Nikon SB-15 VS SB-27

[wuyeah]

High guys. I am thinking about getting a flash for my F3HP & F5.

 

I usually don't use much of flash, most of time I found flashes are too bulk

and too bright provide stiff image. I was looking at the line up, The SB-15 &

SB-27 are the small buddy that is not so heavy to carry around.

 

I don't know much about flash, yet I think the difference is at Auto TTL

(although i don't know what TTL really means.) I think SB-15 will flash on F5

too.

 

What is the advantage to get SB-27 one over the SB-15? If not so much on

power, function difference, I might just go for SB-15 for the cheaper cost.

[david_h._hartman]

<em>I usually don't use much of flash, most of time I

found flashes are too bulk and too bright provide stiff image. I

was looking at the line up, The SB-15 & SB-27 are the small

buddy that is not so heavy to carry around. --William Wu<br>

</em><br>

Too bright, stiff image? This is a matter of use or misuse of the

device. If you dont know too much about flash maybe you

should study the better use of flash. Flash used extensively by

the finest photographers.<br>

<br>

To bulky? Have you looked lately? The SB-800 is quite small and

more powerful than the speedlights you are considering. The flash

tube is farther from the lens when mounted in the hot shoe. Im

guessing here but when you say too bright and provide

stiff image you are probably talking about the hard look of

on camera flash. There are lots of ways of getting the flash off

the camera and there are light modifiers you might consider.<br>

<br>

The SB-15 is a nice little unit. I own two of these. Im not

planing to sell them but they are less than idea for use with a

Nikon F5 as they do not fully support the F5. The do not offer

balanced TTL flash and they dont offer variable manual

flash. They have no built in slave capacity such as an SU-4 mode.

They have no distance priority mode. When used in auto mode they

offer only two apertures per ISO setting. I cannot recommend the

SB-15 for use with the F5.<br>

<br>

So what about the SB-27? The SB-27 has a guide number of ISO 100,

30m / 98 ft. and weighs 340g with the head set to 35mm. The SB-800

has a guide number of ISO 100, 38m / 125 feet again with the head

set to 35mm. This means the maximum range of the SB-800 is 125%

that of the SB-27. The recycle time of the SB-27 is about 0.5

seconds faster on four AA NiMH cells but its 1.1 seconds

slower when the SB-800 is power by 5 AA NiMH cells. The SB-800

has more reserve power for a second or third flash in quick

succession so practical recycling time is likely a wash. The SD-800,

the holder for the fifth cell, adds 11g to the SB-800 bringing

the weight to 361g so we have 340g v. 350 or 361g. Not a

significant difference. As far as bulk goes there is no

significant difference either though the SB-27 is slightly

smaller. Stowed in your camera bag or mounted on your camera

there is no significant difference in size and weight to be felt.

The only thing one might notice is slower recycle times when the

SB-800 is powered by five AA NiMH cells.<br>

<br>

The SB-15 is significantly smaller and lighter than the SB-16B.

In the same way I once thought I might like an SB-27 but as

technology improves the SB-800 has taken the advantage away from

the SB27.<br>

<br>

If the cost of the SB-800 it too high you might consider the SB-600.

The SB-600 weighs 40g less than the SB-27 and has the same ISO

100 x 35mm guide number. The recycle time is 0.1 seconds faster

than the SB-27.<br>

<br>

As far as bang for the buck I think the SB-800 with more power,

more features, more accessories and the more versatile Cobra

Style is the best light speedlight available for the Nikon F5.<br>

<br>

For the F3? I recommend an AS-17 adapter and any of the SB-24, 25,

26, 28, 80 and SB-800 speedlights. I think the best would be the

SB-25 or 26 for price and SB-800 best over all.<br>

<br>

Best,<br>

<br>

Dave Hartman.

[david_finnigan]

Hello William

<p>

I think it depends on how you want to use the flash and how often. I dont have an F3 now or an F5 but I have the SB15 unit which I use with my F6. I know this seems to be quite a discrepancy in level of equipment , but the truth is I very rarely use the flash and when I do its mostly for automated TTL fill in , in daylight or slow sync in lower light (either front or rear curtain ) which , for me works well. I thought about a better gun , but for the frequency with which I use the flash it didnt seem worth it. I am actually very surprised at how the SB15 works with the F6 and that is due to Nikons philosophy of backward compatability where possible. Its reliable , compact and easy to use.

