scotshot Posted December 25, 2004 Share Posted December 25, 2004 Hi, perhaps someone is using this combo EOS 300D and Portaflash series3 flash kit. Will i have any problems triggering the flash with hotshoe adaptor and sync cable. I heard there was a problem with thevoltage. Can anyone shed some "light" :0) on this. Thanks, Jim. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pok_hon_wally_yu Posted December 25, 2004 Share Posted December 25, 2004 Different people will have different experiences on how safe/unsafe the voltage is. If you want to be on the safe side, get a Wein Safe Sync adaptor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chaps Posted December 25, 2004 Share Posted December 25, 2004 You can check it with a voltmeter. Its is easy to do. Take it to your local camera store that sells pro strobes. Also to a search for "strobe sync voltage" on the internet and you will find a list of tested sync voltages for various strobes at botzilla. It is not a matter of using a sync cable - it is the trigger voltage of your strobe that must be checked. Good for you for wanting to practice "safe sync" - many people overlook this! -Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mahesh_bhagnari Posted December 26, 2004 Share Posted December 26, 2004 Use an infrared trigger.....it is the safest. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scotshot Posted December 26, 2004 Author Share Posted December 26, 2004 I think i might go for the infra red solution as it's less wires. Also I suppose i could use the built in flash to trigger the strobes. Thanks for the info everyone. Jim. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mormegil Posted December 27, 2004 Share Posted December 27, 2004 Built in flash to trigger the strobes has one major hangup: Pre-flash. The built in flash uses E-TTL, which has pre-flash to meter how much "real" flash will be used. The pre-flash fires before the shutter opens, BUT will trigger the studio strobes. Since there's only a split second between, the studio strobes don't usually have time to recharge, so you don't get a flash when the shutter is open. You have two ways around this. 1) Use FEC, hit the * button to fire the preflash, then wait a couple of seconds for the studio strobes to recharge, then take the second shot. You may also want to dial down the flash to make sure your built in flash doesn't contribute much to the shot (requires the Wasia hack). 2) Use a TTL only flash (like a Vivitar 730AF, goes to manual mode) or Manual setting (on a Sigma EF-500 Super DG), as manual mode has no preflash. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scotshot Posted December 27, 2004 Author Share Posted December 27, 2004 Jose, thanks for the advice as i had not thought about pre-flash. i will try using and old metz flash i have also no preflash will set it at f4 enough to trigger the flash but have the strobes set at f11-f16 so the metz will have no effect on the exposure. Thanks again, jim. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark_howells2 Posted December 29, 2004 Share Posted December 29, 2004 I thought that the problem is that the polarity that is required for a Canon camera is reversed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scotshot Posted December 31, 2004 Author Share Posted December 31, 2004 The polarity is reversed but i have an adapter that goes on the hot shoe of my EOS 1000fn and 100 and it fires the flash every time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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