 is probably the best $200 you'll spend for a Canon accessory.

[rrcphoto]

Okay, this is a related enough thread... the manfrotto clamps are the best thing since sliced bread...btw.

 

The only issue I have with the ST-E2 is that the range is more limited than using a flash on camera.

 

However, I have a another question which I have been pondering about after trying to do a bizzare shot with multi-flashes, and there was no way on God's green earth (even with an off shoe cord 2) I could get the back flash to fire reliably - it was right behind the model's back.

 

Theres plenty of technology for IR repeaters out there mostly for the IR remote market - has anyone tried any of these gizmo's to see if they can be used to get around the limitations of insuring that all flashes can see the main master flash?

 

I know / or have a feeling that the IR is bidirectional, so a receiver/transmitter pair to the ONE flash that no matter what, refuses to acknowledge to the world that it exists in the canon IR network just seems to be the best thing out there. Yes, I know there is hotshoe / RF - however you lose ETTL functionality then.

 

Any thoughts?