However it will only cover up to 28mm by use of an adaptor , so if you want to use wider lenses then you would have to use a more modern unit.

<p>

Regards

<p>

David Finnigan

<p>

<a

href="http://www.davidfinnigan.co.uk">http://www.davidfinnigan.co.uk</a>

[david_h._hartman]

The SB-15 does not offer balanced TTL flash nor does it offer

variable manual power. It also does not offer flash exposure

compensation. The SB-15 offers full manual power and 1/10 power

or motor drive mode, thats all. Its got to be about

as bad a choice as I can think of for balanced fill flash with

most any camera.<br>

<br>

Ive used the Vivitar 285 for manually balanced fill flash

with a Nikon FM2 and Rollei 80/2.8 Xenotar. The calculator dial

isnt the best and the calibration of the 285 is typically

over-rated but once you know the unit its fairly strait

forward to get results.<br>

<br>

Ive used manual balanced flash and TTL balanced flash with

a Nikon SB-24 and a Nikon F4s & F5. Given the price of used

Nikon SB-24(s) today I dont know why anyone would buy an SB-15.

I mostly use my SB-15(s) in MD mode to trigger a Norman P2000X

studio strobe. In the past Ive used the SB-15 with a 105/2.8

AIS Micro-Nikkor with the SB-15 flipped over the lens and the

bounce head pointed down slightly. Im thinking here of the

Nikon F2As and F3 as the flash will always be to one side or the

other with a camera whos hot shoe is centered over the

prism. I also use the SW-6 wide angle diffuser when using the SB-15

for close-up(s). Having mentioned the SB-15s bounce head I

must say the power is really lacking for bounce flash under most

all conditions.<br>

<br>

If all one wants is a speedlight for short distance snaps at a

low price then maybe the SB-15 is the right unit but price has to

be the deciding factor. The guide number of the SB-15 is only ISO

100, 18m / 25 ft. The SB-15 weights about 260g. If we are

pinching grams this is only 40g less than the SB-600. While Im

giving weights for various speedlights I might as well toss in

the SB-24. Its weight is 390g. As to bulk I cant see

the SB-15 as having much advantage over the SB-800 and I dont

believe there is any advantage over the SB-600. <br>

<br>

A some point one needs to ask themselves if saving a few grams is

the object or image quality is. If image quality is then the SB-15

is pretty low on the scale. There is not much one can do to

modify or improve the light over raw, on camera flash. With an SB-24,

a 3x5 card, rubber band and a white ceiling you can have bounce

flash with a fill card. This is far better than what little the

SB-15 offers.<br>

<br>

The recycle time of the SB-15 is more than double that of the SB-600

when both are loaded with alkaline batteries. It is faster with

NiMH but then so is the SB-600.<br>

<br>

The SB-600 offers a much better feature set for the Nikon F5 or F6

as it offers standard and balanced TTL flash and variable manual

power from full to 1/64th. Its a cobra style flash so the

flash is farther from the lens. The SB-15 is normally mounted to

the left side of the lens casting rather ugly shadows to the

other side of the subject. Since its low it going to give

that deer in the headlamps look even more and its more

likely to give red eye. The SB-27 mounts the same way as the SB-15

so the ugly shadows and red eye problem are much the same. <br>

<br>

---<br>

<br>

William,<br>

<br>

The SB-15 and SB-27 are two flash units that will give you

exactly the kind of light and image you do not want. Im

really sure of this. Ive owned an SB-15 since about 1982 so

I have a certain affection for the little devils but compared to

todays speedlights they have many drawbacks. The worst is

the P&S light quality that you get for anything but close-up

photography as described above.<br>

<br>

In a lot of situations I prefer to avoid flash if the ambient

light is nice. If I can get the image I want with a fast prime

lens such as a 50/1.4, 1.8, (I dont own one but a 35/1.4),

28/2.0 or 20/2.8 thats the way Ill do it but

sometimes there is no choice.<br>

<br>

Well thats my two cents. If you still want the SB-15 or SB-27

v. an SB-600 or perhaps an SB-26 thats fine with me.<br>

<br>

Regards,<br>

<br>

Dave Hartman.

