pablo ledesma Posted May 4, 2005 Share Posted May 4, 2005 So I was kicking around this idea of getting a Nikkormat Ft or Ftn and using it as a dedicated body for a Cosina/Voigt 15mm f4.5, the one which needs a mirror lock up body. I would get a body that was beat up, but mechanically sound. Then strip the paint and the leather, after some very minor disassembly, then repaint and apply new leather. I was thinking semi gloss black or dark grey. I was wondering what you guys thought about it? I was thinking that the Ft or Ftn would be the easiest to disassemble and get back together; does anybody have any experience with removing the top plate? Any ideas or hints that would help me avoid pitfalls? Or even variant ideas, different bodies or lenses. I really dig the white film counter on the black body and the external exposure meter, but I guess that would be useless because the meters in the finder right? If I pull this off the result should look pretty retro. Thanks in advance for all feedback. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vivek iyer Posted May 4, 2005 Share Posted May 4, 2005 I have a simpler/cheaper suggestion. Get the 15/4.5 in screw mount and the Bessa-L ($69). I have this combo. It is light weight, compact and works well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vivek iyer Posted May 4, 2005 Share Posted May 4, 2005 I forgot to add that the Bessa-L will do TTL metering with the 15mm mounted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wilfred_wong Posted May 4, 2005 Share Posted May 4, 2005 i think Voigt 've a SLR camera now. if i want to use Voigt lens, i'd get a bessa. SLR with no viewfinder but rangerfinder? why not use a rangefinder camera? they'r smaller, and the lens are cheaper (Voigt lens in F mount are more expensive). bessa body are cheap.. i'd get one instead of getting a nikon and modify it. you get metering as well. if you really want to use Nikon...why not get a F2? I think it has MLU. maybe i can check it out tonight... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pnance Posted May 4, 2005 Share Posted May 4, 2005 The screw mount versions of the 12mm and 15mm do not have rangefinder cams, but depth of field is so great its hardly necessary. I've used the Nikon mount version of the 15mm on a F, F2 and the Nikkormat FTN. Works great. Can't comment of the repaint, my Nikkormat isn't a beater. I don't think they don't make a version of this lens to fit a Cosina SLR, which is why the screw mount works so well on the Bessa-L, no rangefinder, but no rangefinder cam on the lens anyway! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pablo ledesma Posted May 5, 2005 Author Share Posted May 5, 2005 I have had this debate with myself before; why get a Spotmatic when you could get a Cosina/Voigt Bessaflex TM in m42 thread mount, or why get the Nikkormat plus a 12 or 15mm when you could get the Bessa L with a similar lens. I did this once already; I got a Bessa R and a 35mm, 50mm and 90mm lens instead of a Leica, which is way over my budget. And really along with my FM3a and 20-35mm zoom I really need no other 35mm gear at all. What I think would be cool is the project. Plus a Nikkormat made in the 70?s which is still working must be worth giving a new life. Anyway, it?s either this or a D70s?.hehehehe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vivek iyer Posted May 5, 2005 Share Posted May 5, 2005 I think you have no idea about the ultrawides or the superwide lenses. Why do need any rangefinder cam and mirror viewing? At f/11, the DOF from the 15mm lens is so high so that everything from 30cm to infinity is sharp. You use hyperfocals for such lenses. All you need to worry about is the composition. If I manage to scan some of my negatives I will post some samples. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lex_jenkins Posted May 5, 2005 Share Posted May 5, 2005 I don't know which would be easier to disassemble but metal parts can be blackened with a spray-and-bake finish called Gun Kote. www.kgcoatings.com/gunkote.html It's available from various sources, including gun shops, sporting goods stores and via mail order from Brownell's. I've used it to refinish cast zinc airguns and steel parts. It's very durable and resists wear or chipping when applied carefully. The metal surface must be completely degreased - Birchwood Casey Gun Scrubber is excellent for this. The baking temperature is not very hot so it should be safe for brass top and bottom plates without risk of warping. Check the instructions, tho'. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neil_parker Posted May 5, 2005 Share Posted May 5, 2005 The chrome plating has to be removed first by chemicals or sanding/sandblasting or the paint won't stick. If you have a Bessa R, why not mount it on that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
douglas_green1 Posted May 5, 2005 Share Posted May 5, 2005 The best approach by far is a dedicated Bessa L body for $65-75. I have one, and my 15mm Cosina has never been removed from it. The TTL metering and external viewfinder work well, and are, IMHO, a much better solution than an SLR finder that blackens and a 35+ year old and no longer reliable meter. And with the external finder, it will look more retro than any SLR system. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cgarrett Posted May 5, 2005 Share Posted May 5, 2005 removing an FTn top plate is pretty simple, I replaced mine with the top from a junked body when it got dented. You really only need some eyeglass screwdrivers, a clean workbench (harder to lose the little screws), and a soldering iron if you want to keep the flash sync intact. It takes some care to do it properly without scratching the camera up, but I did not find it difficult, and I did it without any prior experience. It was nice to have a bench grinder nearby when I took my FTn apart, because there are a couple screws that require special screwdrivers with notches in them and such that I didn't have access to, but was able to McGiver them out of an x-acto knife with an old blade on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reuben_c Posted May 8, 2005 Share Posted May 8, 2005 Tip: use a rubber block rather than a spanner wrench for those "two-hole" screws. No matter how careful you are with a spanner, there will be visible marks on/in the holes. A rubber block will supply sufficient friction to unscrew them (advance lever cap, selftimer cap) without marring them. Sometimes I think the designers put those holes there so that they could tell if anyone had gotten inside the cameras. Seriously. Same deal with the rings in front of the lens. 99% of the time you will be able to remove them with a rubber block (cut out so the front element clears the rubber). The other 1% of the time, you'll leave marks in the two slots in the ring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pablo ledesma Posted May 8, 2005 Author Share Posted May 8, 2005 Thanks for the suggestions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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