New user of Hasselblad 905 swc and problem with focusing

[dmitry_beliakov]

Hello, colleagues! I am a new user of Hass 905 swc, was expecting

supersharp images, but strangely found that ALL of my pics, taken

from close distance, closer than 1 meter are out of focus. As I don't

have yet trained eye, and it is hard for me to focus "by guessing",

may be one can give me a practical advise, how to GET sharp iamges

100 %? Should I shoot from f11 and smaller? Any other advises? I even

thought of smth exotic, like check distance by focusing any other

camera, which says it accurately, and then set the focusing ring on

905? I realize that my problem may sound silly to experiences users,

but forgive me, I only use this camera for less than a few days.

 

Dmitry

[frdchang]

are you measuring the distance correctly? there should be a marking on your film back or camera labeling the film plane.

 

otherwise, to get accurate focusing at such close distances you'll want to use a ground glass attachment for your 905.

[peter_white2]

For accurate close focusing you need the focusing screen and a magnifying hood. The screen takes the place of the film magazine, and attaches in exactly the same way. Then the magnifying hood slides onto the screen. After focusing you remove the screen and hood (they'll come off as a unit) and attach the film magazine. Obviously you only do this with the camera on a tripod. Then, prepare to be amazed at the image quality. ;-)

[peter_white2]

I should have added that it's virtually impossible to frame your photos correctly at close distances without the focusing screen. Parallax error is just too great with the external viewfinder for it to be useful at close distances.

[pawel1]

I agree with both responses. However, before going to the length described in these posts, are you certain that at the selected f stop, the depth of field of the subject is within the range denoted by the marks on the lens barrel? Or do you need to stop down? At close distances with my 905, I have not had focussing issues when using the scale on the lens barrel. It did, however, take some practice to get used to the parallax effect at close distances.

[nik4s]

As a swc user, you have to use the focusing screen adapter at those close distances particularly. Despite the slowness, once you look at your images, all will be forgotten, -hopefully.

[simonpg]

Dmitry, while I do not own a 903, I have used an SWC/M a lot. There are 3 points to keep in mind. Using these superwides is actually quite easy athough when you are used to normal TTL focusing one can get nervy. IMHO, this is the world's best lens and sharpness is NEVER an issue.

 

1. ALWAYS look down to the lens barrel to check focus range DOF after you have finally set up to shoot. Based on the f stop you selected and the distance you have focused the lens at, you will see the distance range in which the image will be sharp. It is fool proof - this is one hell of a camera (in all of its itterations). Play with it while watching TV - move both the aperture and focus rings and see how the DOF changes (distanced between the red DOF lines for the aperture set).

 

So if the range is not what you want i.e. the shortest distance or the longest distance in the DOF range is not short or long enough - 2 choices = change f stop to widen the range of focus or re-focus (as in hyperfocal distance).

 

2. This lens' OPTIMAL performance is between f5.6 and f8. From f11 diffraction takes place (theoretical issue only and it is hardly measurable anyway and if you need to stop down further for greater DOF, just do it). The lens is also optically a great performer wide open, but DOF is just a bit more limited.

 

3. The most RELIABLE way to set up and shoot is to a) decide the distance range (shortest and longest) you want sharp - a guess is good enough; b) set up and frame the shot you want to take; c) set the focus for a point about a 1/3rd of the way into the scene, or guess a specific distance for the subject that you must have critically sharp - for landscapes a mid point is fine, for a specific key subject in the overall composition guessing its distance is better for critical sharpness (also a bit theoretical); d) stand back and look at the lens barrel and set an f stop that the DOF indicators show will provide you shortest and longest distance are in focus - if say f5.6 is enough use f8 to be even more certain and have advantage of the lens' optimal performance. f) take the shot.

 

I repeat is is easy once you get comfortable - take test shots using different f stops to see the effect on prints (make notes for each frame).

 

I also repeat, this is one hell of a camera (I envy you). I have also used an SWC in the street hand held and every shot was amazingly sharp. But do be careful about camera angles and the angle of the film plane to the subject as (while this lens has NO distortion) you will create distortion of verticals at the edges (ok if that is the effect you want, but annoying if not).

 

The old C style lens barrel of SWC and SWC/M versions was great as it had the 2 moving red markers showing you changing DOF as you change the focus or aperture rings. The CF style lens barrel has clear painted red markers requiring you to "interpret" DOF based on the f stop.

 

Finally, remember that the viewfinder is only a framing guide.

 

I hope this helps.

 

PS: if you hate using it, I'll buy it from you!

[johnmarkpainter]

Dmitry,

 

If I am shooting closeup with an SWC, I usually just use a measuring Tape. Works every

time.

 

It is better to use a Ground Glass back if you have time, but I rarely bother with it..

 

jmp

[trixshooter]

Recently I was shooting stills for a documentary with my 905 SWC. We were on a cattle ranch shooting the crew castrating calves, administering antibiotics and vitamins as they were herded into the chute. The images produced with teh 905 were simply spectacular even though they were handheld. I shot as suggested about with DOF adjustments.

 

Take the time to practice and you will soon find using the camera second nature. You will be rewarded with rich and vibrant images with that 38mm perspective that many find so appealing.

[trixshooter]

I don't have a scanner so I had to shoot the print with a digital camera. Obviously the uploaded image does not show the extraordinary sharpness of the original sepia toned silver print, but I think you will get the idea.

 

Shot on the 905SWC, Tri-X, zone focussed.

 

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[rik_lowette]

hi Dmitry,I dont have (yet) a swc but I'm planning to buy one: in order to overcome the problem you mentioned I bought in advance an old voigtlander rangefinder distance meter (testings compared with the distance scale of my x-pan II match perfectly);there are two types,one in feet and one in meters:the one in meters begins at 1 and proceeds to 1.1,1.2,1.3,1.4,1.6,1.8,2,2.5,3,4,5,7,20,infinity; it's really small(length 6cm width 2cm height 1.5cm) and i'm planning to use it together with (already bought in advance) the voigtlander VC

light meter(metering angle comparable to a 90mm lens in 35mmsystems)

of course i could have used the distance meter and spot light meter

(extremely accurate)of my x-pan but in that case i should be obliged to take them both and since there is a center filter mounted and the metering is TTL, diafragma settings will have to be recalculated, so..