Nikon Flash Photography

[richard_knapp]

I do a lot of indoor, flash photography at colorful family events,

using the SB-28 with a stoffen diffuser, F100, Ekatcrhome 100VS

slide film, and typically the 17-35mm zoom or 20mm. (I just to the

85mm 1.4 for a holiday NAS fix, and will start trying that with a

flash as needed.)

 

I find this system quite forgiving, but I sometimes suffer from

harsh lighting and shadows.

 

I'm seeking to fine tune my technique, perhaps by getting a softer,

more natural look.

 

What tips can you give me about SB-28 angle, flash and exposure

settings, and diffuser use. Generally, I put the angle at 60

degrees (bounce flash) and keep the stoffen difuser on. (I shoot in

the TTL mode, fully automatic in the Program mode, spot metering. I

don't manually adjust aperature, shutter, or output levels on the

flash, because I don't really know how despite reading the SB-28

manaul 100 times).

 

To soften the shadows, should I stand the flash gun straigt up (and

loose the Stoffen but put the white card up)? Should I try reducing

the flash output levels, and how do you do that? Should I use the

built in diffuser instead of the Stoffen?

 

Lot's of little combos. Any tips? Any good Nikon flash manuals (that

B&H actually has in stock)?

 

Thanks so much.

[steve_levine]

You might try using the flash on a bracket, that holds the light about a foot above the lens.This, combined with keeping subjects away from walls, will all but eliminate shadows.Im not sure how wide a lens your SB28 unit will cover.You be could be getting "flash fall off", around the edges at 17mm?

 

Much is written about the "sto-fen".My tests, found these to be useless except under very specific circumstances.(Indoors with close walls & low ceilings,both painted white).Outdoors, the light from a 45` angled head ,has nothing to reflect off of.

[steve_muntz]

I think the main problem is that you're using spot metering. Put it on Matrix and you should be in good shape.

 

The F100 + SB28 is a great setup. Usually when I shoot a lot of flash shots I also use a bracket (Stroboframe Camera Flip) and no omnibounce or diffuser. The output is lower this way so the flash recycles quicker (other option is to get an external battery pack if this is a problem). With the omnibounce in TTL, you don't need to bounce it like you do in Auto mode. The effect of the omnibounce is best (my experience) with it bounced at 45 deg (60 shouldn't be too much different though) with a fairly low white ceiling.

 

Also, E100VS might be tough in a lot of situations. E100G or GX might be a better choice depending on what you're shooting - if you need chromes.

[james_ogara1]

What Steve said. Also, consider using in M or A vice P mode. I have read that these are more predictable with TTL flash.

[gregory_roush]

The program mode doesn't allow the slow shutter speeds necessary in low light situations. If the ambient light doesn't burn in, then the flash looks harsh and you can get ugly shadows. Take the next step and put the camera in manual mode. Meter for the ambient light in matrix mode, choosing an aperture and adjusting shutter speed until the meter is neutral or -0.5. Then shoot. Beware, shutter speeds can be pretty long. If the flash is still too strong, dial in some negative flash compensation until you like it.

[arnabdas]

You might want to try something like this

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<a href="http://rick_oleson.tripod.com/index-82.html">http://rick_oleson.tripod.com/index-82.html</a>

[ofey_kalakar]

Magic Lantern has an excellent book on the SB-28. To soften the image you may want to

consider a soft focus filter, like a Soft tar from Zeis. I haven't used the Ektachrome VS, but

doesn't this film saturate colors resulting in contrasty images? Have you tried Kodac Portra

or Fuji equivelent in order to soften the mood of the image?

[gaius1]

Trust the matrix meter, it is your friend!

[vuyisich]

I would say that it is the film that's causing your problems. I have shot identical scenes with Provia, Velvia, and Kodak 100VS, and Kodak has the narrowest exposure latitude. The contrast of the scene has to be very low. I would recommend switching to one of the Portra films, as they are supposed to be the best for portraits. Good luck.

[richard_knapp]

Thanks so much for your great input -- this is a wonderful service to me.

 

I'll experiment with Porta film instead of E100VS; definitely go with Matrix metering; look into better difusers than the probably worthless Sto-Fen; check out Magjic Latern; and maybe get a flash bracket.

 

Thanks again!