Inexpensive body for metering with AI-S lens

[grant_bridenbaugh]

Hi, all... I apologize if this is a dead horse subject, but the

search function hasn't been very kind to me.

 

I recently acquired a 105mm Lester Dine macro lens (I believe it to

be one of the variant labels of the well-regarded Kiron lens; I hope

so, at least) in AI-S mount. Unfortunately, my dim brain didn't

recall when buying the lens that MF lenses won't meter whatsoever on

my N80.

 

Given the price of used, older model film bodies, I figure I can buy

a body to use just with this lens (and any other MF lenses I might

pick up down the road) and still not have half the money into the

lens/camera combo as I would spend for a used AF 105mm

Nikon/Sigma/Tamron(90) macro lens.

 

What I'm wondering is, which older AF bodies will meter with this

lens, and without jumping through a lot of hoops? Or, would you

recommend a MF body? (I only ask about AF first because I'm more

familiar with them.) The only one I know for sure is the N70, and I

hate its interface. Do any of the older, simpler models meter

easily (N4004, etc)? I know the AF kind of stinks on these cams,

but for what I want it for, that's not a problem.

 

Thanks for any input/advice.

[alan_olander1664878205]

The N8008, N90, F4, F5 will meter with MF lenses. I think the N6006 and N4004 will, also. You can pick up a used N8008 for a very reasonable price, and they have a lot of nice features.

[rob_malkin]

f100

[anupam]

I have a little summary of what bodies will meter on my <a href="http://blue.chem.psu.edu/~anupam/photography/equipment.html">web site.</a> I use a Vivitar series 1 105/2.5 which is very similar to your lens, and it is definitely worth getting a body for. Infact switching to optically great but affordable lenses was the primary reason I ditched my N80 for a N90s and an FE-2 last winter. I'd say get a MF body, it gives you a whole new set of options beside the N80. The EM and FG lack DOF buttons, so I'd avoid them for macro. FE or FM is great. With the FE-2 of FM3A you also get TTL flash. If you want AF remember that the N70 lacks a DOF button. The N90 is nice - fast AF, great viewfinder will make you want to give up your N80 (no G lenses or VR lenses though. The N8008s is almost the same features for less money.<p>

-A

[t._shepherd]

Try these:

 

http://www.bythom.com/lensacronyms.htm

 

http://www.aiconversions.com/compatibilitytable.htm

 

http://www.nikonians.org/html/resources/nikon_articles/other/compatibility.html

 

http://www.zi.ku.dk/personal/lhhansen/photo/AI-S-Comp.htm

 

http://www.nikonlinks.com/unklbil/bodylens.htm

[jay_miao1]

Check <a href="http://www.zi.ku.dk/personal/lhhansen/photo/AI-S-Comp.htm"> <B> here </B> </a> for detailed information.

[harvey_edelstein1]

A novel idea,what about a hand held meter. The Sekonic 358 even lights up its display in the dark. Also, it can be used as a flashmeter and controller with an optional internal wireless radio transceiver. Then you can use all the manual lenses you want and get more accurate incident reading of subjects. You can check the accuracy of used equipments meters before purchase agaist the manual meter so that you don't get stuck with an inaccurate camera metering system.

[ShunCheung]

Used F100's are fairly affordable in these days. Therefore, one option is to upgrade your N80 to an F100 and you get the best of both worlds.

 

Otherwise, you can add a body that can meter with MF lenses. Both the advantage and disadvantage is that you'll have two separate bodies. There are so many choices for another body that I won't add to the confusion.

[jovan]

First don't apologize. Your subject is more interesting then some turbo-jambo digital. <br>

Before Nikon F6 Only Nikon F4 ,F501(N2020) and FA will work in full <br> program mode with AI/S manual lens. <br>

In P-mode F4 work with 5 matrix metering. F501 in P-mode work <br> center-weght light metering but you don't nead to close lans aperture <br> ring to maximum and camera read type of manual lens <br>

(Wide, Normal,Tele) and consider it in exposition calculations.<br>

Nikon FA hase rudimental 'Matrix' - Metering but it is MF camera. <br>

<br>

Others F601,801,90,70,90x,100,5 can work in Manual or Aperture <br> priority mode with spot or CW light metering. <br>

<br>

I think that F501 (N2020) is almoust ideal...<br>

[Michael R Freeman]

<i>"... Only Nikon F4 ,F501(N2020) and FA will work in full

program mode with AI/S manual lens."</i><P>

 

The F4 will only work in A and M modes with AI/AIS lenses (unless they are "chipped"), but you do get full matrix. The FG works in P mode with AI/AIS lenses, but with no DOF preview it's not very useful for macro work.<p>

The N8008s/F801s, as previously recommended, is a good cheap AF body that will work well with manual lenses. Easily found for under $150. The N2020/F-501 is cheap (under a $100), but I don't think it has DOF preview(?) which is very useful (necessary) for macro work.<P>

Mike

[david_h._hartman]

Good choices include the F2A & F2As through the F5. All of

the FM/FE family of cameras and the Nikkormat FT3 and Nikon EL2.

For a very small and light camera the FG is favored my many. The

EM is pretty limited and has no advantages over the FG that I can

think of.<br>

<br>

The F100 and F5 are particularly good with AI & AIS Lenses.

They do not matrix meter but older matrix metering did really

compel me. The F100 weighs 861g with 4 AA lithium batteries and a

1 nylon neck strap. The F5 weighs 1,344g with 8 AA lithium

batteries and a 1 nylon strap.<br>

<br>

As Shun says you get the best of both worlds with the

F100 and its light enough for prolonged or casual use. If

you are shooting big telephotos the F5 is a better fit though you

can add the MB-15 to the F100 for more leverage and weight. The

price of the F100 is disgustingly low now considering that I paid

$1,229.95 for mine. You will find the F100 similar in handling

and very natural to use but a great improvement in almost every

way compared to the N80. The viewfinder in the F100 is well

suited to manual focus and the AF performance is impressive.<br>

<br>

Hope this helps,<br>

<br>

Dave Hartman

[ethan_melad]

i think that your best bets would be to either save for an f100 upgrade or sell the lens you

got and buy a new (or newer) nikkor 105 micro. however, i'm not convinced that its worth

buying a new body for a cheap third party lens - the price of another decent body would

most likely be equal or more than the difference between the lens you have and the cost of

a nikkor 105.

[jbq]

I'd consider a "real" MF body, with a "real" MF focusing screen. I used to own an FE and loved it.

[ShunCheung]

The advantage of having two bodies is that you'll have a back up.

 

The down side is that you'll have to carry two bodies pretty much all the time. Moreover, when you have some lenses that can only be used with one of the bodies, you'll often end up with half a roll on both bodies. There is no such problem with digital, but with film, it is much easier to finish an entire roll on one body.

[george_bourke]

You might want to consider an FM body (not the FM2 or FM2n) for both price + if you want a body for use with older lenses, the FM, FE, F2A, and F2AS alone (if my memory serves <g>) can take both AI/AIS and non-AI lenses without damaging the camera body...this is because the meter coupling tab can be flipped up out of the way for non-AI lenses.

 

George

[ben conover]

I like the f4 because it has proper knobs and no silly custom functions, dials, and other learning curves. It operates very well with many old lenses, it is well made, it is not too expensive.

 

Cheers.