Richter TLR 3 Ruby Windows

[dean_lastoria]

Hi:

I have a 120 TRL which is quite a bit smaller than a Rolliflex but I

am having trouble using it because of its 3 windows. They are labeled

top to bottom (1,3,5,7) (2,4,6,8) and (1,3,5,7) -- it is a square

format. I tried to follow the sequence and got 4 double exposures and

4 blank frames. I also thought I'd get more that 8 exposures on a 2x2?

I will try to put a picture on this for illustration, but my only nod

to digital is my camera on my PDA -- and that's as far as I'll go

with that!

Thanks

 

Dean<div></div>

[dean_lastoria]

And here is the front view, but there is no real label -- again, I am using my palm pilot for the picture. I guess I didn't ask the question -- does anyone know how to use the little windows, or can I just use the middle one like normal -- I've tried rolling an old roll through, but my brain isn't clicking.

 

Thanks

Dean<div></div>

[mskovacs]

I haven't seen one of these but I'm going to take a guess that the windows are to provide proper spacing of 6x6 frames using the 6x9 numbers on the rollfilm. Back in the early days, 120 rollfilm only had numbers printed for 6x9 spacing. Later rows were added for 6x4.5 and 6x6 and dedicated red windows from those formats could be installed in cameras.

 

You often see two windows a lot with older 6x4.5 cameras (half frame 6x9). You wind the number 1 to one window, shoot, wind the number 1 to the second window, shoot, wind the number 2 to the first window, und so weite.

 

I'm trying to envision this mentally, but there is probably some similar winding sequence that you need to use. E.g. #1 bottom, #1 top, #2 center, #3 bottom, #3 top, #4 center, und so weite. Likely someone here will weigh in with more than a guess.

[twoliver]

Looks like you have a version of the Trumpfreflex which was basically a Richter Reflecta sold in the USA by SEARS around 1939-40. The nameplate is missing on your camera, but the lens/shutter configuration looks a lot like it. I can't tell from the photo but does it have the Meyer 7.3cm f3.5 Trioplan lens and a Compur shutter? I can't answer your frame spacing question directly, but thought the identification of your exact model might assist you or another forum user with finding an answer or maybe a manual via internet search.

[dean_lastoria]

Mike:

Thanks for the 6x9 converter window thought. At least now I have some logic to start from -- I just couldn't wrap my mind around it.

 

Mr. Oliver:

You are correct about the lens! 7.3cm 3.5 Meyer Gorlitz in a Compur. The only label is "F.Deckel-Munchen" on the shutter, a "Made in Germany" on the pop-up hood, and a really nice boilerplate DOF chart.

 

My dealer, Mr. Equinox, said it is a Richter so I believe him implicitly -- though if it is a Trumpflex then I will have an even better time watching TV on Thursday nights and rather then "say cheese" I'll say "You're Fired!".

 

Thanks again,

 

Dean

[mskovacs]

Get a piece of 120 paper backing from a developed roll and see if any sequence using the red windows on the 6x9 line results in 6x6 spacing.

[connealy]

What an interesting camera. The Trioplan is a very nice lens, so I think it is worth a little trouble to sort out the film transport. It seems like sacrificing a roll of film to really map out the framing would be an economical way to proceed in terms of time and aggravation. It does look like the windows are lined up to track the 6x9 numbering.<br>    A lot of cameras from that time were designed to offer two different formats from the same film size. Rollei and Yashica offered the possibility of shooting 6x6 and 35mm in their 120 tlr cameras. My Certo Dolly Super Sport has a three window configuration for shooting either 6x6 or 6x4.5. That makes me wonder if maybe your camera could accept a mask which would provide alternate framing. In any case, I'll look forward to seeing some images from your find.

[tgh]

I'm a sucker for "pattern puzzles". So I laid a strip of 6x6 negatives down against a ruler and passed a paper backing from a roll of film to see where things fell. The red windows on your camera are probably 1.25 inches apart, from center to center for this to work.<p>

 

The pattern should work with:<p>

 

Frame 1, #1 shows in 1st window<br>

Frame 2, #1 shows in 3rd window<br>

Frame 3, #2 shows in 2nd window<br>

Frame 4, #3 shows in 1st window<br>

Frame 5, #3 shows in 3rd window<br>

Frame 6, #4 shows in 2nd window<br>

Frame 7, #5 shows in 1st window<br>

Frame 8, #5 shows in 3rd window<br>

Frame 9, #6 shows in 2nd window<br>

Frame 10, #7 shows in 1st window<br>

Frame 11, #7 shows in 3rd window<br>

Frame 12, #8 shows in 2nd window<p>

 

So you use odd numbers twice each, in the 1st and 3rd windows. Even numbers get used once in the middle window.<p>

 

This makes you realize just how much simpler things became when film makers started marking their films for 6x6 frame numbers.<p>

[silent1]

Todd has it right on the money -- odd numbers go in the first, then the third window, then even numbers in the middle one; following the sequence correctly will give you 12 exposures, as you expect.

 

When the square format first came out, 120 (aka B2) film had markings only for 6x9 -- the few "half frame" cameras had double windows, and the early top-end 6x6 cameras had a mechanical counter, so you didn't have to mess with the windows at all. But counters were expensive, so cut rate cameras had to find a way around it -- and you have it.

[dean_lastoria]

Thanks all for your help.

Todd, I will print off that sequence and laminate it and hang it from the strap.

Thanks again,

Dean

[twoliver]

Dean, Mr. Equinox was correct, it is a Richter in that this is the name of the company that manufactured the camera, but the model of this 'Richter' is definately the Trumpfreflex produced for Sears. Richter manufactured many different TLRs over the years such as the Vitaflex, Reflecta, Reflekta, and Ricaflex. Richter, the company, also changed names, it began as Merkel in 1900 by the late forties it was known as Kamera-Werk Tharandt, and in the 50's morphed into Welta. Asside from the complex framing system, you should get some acceptable results with that Trioplan. Once you work out the framing and get some correctly spaced negatives, please post them so we can see your efforts. I for one would be interested in seeing how this camera performs. Thanks for the post.