[ebogaerts]

"The SB-15 is normally mounted to the left side of the lens casting rather ugly shadows to the other side of the subject. Since it�s low it going to give that deer in the headlamps look even more and it�s more likely to give red eye. The SB-27 mounts the same way as the SB-15 so the ugly shadows and red eye problem are much the same."

 

David -

 

I was under the impression that the off-axis positioning of the SB-15/27 helped to cut down on red-eye rather than contribute to it.

[david_h._hartman]

<em>I was under the impression that the off-axis

positioning of the SB-15/27 helped to cut down on red-eye rather

than contribute to it. -- Eric Bogaerts<br>

</em><br>

I dont think I really said that it does contribute to red

eye but I was rambling and so I was not clear above. The side

mounting likely reduces the chance of red eye some while causing

the unpleasant shadows. The SB-15s flash tube is still

quite close to the lens so I would not count redeye out at least

on a camera like the FE2, FM2n and FM3a. On an F3 or F2 the SB-15

and SB-27 is further to the left so the chance of redeye should

be low with short to medium lenses. I"m still not as clear

as I should be; I hope this makes some sense.<br>

<br>

Since the mid seventies Ive been mounting speedlights above

the lens and as high as possible. I used to use an anatomical

left side flash bracket (Sunset and other various brands) with a

Hasselblad extension arm. This worked great with a Hassie or

Rollei TLR but not so well with a Nikon because it didnt

keep the flash above the lens for vertical shots. The Hasselblad

bracket I used extended at about a 45 degree angle to the right

to counter the flash shoe possition of the left side bracket.<br>

<br>

If I have the advantage of a 8 to 10 foot white ceiling (2.5 to 3

meters) my preferred method is to use 90 degree bounce with a 3x5

fill card on a cobra style flash. This can be done for both

horizontal and vertical shoots. Even with the flash over the lens

there are harsh shadows on the face and under the chin. With

bounce flash there are soft but deep shadows. The 3x5 fill

card fills the shadows left by bounce flash quite nicely.<br>

<br>

For a bit more effort a flip bracket is great but this is not

what William is looking for. Though I do not normally recommend

them as compared to the SB-800, the SB-600 is probably the best

match for William.<br>

<br>

Best,<br>

<br>

Dave Hartman.

[david_h._hartman]

There is an SB-28 on KEH.com today going for $109.00 in EX+ condition. 320g, ISO 100 guide of 35mm - 36m / 118 ft. This unit full supports the F5. There are several at just over $100.00 (USD).

[nolan_ross]

I have the sb15 which I carry around with my FE2. I use it for fill flash outside (ttl flash). It is compact and does not take up much room in my bag and I can slip it into my side pocket of my cargo type shorts. It is an inadequate flash indoors and is not a good choice for either of your camera's. It would work for fill flash with the F5 the same as with my FE2 I think but I am not positive about it. Since you have the F5 I would think there are only two choices to make. The sb600 or sb800. The sb600 would provide a smallish unit while giving you a high end unit. It will work on both of your cameras..I think you should look to the sb600.....nolan

[wuyeah]

Dave Hartman, I can't thank you more for your prompt reply. I am reading over and over

not only for the purchasing purpose, but to understand better as intro flash.

 

Yes, if you browse through my work on photo.net. Most of all works are shot in natural

light. I do not have a DSLR, if I do, the flash experiment & experience will be much easier

and cheaper. My bad flash experience are all from use of portable digicam. Often it is so

bad that I am almost "afraid" to use flash on film. Unless i am really sure. But if i don't

shoot with flash on film, how exactly i am gonna go from pt A to B right.

 

All Fine & Pro photographer almost never work without flash in studio work. Which i see

the importance to extend my knowledge....well, with affortable price. Since a lot of money

is gonna be wasted on film experiment.

 

I will look into your suggestion. Perhaps I will start to have some more tech question

instead of what to buy question! Thank you.