Sunpak 622 for cheap in-home studio?

[kyle_opitz]

I would like to set up a cheap in-home studio using two Sunpak 622

flashes for my Key and Fill lights. I want to bounce the light off two 45�

white reflective umbrellas for portraits, stills, and a variety of in studio and

maybe on location shoots. I know the Sunpak 622 is a powerful flash, (GN 160�?)

but would it be powerful enough to be bounced off an umbrella at a low ISO (ISO

25, 50,100) at a variety of F Stops?

 

Also, I was wondering if anyone knows of a better alternative to the 622, a

flash that might be better for the job? Or if anyone has any information on the

Sunpak 611, 555, or 455 models? Ideally I would need a powerful flash that can

use AC power, (and or batteries), and has a standard PC connection to attach to

my camera. Any information would be greatly appreciated.

[brooks short]

Wouldn't it be nice to have modeling lights so that you can see what the light actually looks like on your subject?

[Gary Naka]

If you have it already, OK.

If you don't aready have it, other units might be better for the following reasons:

 

- modeling lights. As was mentioned, it would be nice to see how the lighting appears on the subject.

 

- stand mounting. How are you planning to mount/hold the Sunpak? At the same time how are you going to position it, such as being able to aim it into an umbrella?

 

re power, you're asking a lot, low speed film and variety of F-stops. How wide a range of apertures did you have in mind?

 

How about the Alien Bees line of studio strobes. I think you can buy a 2 flash kit (strobe, stands, umbrella) for about what 2 Sunpak 622s will cost, maybe less.

[kyle_opitz]

Yeah you guys are right, I had a feeling I was going to have to bite the bullet and go with a real strobe setup, and a big reason being the benefits of a modeling light and fast flash recharge times. I have briefly glanced at the Aliens bees site once before but figured that kind of equipment would be out of my price range. I am going to go back and give them a second look.

Any tips on the units, 400 vs 800 vs 1600? Is bigger really better? I�m new to all this stuff, but for portraits, what is the difference between using a softbox and using a white reflective umbrella? Thanks a lot.

[brooks short]

Kyle,

 

Check out the Lighting Themes that are archived in the Administration section of this lighting forum.

[kyle_opitz]

Thank you so much!

[david_beal___richmond_hts.]

Buy as much light as you can afford. You can always dial excess power down; you can't dial insufficient power up.

 

In all your recitation, I didn't see a flash meter mentioned. You need one.

 

Good shooting.

 

/s/ David Beal**Memories Preserved Photography

[kyle_opitz]

Yes, I had been saving up for a flash meter, then people around me started suggesting I spend the money else where because I could always check exposure digitally. I kinda new that I would still need a good flashmeter but I don�t have a ton of money to spend. I was looking to get a Sekonic L-558 Dualmaster so I could have an all-in-one meter, but found a better way to spend $500+.

[Gary Naka]

Kyle

The reason you will need a meter is to check lighting ratios.

You could simply use the power adjustment on the strobe or change teh distance to subject to adjust the light levels and you would be close. BUT if you use a umbrella like you said you want to, then you NEED the flash meter...or a good eye to evaluate the image on a monitor.

 

BTW your post has inspired me. I have 2 old Sunpak 611s that I want to set up to try some home studio shooting. Since I already have the strobes that cost is already done. But as I had mentioned, if the cost to adapt/use the Sunpaks goes too high, then it will be more cost effective to just get an Alien Bee setup.

[martyrphoto]

I recently put together a portable lighting kit using a Sunpak 333 and a Vivitar 3500 (been

thinking about buying two new Sunpak 383's for the sake of consitency). I've recently been

wondering about how to get some kind of a model light on this rig and think I might have

a good idea. Are there battery powered halogen clip-on lights that would be able to

bounce light off the umbrella and still have enough power to reach the subject? It wouldn't

have to be a full beam of light, just enough to cast a shadow and give you an idea of

where the light's going to fall.

[Gary Naka]

Marty

 

I think that a battery lamp will also depend on the umbrella, white or silver? The silver will need less light. But the other thing is for a low level light to work, you need a dark/dim room, or the ambient light will mask the shadows cast by your lamp.

 

I have not been able to figure it out either, so I'm just using the small LCD on the back of the camera, until I can view it on the computer. A live link to a computer is best, if your camera has the sw to do it.

 

But that is the cost of using a low cost flash w/o a modeling light.

 

The lack of a modeling light is more critical in classical lighting where you are moving the lights to get specific shadows. A white umbrella up close is a softer light that is more forgiving of my amateur bumbling placement.

 

In a way, that is tempting me to get a hot lamp to learn with. So I can see and study the shadow as I'm working rather than after the shot.

 

Gary