Mamiya RB-67s question

[robbie_caswell]

I was thinking of getting a medium format system that primarily

would be used for portraits/landscape. One camera I've narrowed it

down to, is the Mamiya RB67 Pro S version. I've spent an hour and

looked and looked and looked for specifics on whether the specific

RB67 pro S model has the bulb function.

 

If this camera doesn't fit the bill, I'm open to other choices...

 

I want the 6x7 or 6X6 format

I want bulb function for long exposures

I will hand meter the majority of all shots

I want to do portraits

I want to stay around $800 or less

[cb_martinez]

I believe the RB67 has B. To be sure, go to the website mamiya.com. Dowload the manual for the RB. It should answer you question definitely.

[robbie_caswell]

I could only find the RB67 Pro SD specifications. Not sure there is a major difference but can't find the answer to the "Pro S" version anywhere.

[disneyry]

It doesn't matter what body you have. And, the "bulb" setting is actually "T" which will be on the lens.

 

RB67 stuff is pretty cheap, for $800 you'll be able to buy everything you'll need.

 

I've only had mine for a couple of weeks, and I'm having a blast with it. I'm sure that people with more experience with them will be able to offer you more advice/insight.

 

-Ryan

[paul ron]

The RBs have a T setting which will open the lens when fired but not close it untill you recock it. This has caused some concern to newbies but once you get the hang of it, like putting the lens cap on then cocking it, you'll fall in love with this beast.

 

I've seen RB-Pro-S cameras going for $400 with a lens and a back. You'll probably have to do a seal job and perhaps a CLA on the lens but that is the price of buying a 30 year old camera. Once the work is done, you will be surprised at how many reliable years of service you'll get for the buck. THese cameras don't die of hard work, they die of bordom and lonelyness if left unused for long periods of time.

 

Try renting one if you want to feel how it handles? If you were in NYC I'd let you take mine out for a walk around the block.

[dave_moeller]

As others have stated, the bulb setting in handled by the lens, not the camera body, and all Mamiya RB lenses have it. (All Mamiya lenses have the shutter in the lens, and all shutter functions are controlled from the lens.) Mirror lock-up is handled by a combination of the lens and the body; you turn a knob on the lens, press the shutter button on the camera (which raises the mirror), then you fire the lens shutter using a cable release inserted into the knob on the lens. Not the simplest thing to describe, but very easy once you see how it's done on the camera.

 

I have an RB67 Pro-S. With a 90mm lens, waist level finder, and 120 back, mine came to $320. (Bargain condition from KEH.) Prices have gone up a few dollars since then, but you can still get an equivalent set for under $400. Mine worked fine right out of the package and I've been having a great time with it ever since.

 

About the only downside to the RB systems is the size of the cameras, but if that doesn't bother you then it's a fantastic system. The lenses are very good, 6x7 negatives enlarge with almost no cropping to 8x10/16x20, the mirror dampening is very effective, and the cameras just seem to keep on running forever.

 

(By the way, for less than the $800 you mention I've picked up the system I described, plus a 140mm macro lens and a Zone-VI modified Soligar spot meter. Medium format prices have gone through the floor; it's a great time to be a buyer.)

[websterforrest]

The RB67 is a great camera for landscape. It is also great for portrait - but whether you'll

like it for portraits is up to you, as there is a much longer shutter delay on the RB than on

the Hasselblad. Hook both up to a flash and you'll see it very clearly: the Blad trips the

flash the tiniest instant after you press the shutter release, with the Mamiya it's noticeably

longer. This may bother you if you are compulsive about 'decisive moment' stuff - if you

are, I'd suggest a TLR such as Rolleiflex or Mamiya C330 if you are interested in MF film.

Or a Hasselblad if you are semi-obsessive. Assuming you are not completely obsessive

about 'decisive moment'...

 

Like the Hasselblad, the RB67 optics had verious versions. The only lenses you'd really

want to get for the RB are the K/L lenses. It's not that the older ones are bad, but the K/L

lenses are AMAZINGly good, and very very cheap now second-hand, and their optical and

mechanical quality is second to none (i.e. Zeiss is not 'better'). Current Hasselblad and

current RB67 lenses are both incredible, though the characteristics are not 'identical'.

 

The older hasselblad lenses (pre CF of any kind) on an older Hasselblad body compare

disfavourably to the modern K/L optics on an RB67. I own both, and have shot a great deal

with both systems, and I really have to say, the difference is definitely in favour of the K/L

lenses compared to the older Hasselblad ones. If you are talking about the older Mamiya

'C' lenses, then it gets a bit like apples and oranges. If you are talking about current

optics, both are on the same level.

