Contax help!

[pran_take]

Hello,

I had a problem with my 167mt camera and the local repairman told me

it is 'dead'. I already have 28/2.8,50/1.7,85/2.8Sonnar (all T*)

lenses which I like very much. I use this mostly for treks, climbing

(only28mm here) etc and other trips. A friend of mine (who also told

me about this website) has a NikonFM2 which I find suitable for my

needs (sturdy, no nonsense, mechanical). But since I have zeiss lenses

I would like something similar in contax line. Does it make sense or

should I sell the lenses and buy FM2 and nikon lense? Two of these are

made in Japan other I do not know. That friend also suggested to buy a

canon digital and said the zeiss lenses (no matter how old), is it

true? But anyway am not interested in digital/heavy electronic stuff.

Please help!

[neal_wydra1]

Dear Pran,

 

Check out http://www.dslrexchange.com/. You might also consider an old Yashica FX-2. All mechanical and they usually go for under $30.

[marbing]

One of the known issues with the 167mt (I do own one too) is a less than 100% electrical reliability. I the first 167mt body I had died within an hour of purchase but the problem was the battery terminals. I didn't want to take a chance and so I exchanged it for a new body but I expect the old one eventually worked again. </p>

 

I got the P5 battery holder which avoids the 167mt battery compartment completely AND moves the tripod mount to a more central location. It also menas that, if the batterys leak..they are going to leak in the holder and not in the camera...and the holder is replacable.</p>

 

Another issue that I ahve heard about but never actually experienced is the report that the 167mt doesn't have a lithium battery (to retain settings) but a capacitor that eventually will have to be replaced by the factory. I don't know the details on that but others might have more complete information.</p>

 

<a href="http://www.cdegroot.com/photo-contax-167mt/" >Contax 167mt</a></p>

[vdp]

Pran, Check out Ebay or KEH photo. I find the FX 3 (either the FX3, FX3 Super or FX3 Super 2000) to be excellent basic cameras that will accomodate your very fine Zeiss lenses. I also own the 85 2.8 and the 50 1.7 and they are too great to let go of. Also, if you want an excellent Contax camera that also takes your lenses try the Contax 139Q. The 139Q is lightweight, easy to use, sturdy and can be gotten fairly cheaply on either Ebay or KEH. Good luck.

[mike_elek]

I would recommend buying another Contax body. No need to dump excellent glass, then buy into another system and have to buy all new lenses.

 

Simply buy a used body. Many of these go for less than $150 on eBay. You might have to replace the foam seals for $9, but that's about it. Make sure the body works, of course.

[pran_take]

thanks everybody!

Which one do you recomment Mike?!

s2 is way too costly and also not worth the price IMO.

I also though about the aria but then I do not know much about it.

[chris_chow]

The Aria is an obvious choice. Light, small and has excellent viewfinder. It shakes a bit when fired. Also, don't count on its matrix metering.

 

The 28, 50 and 85 are top class lenses. At this price level, you will not find anything better in the Nikon line up.

[kaiblanke]

If you want a lightweight body then look into either a 139q or a 159mm - both with manual advance. The 139 will be alot cheaper while the 159 is 10 years younger. Not much difference in their functionality, though. The Yashica FX-D is the same as a 139 but without mirror-lockup. Also recommended.

<p>

If you prefer a built-in motor, which adds some weight, try either a 137MA or another 167 in the low-budget department. An Aria or RX / ST are nice, but cost quite alot still.

<p>

Lastly, an original RTS is also an option, heavy as those with built-in motors but with manual advance. Nice design, though.

<p>

I have a RTS, a 139 and a 159: The 159 my girlfriend likes best while the 139 works great as an all-around body. Both can use the same winder btw (the one from the 139). The RTS really shines with heavier lenses like the 85/1.4 or the 180/200mm ones, but if you do not have any of these, then I'd say stick with the lighter bodies.

[mike_elek]

The 137MD and to a less extent, the 139, show up a lot on eBay. I'd look at either of those models. Or you could simply go for the RTS system. It's not like you need to buy all new lenses -- just the body. So decide how much you want to spend and then make your decision. And any body you buy should last you several decades.

[donnie_strickland]

I have and recommend a Yashica FX-3. All-mechanical, reliable and lightweight (good for climbing, no?).

