A reflective product photo challenge

[johnmarkpainter]

This is interesting (to me anyway). I am shooting some shiny microphones that have

different colored LED's inside that need to show up.

 

I generally don't like the totally smooth Light-Tent look. It makes things look plastic to

me. I set up White Foamcore on each side and in front under the lense. Black Foamcore a

bit farther back to give a nice black rim around the body.

 

A Softbox above left and an umbrella above and right and two background lights (white

paper background).

 

I did a 1-2 second exposure for the LED.

 

I don't love the shadow from the mounting bracket on the right side of the body but

couldn't get rid of it unless I did flatter front lighting (it isn't that big of a deal though).

 

Any ideas on how to light this differently? The client specified white background.

I normally just shoot people but I am always trying to learn new things.

 

Thanks,

john<div></div>

[johnmarkpainter]

THis is a shot without the front reflector<div></div>

[phoneguy]

The first one looks better. The only thing I can think of is to try some tape on the back grill, so the background light doesn't come through the mike. It might increase the intensity of the L.E.D.

 

Mike

[garry edwards]

John,

 

Just a couple of minor suggestions, because I think you've done a pretty good job here. You've defined the edges well

 

1. The vertical 'dark centre' looks fine on the mike body but not on the mesh bit - I wonder whether a more frontal light, which would get rid of the 'stripe' would be better - you could then re-introduce it on the body with a piece of black card immediately in front of the light - the same effect as you have now except of course that your black card will only cove the lower part of the light.

 

2. The intensity of the LED can be controlled by the length of the exposure, unless of course it changes colour every period of time.

 

3. Personally I'd back tape the mike to stop the background light passing through the mesh.

 

4. I'd try a high (maybe a very high) camera position to show the top better - or you could just tilt the mike forward to get a similar effect, the advantage of this is that it seems to me that the wire doesn't have enough clearance and looks clumsy, this would fix that problem.

 

5. If it's OK with the client I would remove the label from the stand

 

6. I'd also do an alternative shot against a dark grey/black background with a complementary background spot (maybe red) the emphasise the contrast with the blue LED.

[johnmarkpainter]

Thanks for the tips and ideas.

 

I had experimented with a longer exposure to bring up the LED but it started to get kind of

Flarish. It also starts to make the background go red (tape on the back would have helped

that).

 

I had shot some of the other models with tape on the backs (they were of a different

design) and it didn't change the look at all...that made me forget about it when I shot

THIS one (where it would have made a difference).

 

RE: Front lighting I was having a hard time keeping the glare down. The NEXT time I do

this it will be much easier.

 

THANKS!!

[j_sew]

Hi John,

I know what you mean about the Light tent look, but there are many approaches you can use to achieve a much more polished look. #1, You can use a much longer lens with larger reflectors. Reflectors that extend to the lense. This actually will extend your highlight on both sides and with some controlled feathering of light, you can gradated the light on the two reflectors. The other way around this is to paint with light. Using Neutral density filters and tungsten studio lights, set up exposures of up to 2-3 minutes. During this exposure vibrate your reflectors or shift your reflectors constantly and you will get some extremely smooth tones on your microphone. For the black relfection off the bracket, line the inside of the bracket with white paint or tape. This will make it disappear. To enhance your LED, cut a piece of black velvet and place it over the mesh of the microphone for your main exposure. This velvet needs to be very accurate. Remove the black velvet then expose for the LED's

[neil_grant]

nice photo, but another of your lighting set-up would be good as well - I know you

described it but... a picture is worth etc

[johnmarkpainter]

J

 

Good tips...I'll give it a try next time

 

Thanks