 

The time exposure on the Mamiya is more versatile than on the Hasselblad. It is also less

convenient. Both systems are easy enough to use. personally I think the Hasselblad is

quicker in this respect. I wouldn't consider this to be a deciding factor in which system to

buy.

 

You may not like having to carry the RB67 everywhere (a backpack camera bag, rather than

shoulder strap model is a very good idea), especially if you do get the K/L lenses - as they

are heavier than the C lenses by a fair margin. There is a 127mm K/L lens for sale right

now on eWhatsit (being sold by a very respectable US seller - shutterblade.com) so this

may be a good chance.

 

The RB67 really is huge compared to the Hasselblad, but like for like you're going to get

more for your money with the Mamiya. The Hasselblad is a very expensive system to build

up. You can get a three-lens kit for RB67 with new optics that rival any that have ever

been on Hasselblad, all for a fraction of what you'll pay for the same three lens kit in an

OLDER generation Hasselblad, to say nothing of the price of more contemporary

equipment (i.e. CF or later) lenses for Hasselblad. The cost to you, is size and weight.

 

One more thing - if you do end up with a Hasselblad with an older (pre CF) lens, and this

is something you may not be aware of, but a lens shade (get the Hasselblad original ones

that are square) will reduce flare in photographs - EVEN WHEN NO FLARE IS VISIBLE on the

focusing screen. The problem with the lenses where the element is right at the front is

that a lot of light gets into the inside of the camera at very oblique angles that may not

directly hit the film plane, but which bounce around off everything in the open chamber

betwen lens and film. This causes overexposure of your shadow areas (dark areas in the

picture are made lighter by the stray glow of reflected light inside the camera), thus

reducing contrast, sometimes alarmingly - even if you didn't see any flare when you took

the picture. The newer Hasselblad bodies are better at absorbing some of this stray light,

but the only way really to control it is with a lens hood built specifically for the lens in

question. You'd never think it to look through the viewfinder, but I've seen it time and time

and time again. The newer lenses have the front element farther receeded into the barrel,

so this isn't such a problem. The RB67 tends not to suffer from this so much.

 

If I've gone on about the lens shade so much, it's because you mention you want to do

landscape. It's outdoors that you get the kind of 'surprise' flare I'm talking about.

 

I hope this helps!

[robbie_caswell]

Thank you so much! This will help me decide, and has given me things to ponder. The used combo Pro-s versions I saw at Keh all had C lenses.

 

I haven't made a final choice as of yet... but I'm close and this will help.

[douglas_green1]

Might I suggest that you look at the RZ-67? It is noticeably lighter, and hence more portable than the RB-67 Pro-S, and good bodies can be gotten for $300-400 used. Also, since you've been (wisely, IMHO) steered toward the newer Mamiya optics, the availability of Z-series lenses at good prices 2nd hand is somewhat better than the optically similar (usually identical) K/L lenses.

In particular, the 110mm Z lens is a fine portrait lens and spectacular performer in general that can be gotten quite cheaply nowadays.

[mark liddell]

Has anyone actually tested the KL lenses vs the C lenses (ther than the 50mm)? I ask since I'm a broke student so could only afford the C 90mm and 180mm since the price difference is huge. But I'm wondering in teh future (when I get some cash!) if it's worth replacing them with the KL versions.

 

There is all sorts of conflicting info on the net on this subject.

[tree]

The other answers in this thread cover your questions, but I want to add a voice of support for the RB67 Pro S. I love this beast. Its a wonderful camera, though be prepared for some sore muscles if you go out in the field with it: I just got back from a weekend in upper Maine where I was carrying my RB around on its (non-carbon fiber) tripod and beefy ball head and my shoulder is killing me. But I really don' think you can go wrong with this, especially for the price.

 

The revolving back is really nice when doing landscape work: you can take vertical and horizontal shots without changing the tripod position, which can be really useful.

 

Another tip: if you plan on using the mirror up function, make sure you have at least one cable release, though two are recommended. Mamiya makes a single release that triggers the mirror and the shutter in succession, but two regular cloth-covered cable releases work just as well I find.

 

Enjoy.

[jun_cao]

I recently upgraded to 4x5, if you are intereted in my RB67 Pro S system, drop me an

email.

I second that RB pro s is better than RZ for its value/cost.