FE2 ; FM3a

[thomson_chan]

Dear all,

 

I recently fall in love with FE2, because of the TTL ability in a

nikon MF, and its appearance. But after seeing the FM3a, I found

that they have very similar spec, e.g. quickest sync at 250, TTL, etc.

 

What I want to know is what are the difference in terms of

specification and performance between FE2 and FM3a. Except FM is

fully mechanic and has DX. Which is more popular? Which is better to

use?

 

Cheers,

Thomson

[larry n.]

here's one difference: FM3a has more advanced TTL

[ShunCheung]

The main advantage of the FM3a is that it is currently in production. FE2's can vary from roughly 10 to 20 years old and may have gone thru a lot of abuse; therefore, you need to be more selective when you buy a used FE2, but you can get one for a lot cheaper.

 

Some people will suggest that no dependency of battery is an advantage of the FM3a, but when I use film, I always carry extra batteries as well as film so that I don't run out.

[Jerry_]

If you ever need to repair the FE2 body, it has not been manufactured for at least the past 12 years (or longer.) The FM3A is in current production, any repair should be fairly quick (if the camera breaks down....) Plus if you purchase a new FM3A body, it has a warranty: the FE2 body is on you for any fixing.

 

 

 

 

 

It would depend on what you expect from either camera body.

[plasma181]

I own the FM3a and haven't had any problems with it. It's 15 months old and still has the original batteries. Yes, I'd like a spot meter; yes, I'd like the aperture priority to work with a flash attached; yes, I'd like the AE lock to work easier. But what this instrument does, it does very well.

[jay_miao1]

It is very simply to distinguish the BIG difference between FM3A and FE2, the mechanical shutter system which is built in at all speeds on FM3A while FE2 has only M250 instead, that is a BIG advantage! In another word, FM3A is indeed two cameras in one as to FE2 and FM2n, so that the cost of FM3A in new is and should be more than the FE2 in new along 20 years back, and it worth it. Don't you think so?!

 

A bit side story with my F100 the other day when I tried to shoot people in front of me, guess what, the batteries dead and I missed the shots and hard to get back to the same spot and situation again. At the moment I just simply wished if I had my FE in hands! Just a FE, not even FE2 or F3, F4, or F6.

 

Anyway, if I had the budget and am willing to acquire another new film body today, the FM3A be it.

[david_m]

The FM3a may be two cameras in one, but for the same price as a new FM3a, you could buy a good used FM2 and a FE2 and have the advantages of both. You could also have a roll of color film in one and black and white in the other. Try doing that with the 'two-cameras-in-one' FM3a.

[jay_miao1]

When we talking about hanging out such as travel and street candid casual photo shooting, most of times you'd take one camera only, or take a higher class or fully automatic modern body as primary while a FM/FE series or so as backup, end up the FM3A would be a very mutual one to carry most of time in case of any electronics related events failure occurring, therefore, the two-in-one FM3A would be the best choice, wouldn't it?!

 

On the other hand as you referred to have both used FE2 and FM2(n) instead, what if the FE2's battery dead in case that you load a valuable slide or b/w film inside while the FM2 holds a regular film or so, and the moment you'd shoot with your FE2, are you going to swap the films btw the two bodies even the time allowed?

[thomson_chan]

Dear all,

 

Thanks for the above answers, but summarising the above, FM3a has a newer TTL system; FM3a is more expensive but will save the day by not relaying on battery.

 

But how about differences in the spec? e.g. clearness of the view finder, the coverage percentage of the view finder, ergonomic of the AE-L switch? What are the difference and which is more beneficial?

 

Cheers,

Thomson

[william_john_smith]

35 years old and still going<div></div>

[gv]

I can certainly relate William Smith's street photography outfit. After using autofocus

cameras and zooms since 1995 I have switched back to an FM2n I purchased new in 1982

and an FT2 purchased at a garage sale for around $150 for street/travel pics. When it

wasn't being used (a roll here and there...) the FT2 was stored in a safe and it looks it! A

small Sekonic digital meter rounds-out the basic kit. Kodak 100 slide in the FM2 and Fuji

800 print in the FT2 and it all fits nicely (and lightly) in one of those back-saver packs that

doesn't look like a camera bag.

[bruce_rubenstein___nyc]

The FE2 went out of production in 1989, so you the newest one you can find is 15 years old. However, about the only thing that would have to be done to a used FE2 is replace the mirror foam and film back seals.

 

I have a FE2 and FM3a. The specs are very similar. Aside from the FM3a being able to function without battereies, the only significant differences are: the FM3a has DX code reading capability (so you don't have to set the film speed), the AE lock button is on the back of the camera, there is a button on the side of the lens mount for fill flash (it reduces the flash output by 1 stop) and on the FE2 you can manually set the shutter speeds down to 8 sec rather than 1. Subtle differences are that the shutter speed dial has heavier dedents (like the FM2), the FM3a is a little smoother and quieter than the FE2 and the apeture numbers in the viewfinder apear larger in the FE2. I don't notice any difference in the brightness of the viewfinders.

[gv]

Can someone compare the noise level of an FM3 to an FM2? The mirror-slap of my FM2 is

the noisiest Nikon I have heard...

[ShunCheung]

Two things to keep in mind: if you don't bring spare batteries for your cameras, it is the same as not bringing sufficient film or memory cards; it is always your fault. Don't blame it on the camera.

 

Unless the camera has a feedback on the detected DX film speed, I wouldn't depend on it because it can be wrong. It happened to my F4 with a roll of Kodakchrome 64. Fortunately, it detected it as ISO 4000 (shown on the expternal SB-24 flash) and the error was obvious because it was off by over 6 stops. Had it been off by only a stop or two, it would have been easy to miss.

[melvin_bramley]

There is really no difference in performance.The parts situation "could" be an issue down the road.The only thing "I" do not like about the FM3 is the pointy!! top of the camera; which is sure to take a ding!just like the old original Nikon F.BTW I took my FE for an outing today with a 55 Micro; a lovley combination.

[Uhooru]

The main diff as said is the newer camera has all mech speeds back-up which is pretty nice. But the FE2 has one of the finest camera shutters ever made, the Nikon Titanium shutter. Parts don't seem to be a problem. If I didn't have an FE2 and I was buying a manual SLR, I'd for sure get the FM3a. But I luv the FE2 for those rare times I shoot an SLR, though I'd probably refer a tighter metering pattern than the 60/40 averaging meter.