Bronica S2A shutter lag ?

[michael_p6]

I was shooting outside on saturday morning, and actualy missed the

first shot (I shoot handheld) because the camera took about 1/2s to 1s

between the time I pressed the shurtter and the time the shutter

actualy fired.

After that I held steady until the shutter fired, and I had small

delays varying from 1/2 to the normal "instant" without any particular

reason..

 

Is it a known symptom in cold weather ? I had the camera around the

neck, not in a bag...

[david_nevin1]

Sounds like it might be due for a good CLA (clean, lubricate, adjust). When was the last time one was done to the camera?

 

A CLA from Frank Marshman (sp?) at CameraWiz was the best money I ever spent on my old S2A. It seemed like a different camera when it came back.

[michael_p6]

I'm in the UK, it would cost more then the price of the whole system to have it shipped oversea, CLAed and shipped back.

 

Despite that small lag, just that day, it works fine! I just wondered if it was a known thing, I'm very new to mecanical cameras :-)

[simon_benton]

I have had this problem on S2A's and the EC range of Bronica cameras. The reason for mine was the rubber stops that the mirror rest on become soft and sticky with age and hold the mirror back before the mirror spring tension is enough to overcome the stickiness. I had one camera where the lag was anything from 1 sec to 2 or 3 minutes. Was worse in hot weather. I had a camera repair shop in Chicago (forget the name) who fixed it quickly. A google search will probably locate them. Simon Benton

[old school]

Michael, I've recently been looking to find someone in the UK that could CLA my old S2A to try to ensure it works well for the foreseeable future (no current problems but i suspect the focus screen foam may be starting to go and so affect very fine close focus). Was also hoping to find someone who could change the focus screen if I bought one from Maxwell/Beattie etc (and at same time replace foam etc). I haven't contacted any of these, or found out yet if they would be able to CLA an S2A , or are even still in business etc, but you might like to try some of the following in the UK.

 

Bronica UK. Bronica Service Department Priors Way, Maidenhead, Berks SL6 2HR Tel: (Direct) 01628 799902 Fax: (Direct) 01628 799912 Please send your equipment to the above address and we will send an estimate of costs by return"

 

Interphoto Ltd., Priors Way, Maidenhead, Berks. SL6 2HR, Tel 01628 799902. The advert mentions free estimates within 48 hours & 6 months guarantee.

 

Bromley Camera Repairs, based in Chislehurst, Kent was established in 1986. http://www.bromleycamerarepairs.co.uk/

 

Camera Repair Centre. For an accurate estimate of the cost to repair your camera, please phone us on 01892 619136.

47 London Road, Southborough,

Tunbridge Wells,

Kent, TN4 0PB

Telephone: 01892 619136

Fax: 01892 540362

Opening Hours: 9am - 5.30pm Monday to Friday

9am - 1pm Saturday

(Closed 1pm - 2pm each day)

 

Camera Clinic

020 7602 7976

HEAD OFFICE: WEST END BRANCH:

26 North End Crescent,

West Kensington,

London,

W14 - 8TD

Phone: 020 7602 7976

Fax: 020 7602 7534 2nd Floor,

18 Great Portland Street,

London,

W1W-8QR

Phone: 020 7631 5224

Fax: 020 7631 5250

 

I would be interested to know if you find any of them that will CLA/service an S2A and what the approx cost is (and would save me a lot of the leg work :-)

[michael_p6]

Regarding focusing screen alone, it's a very very easy operation to do yourself. I changed the foam on mine, and also switched focusing screen to a prism one (originaly sold for Pentacon 6 cameras) before switching back.

 

For CLA yes I might try to contact Bronica UK, maidenhead is very near were I live !

Thanks for the list !

[old school]

Michael, would you recommend replacing the focus screen of the S2A? Does it make as much difference as some reports suggest? And how easy was it to do and then get everything aligned/focused/corrected again with the new foam? I've been thinking about doing it for a while but have just had troble choosing between prism, centre split with prism, large and small prism etc. I know alot of this is personal preference but what did you go for? Thanks Stuart.

[michael_p6]

For the changing of the foam, it's very simple, and nothing can go wrong as far as alignement is concerned; the foam pressed the screen in a fixed position anyway so there is no calibration issue.

If you know your way around a screwdriver and have some replacement foam (anything that is about 2mm deep will do) you just have to remove two screws after you remove the focusing tent and the focus screen holder will come out easily.

Also make sure you put back the screen and the glass in the same orientation as they were, otherwise it might seem to fit back in, but focus will be wrong!

After that it's just a question of cleaning the old gunky stuff, make sure not to break the ground glass or touch the plastic surface too much...

 

As for changing the screen itself, the "why" is because when using the 78mm f2.8 lens it's OK, but when using my 50mm f3.5 it's indeed quite dark... So when you have removed these two screws it's easy to manipulate the screen and try a replacement.

I tried a really cheap "made in china" screen, and had to cut it to size to fit the S2A. It worked just fine (the microprisms in the center etc) and it was somehow brighter but I tought it wasn't as precise on the rest of the screen. Thats why I changed back to the original one after all, that gound glass may be old, but it's nice and precise..

 

I'm certain I could find something better. Someone on this list mentioned using a Hassy screen and cut it to size, it'd probably be better too... I'll give it a go in the near future...