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Classic Body?


terry_evans3

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If you are talking about a strictly mechanical camera, I would go with the Nikon F2. Personally, I prefer it with the DP-12 prism finder, though I shot somewhat happily with the DP-1 finder for years.

 

I know to say, "they don't make them like this any more", sounds trite, but it really is true; they just don't make them like this any more.

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Ahem...the "F1" is a Canon. The first Nikon is just plain "F".

 

Now, for an F2 - before you buy one with a suspect or unknown history, check with Sover Wong at http://www.geocities.com/sover_wong/Nikon_F2_Repair_Service.html

 

Sover overhauls F2's - and only F2's - and has bodies and prisms of every condition at very reasonable prices.

 

He is really worth checking out, believe me.

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The F3 or F3HP (High Eyepoint) is arguably the best manual focus Nikon ever made. It is small (hardly bigger than a Leica), bright and easy to use. The center-weighted metering is accurate. The wind lever is incredibly smooth. The only drawback is that it is a kludge to use with flash, since it takes a special mount.

 

The F and F2 have a sentimental appeal, but little else. They are even harder to use with flash than the F3. The entire back must be removed (and put someplace) to load and unload film. The shutter release is in an awkward position, is not nearly as smooth as the F3, and cannot accept a standard ISO shutter release cable. If you are on a nostalgia trip or are totally hung up about batteries, get an F/F2. Don't say you weren't warned.

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It's seldom mentioned but the regular F3, non-HP, already has a pretty high eyepoint,

about 19 or 20mm. That's adequate for most eyeglass wearers, the magnification is

higher for easier focusing and the camera is a little lighter and neater, plus the plain

F3s usuallly cost less. KEH has a no questions aked 14 day return policy. You could

order one of each and keep the one you like best.

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Would just like to correct Edward Ingold's incorrect comments (two comments above) regarding the F2.

 

He stated that the "F and F2 have a sentimental appeal, but little else. (snip) The entire back must be removed (and put someplace) to load and unload film. The shutter release is in an awkward position, is not nearly as smooth as the F3, and cannot accept a standard ISO shutter release cable. If you are on a nostalgia trip or are totally hung up about batteries, get an F/F2. Don't say you weren't warned."

 

On an F2, the back of the camera does not need to be removed to load film. It folds open just the same as the F3. The F2's shutter release is to the front of the top panel just like the F3, whereas the F's shutter release is to the rear and is awkward to use. I purchased the correct Nikon cable shutter release for my F2AS brand spanking new last year for the equivalent of US$10.00. The F2 is a very refined F, and is actually very simple and easy to use, plus it's even a nostalgia trip to boot!!

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Second the recommendation for the F3HP. I shot with an FE2 for 13 years and always used it in full manual mode. The 'A' Aperture Priority setting never seemed to give me good exposures. Not so with the F3HP. I can shoot all day with it in 'A' and get dead on exposures 99% of the time. It's truly amazing. I don't need Matrix metering at all with this thing. And it's tight and a joy to hold and use. It's the Leica of Nikons, they really hit the node when they built this one.

 

Dave

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Terry, I agree w/ Robert; you'll need to be more specific about your interests. Your inital statement (not a question) is vague. Manual focus is understood but mechanical (manual) or electronic body would be helpful, as the F3 is mechanical. 'Pro body' has come to mean different things to different people. Some consider(ed) the FM family of bodies to be 'pro' due in no small part to their reliability and battery-free operation. Tell us about lenses, accessories, interests, etc. that you are trying to accomodate.

 

A comprehensive look at many Nikon bodies can be found on the wonderful MIR site. A Google search, e.g. < Nikon F2SB mir > is a great place to start.

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I recommend the F3 or the F3HP, except for flash.

 

But the F2 has some minor advantages over the F3. The F2 shutter speed is stepless, so the shutter speed knob can be used between the detents. F2s don't require batteries, and F2s can be maintained by independent repair shops, excepting the meter.

 

Above that, the F2 has a somewhat brighter viewfinder image because the F2 mirror doesn't pass any image luminance to a photocell at the bottom of the mirror box. As far as I know, F2s equipped with a Brite Screen give the brightest viewfinder image available in a 35mm SLR.

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I bought a magnificent F3HP for $250, it is wonderful. F3HP is a Highly recomended camera, but I prefer the Pentax LX for smoother wind, smaller size, lower ev metering, easier ISO dial in, lighter weight, etc. Plus, Pentax kust brought out a great dslr so the classic manual focus lenses such as 30mm 2.8, 50mm 1.4, 135mm 2.5 serve double duty...they are outstanding optics, and they're better made than the Nikkors, cheaper too!

 

Cheers.

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Thank you for all of the feedback. Basically, what I want to do may seem crazy, but I want to go back to fully manual cameras, just the shutter, lens, and handeld light meter. I would like a 35mm, Rollei 6x6, and 4x5 format. I want to have mint condition examples of old pro cameras with the best lenses. For me, photography is just a hobby and this will seem more like an art or craft. I also love extremely well built older pro grade cameras. Looking at and using them is part of the joy. Thanks, Terry
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Teery, if you really want high build and image quality go for a Linhof Technika. I owned the T70 briefly and very sadly parted with it. You can get amazing medium format cmaera ststems at low prices, so start looking and just think of the print you'll get if you use very slow film and a tripod! After all, I think there is a place for the old cameras, perhaps even alongside digital.

 

Cheers.

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