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To Drag or not to Drag (the shutter of course!)


kari douma

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Kari--remember C Jo is using film. You can overexpose film--in fact, it's almost better to overexpose it slightly--and it will be fine, if not great. The flash is probably maxing out closer to your camera setting and not putting out f8 light in your living room. I suspect C Jo tells his flash to output more light than he is setting on his camera because he wants a good "dose" of flash on his subjects (on film). No harm in trying everything, but keep tabs on what is working for you.
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What Nadine says ... Negs are different ---Digital is closer related to E-6 film. Also if you took your meter and read the flash output > from bounce card to the slight kick-off of the ceiling and back to subject < should be just about 1+ stop short, of what your setting is on the flash. We use the SB 28 on our EOS cameras --So if you are set at F4.5 on your lens --just put your SB 800 on auto : dial in f 5.6 on the actual flash head, not the camera. Manual as possible > you control the exposure : not the Fuji. Should give you close to F4 with the sphere. We are bouncing more to the ceiling and filling with the card, so losing more watts, than your sphere. If the flash is properly set --it will help "freeze" that 1/15 dragging shot
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Have you tried using TTL rather than TTL BL. I got some rather strange results at a wedding I shot using TTL BL. Later I saw a post about TTL BL being good for balancing daylight with flash but terrible for indoor shots. The next week I shot a 50th anniversary party using vanilla TTL and got much better results. Needless to say that the 125 page manual for the SB800 doesn't say much about this.
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Thanks for the compliment Cjo, I'll try playing around with the 1 stop over and see what happens.

 

Don't worry Nadine, I'll use what I know first, then I'll do some experimenting. That is what is nice about the dancing... there is a lot of time to experiment and try new things after you have captured the standard.

 

John, I know I have tried Both TTL and TTL BL. The problem I have is after the fact I can't tell which is which. It doesn't say in PS or my Fuji softwear on the metadata. I need to try it and record my results. Will crocket says to always shoot on Aperture instead of TTL, because the results are inconsistant. Something to think about.

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KARI ...try using the strobe on strictly AUTO---you control the flash > not the camera. We use a Nikon strobe on our Canon camera..just because it is faster to control then the 580ez. You have 4 auto setups in the Nikon ...just dial in the one, for the appropriate light.
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not sure if anyone has mentioned rear curtan sync? as a genral rule, i go two stops below the focal length, a 50mm gives me 1/15, a 30th gives me an 1/8 and so forth with rear curtain sync. it largely depends on how many light bulbs are in the background as this can easily kill your movement shots with bright streaks across your subject.
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Cjo, I have not idea what you mean... 4 auto settings? Just dial in the one for the appropriate light?

 

Well, I went to the camera shop today and bought another pocket wizzard transeiver, and some cords to connect.... now I get to play. I'll probably have all kinds of questions coming up!

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