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300/4L Non-IS vs 300/4 IS


bestactionshots

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Phew! Just read most of the reviews from links. Bob you've done an excellent job with the review way back in '97. Back then I was still shooting with Canon A-1 believe it or not! <br>

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I'll be using this lens for hockey with 20D at ISO 3200 f/4 1/320sec along with monopod and no handheld here. It's a poor sports shooter gear kinda thing. Currently I'm using 200/2.8L from the players bench and it's just right and tight. I would like to have another shooting angle and moving to the stand hence needed 300mm. If this 300/4L can give the same sharpness and quick AF like 200/2.8L then I'm in cloud 9!<br>

<a href="http://www.bestactionshots.com">WWW.BESTACTIONSHOTS.COM</a>

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I got the 300/4L non-IS used (still quite expensive for me) and I find it an incredible sharp, contrasty and fast AF lens. I shot sharp pictures with a monopod down to 1/60s. Don't have first hand experience, but I would think the monopod makes IS more or less superfluous.

 

Also, if you shoot let's say 3 pics in continous mode instead of just one, you have the chance you'll get on sharp picture out of a series (someone here called this the "poor men's IS"). On the other hand, the price difference of a used non-IS (don't even know it's still sold new) and a new IS is not so large, so if you know you'll use the lens regularly, and without monopod, I think it would be better to save some money until you can get the IS version.

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Christof,

 

Your statement about is is rather inaccurate. Monopods and IS go together like anchovies and pizza! Using my 100-400 IS, I can safely hand hold the lens too 1/250th of a second. Ok so my hands are not very steady and I am using it on a 1.6x crop camera. Anyways, when I put my IS lens on a monopod, things get even better! I gain an additional two stops, and can safely use the lens at 1/60th of a second.

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Hi Best Action,

 

You know how the 20D has amazed you with the high iso performance, that is what IS

will do for tele use especially with a monopod. Don't forget you are useing an effective

480mm so your 320 shutter speed is marginal at best, this is the area I have found IS

to be most effective. I don't own either of the 300's you talk about but do own the

300 f2.8 IS and the 70-200 IS, the portrait I posted in the long thread was shot at 1/

60 sec at 200mm handheld. Don't underestimate the extra number of keepers and

sales you will get because of IS.

 

Take care, Scott.

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<p>When I first got my monopod, I tried using my 300/4L IS USM on it, both with IS on and IS off. I didn't take any photos; I just looked through the viewfinder, and quickly discovered there's no need to take photos to know that monopod+IS easily beats the monopod alone. The difference is immediately obvious. It can't completely replace a tripod, of course (the tripod is far more stable, and the monopod is incapable of holding the camera up on its own), but for the most part, my tripod now stays at home.</p>
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When I had 100-400L IS lens this past summer for all soccer games. The IS button was on Off position 100% of the time. I was using monopod and my shutter speed was around 800-1000 so IS feature didn't do me any good. One game I tried to handhold the darn thing for nearly 75 minutes and it was just not right.
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Whether you are serious about your stacking of 1.4 and 2.0 TC's with the 300 and your 1.6 crop camera is anyone's guess, but giving you the benefit of the doubt, let's get your math straight- Your end result is equivalent to a 840mm focal length to a standard 35mm frame then cropped by essentially 63%. Not 1344mm.

 

If you are serious, I'd love to see some sharp photos of that setup in action. I wonder if autofocus works at all, considering you are losing nearly four stops of light from f4?

 

rt

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Isaac is correct about the equivalent focal length of 1344 mm (that's what would be

required on a full-frame 35 mm film camera to achieve the same field of view on his 1.6X

DSLR). But..... whoooaaa! I, too, would love to see some sharp images with that

combination! VERY doubtful if AF would work but IS probably keeps going. It does for

me with a 500/4 with combined 1.4X and 2X, but I'd never try that combo except on a very

firm tripod at the highest shutter speed I could manage. The bottom left image on this

page (the <A HREF="http://biology.ucr.edu/personal/MACphotos/birds3/

baldeagle.html"> scratching eagle</A>) was done this way. It's reasonably sharp but I

would not want to enlarge it a lot.

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I am fully aware of the 840mm + crop. As the subsequent poster said, perhaps I should I have said equivalent FOV.

 

The term acceptably sharp will of course vary...<p>

 

<a href="http://www.photo.net/photo/1429748&size=lg">The image</a><p>

 

Not wildly exciting I know, and some CA is apparent, but it demonstrates what can be done with IS + Monopod. Not doable by IS alone nor Monopod alone. <p>

 

Focusing is a serious issue. The D30 viewfinder makes it very hard at F11. It was about 1 of 20 or so that came out in focus and relatively non-shaky. This isn't a reliable method by any means. <p>

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1) Yes, you do. The 300 F4L IS will focus beyond infinity. Where infinity focus lies on the focus scale depends on temperature.

 

2) I found that this didn't work so well.

 

Another question might be why? I have now got a tripod, but at the time I didn't. Unfortunately, the tripod recently broke, so back to square 1...

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