Mamiya c330 questions

[red_jenny]

Just a few of questions regarding a recently acquired Mamiya C330 TLR:

 

1- What's the difference between the various models -- Professional,

Professional F, Professional S, etc.?

 

2- How does the paralax indicator know what size lens you've got

attached -- I assume this makes a difference in the paralax indicator

movement

 

3- On my camera, when place the Single-Multi switch to Single, the

shutter button won't work. I think this is true whether or not there

is film in the camera. When set on multi, of course the shutter works

and I can advance the film to the next frame. I havent' tried

multiple exposure.

 

4- What's up with the lock-unlock knob? I guess when you're changing

lenses when the camera has film in it, you're supposed to swith to

unlock. Then, the little panel comes up inside an block the light

from the film -- but what are you "unlocking"?? And how many films

have been ruined because someone forgot to do that before changing

lenses? It seems like a design flaw to me -- there should be a

mechanism to ensure that you CAN'T change lens UNLESS you first

unlock.

 

5- What about the blue ring around the lock-unlock knob? I can't

understand what all that is about -- just to help you remember what

ASA film you have? What else?

 

6- What's the must-have accessories? I have the 180 Super lens, the

65mm lens and the 80mm lens. I want to have the Orange-yellow lens

filters (46mm for the 65mm lens? 49mm for the 180?) but will they

take standard filters? I have read that the lens hood is also

necessary. Does each lens have its own hood?

 

7- How can I find the approximate age of the camera/lenses? Is there

a serial no. list for the camera?

 

8- What tripod/head is recommended?

 

9- Flash?

 

Sharing any other info you have on this camera well earn great karma

points with me. I'm looking for good ideas for cases and straps too...

 

Cheers all and TGIF

[terry_stedman]

First, check out this <a href="http://www.btinternet.com/~g.a.patterson/mfaq/m_faq-contents.html">web page</a>, it has all the information you could want.

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point by point:

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1) check out the website, you'll get all the info you'll ever want there

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2) dunno. I suggest just not shooting anything that close without a paralax corrector, which attaches to a tripod.

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3) You have to trick the camera into thinking there's film in it (Or actually shoot a test roll, which I encourage you to do to make sure your lenses are all right).

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4) Its not obvious, but the lock/unlock DOES lock and unlock the lens into place. Try locking it and taking the lens off. You'll find that the support bar holding in the lens across the top of the camera is restricted by a little latch. That is, if its not broken. I have two TLRs, one of them has a broken latch and the other works fine. Obviously, the only problem if it's broken is that the safe guard doesn't work; it doesn't effect the camera's performance otherwise.

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5) yes, its just to remind you about the ISO speed of the film. I think its there because there's no little box for you to put the tab from the film box with the ISO number on it anywhere on the back (if you have no idea what I'm talking about, then... well, don't worry, just ignore the ISO dial, you're not missing anything new)

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6) Check out the website, it has all the info you could want on accessories. May I remind you that <a href="http://keh.com/hmpg/index.cfm">KEH</a> usually has the best deals on Mamiya TLR equipment aside from you-know-who.

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7) Check the website.

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8) Anything that's not cheap. The TLR is heavier than many modern 35mm SLRs, you're not going to be able to get away with plastic tripods. But, anything decent and rated at, say, 5 pounds, is probably fine. I've used a C220f on a Bogen/Manfrotto 3265 quick action ballhead and it worked fine (its rated at 5.6 pounds). Spend real money on a tripod if you're planning on using one, it's well worth it and you get what you pay for.

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9) You need a PC sync cord, and either a flash that has a PC sync input or a PC sync to hotshoe adapter. Make sure the little switch on all your lenses is at X instead of M - M is for bulb flashes, X is for those new fangled electronic ones.

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As for straps, some models of the TLRs had little knobs on the sides of the camera instead of the more standard strap hook things. Those knobs require lugs. You can get them at KEH or other places; I started a thread on that subject maybe a year ago if you find yourself with the problem of not knowing what to do with the knobs, you can find it in the archives.

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Enjoy your camera, it's a great machine.

[raczoliver]

I think a metered prism is available for the C330 as an optional accessory, and the blue ring might also set the ISO film speed for the meter if the prism is attached. I do not have a C330 though, so I'm not sure.