[stwrtertbsratbs5]

Are your lenses MM? Not all bodies will support all modes of operation that the MM lenses can provide.

 

Robert

[kaiblanke]

Pran,

<p>

be aware that the 137MD body only has aperture-priority, no manual setting of time and aperture. The 137MA has both, that is why I did not include the MD in my list of recommended cameras - since the MA is usually the same price as the MD there is no reason to take a MD.

<p>

About MM: Surely it is nice to have a body that supports MM, but MM is only needed for program automation and shutter-priority modes. If you do not use any of these like me, there is no reason to spend money for it. The following bodies have MM functionality: 159mm, 167mt, ST, RX(II), RTSIII, Aria. Yashica bodies with program mode do not need MM lenses, so if you take one of these like the 109mp, you are set also.

<p>

Generally Yashica bodies are quite a lot cheaper and quite robust, but are also missing some nice features: They usually have no mirror-lockup (but the lower model contax bodies do not have it either), mostly no DOF preview, lower shutter and synch speeds and usually no metal body like the earlier Contax bodies.

<p>

Be aware that accessories like winders can be interchanged: The FX winder works nice on my 139q and the FR winder would also work on a RTS body.

[kaiblanke]

Pran,

<p>

one more thing: If you have some spare cash, do yourself a favor and buy a Zeiss 200/3.5 Tele-Tessar: I had almost the same setup as you (with the 35 instead of the 28), and the 200, although huge, is a great addition and quickly became my most-beloved lens. Another great pick is the Yashica ML 35-105 zoom, which is a nice all-purpose lens that can be found for less than EUR 40 mostly.

[pran_take]

Thanks Kai and everybody for your answers.

Actually all lenses have written 'made in Japan' on them so am not sure if they are MM or AE lenses. Is there any way to know it?

In a local shop there is offer of 139QD (does qd mean printing date etc like eos bodies?) and a 50mm for 120Euro. Body is in great working condition but the leather is gone, i will check again.

Kai, thanks for 200mm suggestion. I will look into it.

[stwrtertbsratbs5]

Thanks for filling in the gaps, Kai. My Contax equipment is older (Contax IIIa) and all manual. So I'm aware that some lenses provide additional functionality, even though I've never used it!

 

Robert

[vdp]

Pran, On the three Zeiss lenses that you have, the last F stop ("22" on the 28 & 85 and "16" on the 50) will be either white in color or green. If they are in green that means they are MM which stands for "multi mode". This means, as was stated above, they can be used to take advantage of the full funtionality of the later Contax bodies. If the last F stop is white it means they are AE lenses and still can be used with all Contax and Yashica C/Y mount cameras but with the later Contaxes you just don't have use of the "P" and "av" modes which does every thing for you. Three of my lenses are ae the rest are MM both are equally great and sharp.

[pran_take]

Thank you Vincent!

[kaiblanke]

Pran,

<p>

EUR 120 for a working 139q body and a 50 Planar is more than ok - on eBay you will pay about the same if not more. If the lens is a Yashica then try to get a price on the body alone: A nice and working 139q should set you back about EUR 100. If the leather is worn (which is mostly the problem of the 137 and 139 series) then have a look at cameraleather.com or aki-asahi.com: Both offer new leather kits of better durability than the original one. I have used both, cameraleather for an old Leica and Aki-asahi for my 139q, and cannot find anything bad to say about their products. And the 139 looks really cool in bordeaux snake-skin leather :)

<p>

If the body has a data back, the you can imprint dates onto the picture directly. Some like it, I do not so much - they add on a bit on the bulkiness of the camera. With some older data backs like the one from the RTS there is a problem that they had a Y2K kind of problem: The manual dials do not cover anything from 2000 on. So you may want to check this before buying the camera.

<p>

As for the 200mm: Expect to pay around EUR 200 for it, but try it first, if the size suits you. If you use it on a 139q, you might want to add a winder to gain better balance.

[pran_take]

I purchased the 139Q and it is light. Please tell me what care one should take with this camera. Now I have best lenses and time to make pictures! :)

Thank you all.

[kaiblanke]

Care? Just clean it on the outside as you do with every camera and take pictures regularly. Enjoy it :)