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Sunset shots


idobelieve

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How do I get that perfect shot of the couple with a beautiful sunset behind

them? I took this shot at my latest wedding and had to do a lot of manipulation

to get it even to this point. Is it just a matter of exposing for the

background and flashing for the couple? I am still a newby to the on camera

flash thing...

Any links to tutorials would be lovely too.

 

Thanks--Michelle<div>00IO34-32896184.jpg.954dd254687b91d86403325a3836f4a9.jpg</div>

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I'd practice in your off time a lot. Try a reflector on the bride's side and off-camera fill from the groom's side at about 45 degrees, set to get full exposure of the couple, and underexpose the background by 1/3 to 1 stop to catch the sunset color. Play around with the setup until you're comfortable and know what to expect from your equipment. It looks here like your fill was confused by the over-bright background. You might get better exposure of the couple using center-weighted or spot metering using on-camera flash. I'd also suggest a slightly wider shot here to catch more of a full scene- get several shots and bracket your exposures to hedge your bets on these. Good luck.

 

-e-

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I would say expose for the background in manual mode, let TTL take care of the couple, compensate the flash if needed.

 

If you have more time, expose in manual for background, use a manual flash such as Lumedyne or Quantum and meter it for right exposure before taking a shot.

 

The closer the flash, the softer the light. (using a softbox helps get even softer light)

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"exposing for the background and flashing the couple"...exactly right. There are a couple of ways to do this. The quick and dirty way is to put the camera in aperture or shutter priority, possibly compensating the ambient metering in the minus direction to make the sky colors more saturated, and then letting the flash use it's automated metering to expose the couple, compensating it probably toward the plus side to overcome backlighting, which will fool the flash metering. You might have to go a lot toward the plus side.

 

Or, put the camera in manual mode, meter the part of the sky that is closest to middle gray with your partial or spot meter (in camera or handheld), transfer the settings to your camera, and again let the flash do it's thing (compensated) or calculate manual flash and set that. You can bracket toward pushing the ambient toward the underexposed, again, to make the sky saturated.

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Previous posters have made good suggestions about getting the shot right next time. However, there are some things you can do to help this image. You shot RAW, right? Please say yes. If so, you can make two images from your original RAW file. On the first image, under expose it by 1 - 2 stops to get some saturation in the sky. (The blown out areas behind the Groom's neck will require extra work.) Then create another image, this time increasing the exposure of the B&G until you get it where you want it. Put the two images in PS with the properly exposed B&G on top, then carefully, tediously, erase the sky portions of the B&G layer. I don't know if that will produce a successful image. Yes, it takes time. But that's the only way I know of to salvage the image.

 

Good Luck,

 

Phil

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Michelle, just a note on trying to fix this image. In looking at the pro's shots on the beach at my cousin's recent wedding, I personally didn't think they handled the sunset as well as they could have (not that I could have but they should have been able to). All my family who have seen the pro's shots, LOVE them especially the beach scenes. Point being, your client may love this shot as it is because it is better than the average P&S could do.

 

As for getting it right the first time...did you use the flash? I have been struggling with this also and have vowed that I won't really be "ready" until I can grab my gear and get that shot right. At that same cousin's wedding (as I was trying to refrain from taking pictures at my boyfirned's request) I wanted to get a quick shot of my pregnant sis and bro in law. I shot it and was REALLY disappointed in the shot without flash, so was "allowed to get my flash out and try again. The next was overexposed. "Just one more!" then I got it the best I could. It's not a classic sunset shot (since all would have been too impatient to have me set them up so that you could SEE the sunset) and not a perfect shot, but just a good sample of flash vs no flash and it was at "sunset time" - though i guess the technical theory is basically the same for any backlight except for sunset you want to underexpose it a bit to retain the color?

 

The pictures uploaded in reverse of my plan - so the third one was my first shot, second one my second and first, my last.

 

http://www.photo.net/photodb/folder?folder_id=508067

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Expose for the background and dial in -1.7 on your flash. Works great for all fill flash. I'd agree that getting the flash off-camera and to the side avoids flat looking flash images. Try any number of great flash accessories to get more flattering light [diffusers, mini soft boxes, etc.].

 

There's no end to the possibility, especially with Nikon and Canon's wireless flash systems.

 

Manipulating the combination of ambient light and flash produces images that vary widely in interpretation.

 

Get a couple of friends and shoot test shots, recording your exposures and variation. Spend some time deciding what you like; then try to replicate it and see if you're nailing the exposure.

 

I shoot some weddings by myself and work as a second shooter for an established photographer. One key learning after three years: there's no time to pay attention to the technical aspects of photography at a wedding if you're intent on getting quality images that please the client.

 

I shoot musicians and other low light subjects and work on flash technique all the time.

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In simple terms, the more flash output you have the darker and redder

the sky becomes. When you add a subject a good starting point would be to try around 125th/sec at about 5.6 and set the flast to ttl and see what you get. About every 30 seconds the light changes so keep the flash the same and just change the shutter speed. If really interested I can submit an example, but need to scan it so send an email if you would like a pic. Best regards

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1) Pretend the couple is Not There; they don't exist.

 

2) Dial in your exposure as though you are there by yourself taking a photo of the scene as the sun quietly sets ... you are capturing the scene so set exposure for the scene without the people.

 

3) Now, (leave your exposure setting as it is) Place the subject you want to capture in the scene and fire off a round of flash. If overexposed on the subjects then dial flash power down and the other way if underexposed.

 

4) Find a volunteer. Go into your backyard or somewhere close and borrow a willing body and practice.

 

Here's a shameless example of one I took a week or so back for an engagement session.<div>00IONf-32904984.jpg.507572f297989f018dafe2acd4890cb5.jpg</div>

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Here's my 'quick-fix' version in PS... this should be easier to adjust with the original file, but I think this helps a little with what you've got... not perfect, ind you, but coing along- I'll post the PSD file too if you want to explore the layering technique I've used here. I used three layers, masked the top two and selectively blended your couple onto the background after some curve adjustments (two brighter steps). I used the top layer for hihglights and the middle layer as my 'base exposure' for the couple. I've done a wee bit of selective color and contrast corrections on the top layer only, though you could use this more extensively throughout to tweak your tones a bit. I also brightened up the grass a bit to expand DR a little. This shot's not a total loss, though preparation and solid technique at exposure time will definitely cut down post-processing work. Good luck.

 

-e-<div>00IOVk-32908684.jpg.c5f0c8e05949be6f27ef472a4a2bca99.jpg</div>

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Now, my technique is not perfect by any stretch, but given more time I could improve on this by deadening the white flash highlights on the skin and making finer-tuned adjustments overall, but exposure-wise this may (or not) help you in the right direction. I'm assuming, of course, that you're using PS, otherwise this is moot. Here's the PSD file with my adjustments so far...
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Believe it or not this is where guide numbers can be usefull. After focusing look at the distance meter on your lens to get the distance, then set the camera on manual and dial down until you are a stop below your current f-stop. The advantage of this is that you will always be consistant and the meter can't be confused by what our subject is wearing (like a white dress).
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