[mag_miksch]

The most important difference between the 3 variations of C330 is the viewfinder, C330 has the old type, which isnt completly enclosed, f can have older or newer and s has the new, enclosed type. This seems not to be important, but I found it a great advantage to have the new one, otherwise your face can mirror in the screen. Dont look for a metered prisma, ita heavy and makes the camera headweight, so its difficult to opereate handheld. Beside this, the image in the prosm finder is darker, BTW, the screen of the s is brighter than on the other ones. I never use a tripod, its very good handheld, the parallaxe correction you adjust on the knob where the lock-unlock is placed. You can only change lenses when the bellows is completly in, to change without proper setting of the unlock may damage the camera. Use a lenshood, lenses tend to flare. Have fun.

[frank_kimble]

2. It doesn't matter how long the lens is on the camera, it's how far apart the two lens are, and they are all the same distance apart.

[john_calafut]

For question #2:

 

On the professional F model there is a knurled ring concentric with the lock/ unlock knob that lets you select which focal length you're using. I'm not sure about the other models. Mamiya has manuals available in pdf on their website at

http://www.mamiya.com/customerservice1.asp?id=3&id2=115

 

Regards,

[pavelp]

1. Pro F/S have better WLF than Pro. Much better actually. But you can get the F/S type of the WLF and put on C330 as well (they are interchangeable). The so called "single-action" WLF is one of the must-have accesories if you plant to use WLF. Pro-S has brighter screen than Pro/Pro-F, unfortuantelly the screens for Pro-S (other than the basic type) are difficult to find). Pro/Pro-F screens are easily available. Pro F/S has focus lock (to prevent the belows from creeping). It might or might not be important to you. Pro-S has different door lock (less reliable than Pro-F/Pro). That's about it.

 

2. The focal lenght for paralax correction is set by a knob on the left hand side of the camera. You need special screen inserts for 55/250 lenses (or you can just estimate).

 

3. The camera set to single will not fire until you wind the film. You can simulate this situation by putting an empty take-up spool to upper chamber. The mechanism that block the shutter release after firing at Single setting is notorious for locking the shutter release even if you just push the shutter release part-way down. You can either set camera on multi and make sure that you wind after each exposure or get more decisive about the shutter (once you push it, push it all the way down).

 

4. The LOCK/UNLOCK know locks the lens holding wire. It might not work after several decades though.

 

5. Yeah, it's just a reminder. I find it pretty useless because it does not hold reliably. It was removed from Pro-S.

 

6. Must have accessories: single action WLF, lens hood, good lightmeter and whatever else you need to do what you want to do with the camera.

 

7. You ask Mamiya people but they were not exactly volunteering this information. They may not actually have it themselves. You should be able to find production periods for Pro/Pro-F/Pro-S models but that's about as close as you get.

 

8. Other people answered this. Cheap and flimsy tripod are only good if you enjoy being frustrated.

 

9. Any flash with PC cable will work. Vivitar 283 or 285HV are good suggestion. I use ProMaster 5700 which is also good (and versatile).

[pavelp]

<i>I think a metered prism is available for the C330 as an optional accessory, and the blue ring might also set the ISO film speed for the meter if the prism is attached. I do not have a C330 though, so I'm not sure.</i><br><br>

 

There is metered porrofinder (not a real prism) available from Mamiya, but it does not have much of magnification and the brightness could be better too. It is entirely uncoupled and has no relation to ISO reminder ring (the blue ring is just a reminder, it does not set anything).

<br><br>

 

If you need a good metered prisms for C330, look at <a href=http://www.baierfoto.de/mameng.html>Baier Foto prisms</a>. They are still uncoupled, but they have very nice magnification (almost as much as the WLF) and they are quite bright. I have one and it's fantastic for candids. Actually, here some more <a href=http://www.glasseyeproductions.org/tmp/bf-gallery/>pictures of my prism</a> (just in case you want to examine it really close). It adds another level of weirdness to the camera.<br><br>

 

As there is no coupling mechanism in the camera, all prism will be uncoupled (you have transfer the reading from the prism to the lens, it won't happen automatically).

[loren_sattler]

6) Standard filters work fine. I find the different filter diameters to be a nuisance. I use a step up ring to go from 46mm to 49mm and try to only need one set of filters. If you need a lens hood, find just one that fits your standardized filter diameter. You can use it on all three lenses.

