Rob F. Posted June 4, 2006 Share Posted June 4, 2006 Yeah, I know, "Put it in a box and send it to Don/John/Sherry." I'll do that when I get a round tuit. But here's my point: I think it was all the removing & refitting of the lens hood that caused the front section to loosen up. This hood has a fiddly locking ring that you twist to secure the hood. It takes a bit of fiddling to lock & unlock it. I'm guessing that all that torsional force, over time, loosened it. So has anyone else had this experience, & suspected the hood? If so, what have you done about it? What do you think about using a plain generic screw-in hood instead? I can't prove the hood caused it. I had the same problem with my 11817 Summicron, the hood for which doesn't require any fiddling and twisting. But that's what I suspect. Anyone? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eliot_rosen1 Posted June 4, 2006 Share Posted June 4, 2006 Rob, the hood should not torgue the front section of the lens in normal usage. The only way it could do that is if you grasp the hood rather then the body of the lens in order to twist the lens on and off the camera. But its moot now. If the front section is loose, it's not a DIY repair. You need to send the lens to an expert or to Leica USA. The good news is that it's not a difficult fix for this problem. And yes, I do know that older lenses had threads rather than adhesive holding the sections together, so this sort of thing would not have been possible in the early lenses, but that's life. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Blackwell Images Posted June 4, 2006 Share Posted June 4, 2006 Love the lens; hate the shade. I replaced mine with a 12451 shade (for the current 28mm) lenses ヨ IMHO, it's much better.<div></div> “When you come to a fork in the road, take it ...” – Yogi Berra Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stuart_richardson Posted June 4, 2006 Share Posted June 4, 2006 I am just curious, why are you taking off the shade? Do you use a lot of filters? I rarely take the shade off of mine. Actually, I love the shade and the cap for it, but to each their own. Perhaps yours was too tight? Mine comes off and on fairly easily. You are pressing in the little release buttons on the side when you pull it on and off right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rgh Posted June 4, 2006 Share Posted June 4, 2006 I haven't ever heard of this happening with the 35 ASPH but have wondered for some time if the new line of lenses had the glue instead of the screwed parts. An easy fix, but the the time to send it in... This has occasionally happened with some users of the 4th version 35 Summicron, but after some years of use and travel ( and not delicate handling ) never to me. The problem may have started with the redesigned 'boxed' hoods that encourage the user to grip the hood and not the lens body to take the lens on and off. I'm not so sure even the internal screw design could hold up to that and would cause even more real damage. Round hoods although not as effective for blocking stray light don't let the user use them as convenient lens mounting grips. Back to the 35 ASPH... never liked the hood from the start, broke my first one on the first day out ( those stupid side tabs) and the locking system is a pain. Screw in hoods are OK, but can also cause damage to the threads if you give it a good whack. So I'm doing two things lately, one is as Bill above, the clip on 12547 28mm hood style is what the original 35 Aspheriacal Summilux used and is well designed, easy on and off, nice clip in front cap ( that stays on in your bag! ) and does the job of blocking stray side light and protection well. I'm also going hood-less with this lens for the first time ( usually a diehard 'hooder' ) and with an B+W MRC filter can't say its causing any noticeable problems (still keeping an eye on things). And back to the front lens coming apart... I'm surprised about the 50mm 11817 you mention. The front lens element section part of this lens does unscrew [as designed to] and comes apart from the focus mount for visoflex/enlarger use. But under normal use this just don't happen with the original round IROOA or 12585 hoods. A really great classic Leitz lens BTW as you know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ronald_moravec1 Posted June 5, 2006 Share Posted June 5, 2006 You are lucky it is not crooked when in place. Shane for a lens that expensive. I never take my square shades off. Just made a cover from heavy material and elastic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john_graham3 Posted June 5, 2006 Share Posted June 5, 2006 "You need to send the lens to an expert or to Leica USA." Hehe. Good rabbit punch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob F. Posted June 5, 2006 Author Share Posted June 5, 2006 Stuart: I take the hood off only to change filters. Robert: I think you have the 11817 confused with the Dual Range/Rigid Summicrons. Those are the ones that unscrew. They will not however focus to infinity on the Visoflex. I'm thinking of sending it to John Van Stelten, as he has an optical bench so he can check the alignment after repairing it. I'm not sure if Sherry or DAG have this. Anyone know? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rgh Posted June 5, 2006 Share Posted June 5, 2006 Hi Rob, About the 11817 50mm Summicron, second rigid formula, or '69' as it was introduced in 1969... Not that many people did it but the front optical unit part of this lens does unscrew just as the earlier first rigid and DR lenses to use in an enlarger and with bellows for really close focus. Its designed is better corrected than that lens in the close-up range. The next Summicron with the tab 11819, and the present 11826 with the built in hood do not have this feature. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob F. Posted June 5, 2006 Author Share Posted June 5, 2006 Hmm, first I've heard of it. Maybe some time I'll try it, but I'm afraid I might loosen it up again in the process. They don't build them like they used to, you know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill_schneider1 Posted June 5, 2006 Share Posted June 5, 2006 Robert stated: >> Not that many people did it but the front optical unit part of >>this lens does unscrew just as the earlier first rigid and DR >>lenses ...The next Summicron with the tab 11819, and the present >>11826 with the built in hood do not have this feature. Maybe you didn't twist hard enough. My tabbed 11819 cron certain has a threaded optical unit that separates from the focusing mount. Here are some pictures of it unscrewed:<div></div> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill_schneider1 Posted June 5, 2006 Share Posted June 5, 2006 And another...<div></div> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill_schneider1 Posted June 5, 2006 Share Posted June 5, 2006 And how the rear element looks after removal from the focusing mount... BTW, the commonly loose v4 35mm Cron front is just one part of the optical unit, and can be fixed by removing the bayonet mount at the rear of the lens, removing the brass plate beneath that, and finding the retaining ring that secures the front assembly. Maybe I'll post a pictorial "how-to" someday when I run across another loose one. It's fairly simple to fix. Don't know about the Lux though. Bill Schneider<div></div> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wai_leong_lee Posted June 8, 2006 Share Posted June 8, 2006 It happens. Get it fixed. Move on. It happened to mine recently. I sent it to DAG. Don said he's seen more lenses coming in with the same problem, and not just 35/1.4 ASPH's. To quote him: "In most cases these lenses get loose from vibration for moving vehicles (if so need to wrap lens in towel) or Leica never tightened these parts tight enough. Since I've had a lot of these lenses come in for the same problem it's more likely that Leica did not tighten some of the parts in your lens as tight as they should have." Cost $50 for the repair. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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