Photographing large groups without distortion

[alain_martinez]

Hello,

 

Sometimes I see shots of large groups where I'm sure a wide angle lense was

used, but then I see enough details in the models which leads me to believe that

the the photographer was close or must have been zoom in all the way, and yet I

see no distortion. So my question is, what techniques are used for

photographing large groups of people and not coming out with a shot zoomed out

and 20 feet away with noticeable distortion on the edges?

 

I like group shots (even if it's just 8 people for example) where you can see

detail in people's faces (when enlarged to 16x20 or bigger). GAP and Banana

Republic ads do this a lot. They do a 2 page spread full of people cropped to

3/4 or not, and still see perfect detail and no distortion.

 

What leses? What techniques?

 

Thank you very much

[john falkenstine]

What's a "large" group? Show us some samples.

[alain_martinez]

I found the perfect example. I'm sure this was shot with medium format (I shoot 35mm), but still you notice no distortion and this is a fairly large group.

[a._t.2]

I'm not sure I understand your confusion... use a normal to short tele and back up until the frame is filled edge to edge...

 

Am I missing part of your question?

[neal_shields]

Probably taken with a swing lens camera like a Widelux or Noblex.

[a._t.2]

Yes, Neal. And they held VERY still...

It's just a cropped photo taken with a normalish lens.

Again, I'm missing the mystery.

[a._t.2]

Actually, after looking again, this example may be a composite.

Since you're asking "in general" though, above answer still applies.

[michaelmowery]

YOu example is definatly a multi exposure picure or composite. All pictures taken with a

normal lense then put together to form a wide angle composition.

[steve_levine]

My two cents is that I never use a lens wider than a 35mm (or it's MF equal) for groups. IMHO, a 28mm or wider (or it's MF equal) will always distort.

[beauh44]

<I>this example may be a composite.</i><P>

 

If I'm not mistaken, I could've sworn I read somewhere that it *is* a composite. I think Annie Liebowitz (sp?) did that shot.<P>

 

You might look at DxO Labs software correction solutions - PT Lens is an alternative software product - these are relatively inexpensive solutions that really can help a lot.

 

Other things that randomly come to mind: 1) Obviously use a triopd 2) Make sure tripod is level on both axis(es). 3) Not too sure this would be much help but a tilt-shift lens, possibly 4) Is it the Hasselblad Biogon with the built-in 38mm lens, I think? (Not interchangeable) I recall an old ad for the camera with a Charlie Chaplain look-a-like sitting in a square room with lines painted vertically and horizontally - all straight as an arrow - to demonstrate how distortion-free it is.

[Ed_Ingold]

Egg-shaped heads are a result of rectilinear projection of a 3-D subject onto a plane. It is not "distortion" in the sense of a lens fault (barrel or pincussion distortion), but is a function of the angle of view.

 

All lenses, regardless of focal length, produce this distortion, but less as the focal length is increased (smaller angle of view). The "distortion" goes away if you view the print from a distance equal to the focal length times the enlargement factor.

 

It helps to keep sperical objects (i.e., heads) away from the corners and edges of the shot. This may not be practical for large groups, but works with environmental portraits. Flat or rectangular objects do not show this distortion.

[alain_martinez]

thank you all for your replies. This confirms my initial thought of this being a composite. I would love to see/read something on the making of that picture

 

Thanks again,

[michaelmowery]

The shots are taken in small groupings of two to three people at a time

[mg]

Alain,

 

I'm not too sure whether I understand your question very well, but since you are probably French and me too, feel free to email me about it.

 

Meanwhile, here is the obvious - perhaps too obvious...:

 

1) If you can, move back a lot and shoot with a long lens - at least an 80mm, preferably a 105 or 135mm - again, that's IF distance allows.

 

2) If you can't move back... use a 4x5 camera - camera will allow you to control perspectives.

 

Regards.