 

BTW, I have not had the flare problems many have alluded to when reading this forum. Perhaps I don't shoot into the sun as often as other people?

 

I do not agree with the suggestion above about avoiding the CDS Porofinder. Yes, mine is dim and the image is still backwards (left to right). However, I find the camera much easier to handhold if I use it like a 35mm, pressed against my cheek to steady it during exposure. I find myself rarely using the standard waist level finder. I would like to add a split image screen to improve focusing.

 

I had the exact same lenses as mentioned, 65, 80, and 180. There was such little difference between the view of the 65 and 80, I found a 55mm lens and sold the 65. The 55 is about the equivalent of a 35mm lens on a 35mm camera and is the widest offered for the Mamiya.

 

This camera and lenses mentioned are heavy to lug around on your shoulder. Recently I purchased a Lowepro Mini Trecker backpack which I am very pleased with. It opens and closes very easily and is large enough to hold all this equipment plus a 35mm slr, flash etc. This is the older "Mini Trecker". It is plain black and therefore less noticeable. It does not look like a camera bag which is good around airports etc. (New on ebay for about $50. plus shipping.)

 

You will enjoy this equipment if the slow pace of using it suites your style. It is well made and the lenses are sharp and contrasty.

 

Mamiya has a user forum on their web site specifically for the TLR models. See: http://www.mamiya.com/ Click on the user forum on the left hand column and follow the prompts.

 

Good luck.

[mag_miksch]

Pavel, please can you tell me the weight of your prism finder and do you use the baby handheld or on tripod?

[pavelp]

<i>Pavel, please can you tell me the weight of your prism finder and do you use the baby handheld or on tripod?</i>

<br><br>

 

I have the TTL integral/spot version (as shown on the pictures) and it weights 1lb 1.6oz. It sounds heavy, but it really is not bad. The WLF is about 150g and you take it off when using the prism, so you add about 250g.

<br><br>

 

Also, the prism makes the camera much more ergonomic. The eye cup sits firmly in your eye socket, thus providing additional stability (sometimes I come home with a black ring around my left eye (from the eye cup). I get sharper pictures handheld using this prism than with the WLF. <br><br>

 

The only thing that really bites is that the eye cup is Kiev type, it likes to slip off and is difficult to put back. You need to take some care when carrying the camera. Also, the cup is not part of the package, but Rolf Baier gave me one free just because I asked.<br><br>

 

I use this prism only handheld, because when I use a tripod I really have no excuse not use the WLF. And as with any prism with good magnification, it is little difficult to see from corner to corner. You cannot beat WLF (with the magnifier down) when it comes to judging the composition. <br><br>

 

The metering is nice and sometimes handy, but if I'll need another prism, I will not spend the extra money on uncoupled metering.

[matthew_king]

There is also a Mamiya PRISM finder - it is a true prism, the image is unreversed and right side up, it is reasonably compact, and seems to be made of solid metal and glass, because it is heavy for it's size. It rarely leaves my C330. (My C220 gets most of the WLF work).

With respect to the tripod/head question, I have one of the rarest accessories - a Paramender 3 tripod head. It came new (about 25-30 years ago) with a Mamiya tripod. It is a tripod head with a built in paramender adjustment (a very stable and solid one). The two extra Mamiya alignment pins are built into the head. It has limited movements (no side to side tilt, just rotate and forward and back tilt) and if you want to use it on another model tripod, you need to find one with a 1/4" post, rather than the more standard 3/8" post. The built in paramender is great, but it may be that the curiosity factor is its greatest value.

Have fun with your camera - I've enjoyed mine since I bought it new (actually a store demonstrator) almost 30 years ago.

[art_karr]

To divert from equipment for a bit, I will talk about results. I have

a C330, a C33 and a true prism finder. I have had them for years.

One thing I have noticed is that photographs taken with the prism

finder look a whole lot different than the ones taken with the WLF

[even taken at the same time]. My guess is that it is the

prespective one gets when holding the camera to the eye verses

holding it down on your stomach. Of course this applies to

close-ups and not to distant subjects. :)

 

Art

[mag_miksch]

Pavel, thanks for info,

 

regarding the original prisma, I have had one( not the porro) but found it heavy and dark and traded it away. Its just usefull if you shoot moving objects, in the beginning its kinda difficult to follow movement with the WLF, but in the meantime I got some experience and its not that difficult.