Non TTL fill flash with SB24 an FM2

[httpwww.photo.netphoto1664877429]

Even having read the owner"s manuals of the flash and the camera, I

am not sure how to use the flash for out door photography. What I am

doing is set the flash to M and the flash power to 1/8 or 1/16 that

means 6- 18 feet according to my subject distance. If I am using a

wide stop like f2 for a narrow DOF, some times the speed results over

my camera max. speed for flash. The question is should I use the A

mode in the flash instead? What can I do with the hight speed that I

have to use?

thank you in advance.

[joseph_smith3]

Hi Reynaldo, I used to own this flash and used it a lot in fill flash mode--where I wanted the ambient exposure to be set by the camera and the flash to be used to fill in the shadows. To do this with the SB-24, you push the M button to decouple the computer in the camera with the one in the flash. Just TTL shows on the back of the flash. I then set the flash compensation on the flash to a minus 1.7 or 2.0 or 1.3, depending on the amount of light needed. To determine ambient lighting, I set the switch on the sb-24 to rear curtain, not normal--this makes the flash go off last. This link ought to help you on all flash issues with Nikon cameras and Nikon flashes: http://www.moose395.net/howto/flash.html

 

Hope this helps in that I am not familiar with your particular camera body. Joe Smith

[craig_bridge]

If your ambient exposure is faster than x-sync and you want fill-flash, you are in need of a slower film, neutral density filter, or narrower aperture to reduce the shutter speed to allow sync. This is basic physics and independent of flash modes or light source ratios.

[mskovacs]

First of all he is using a manual camera. This limits him to manual flash or automatic (not TTL) flash.

 

The only solution is to use slower film and/or neutral density filters to get your shutter speed down to 1/250 (1/200 on an early FM2). Using slow film and NDs, you'll have to set the equivalent film speed on your flash. E.g. 100 speed film + 0.6 ND = 25 speed film equivalent. Then the calculator will show the correct distances and f/stops for automatic flash.

 

Unfortunately this means that you will need a lot of flash power to light a scene. With fill, you cheat a little because you don't normally require full power, usually -1.3 to -2.0. Your distances will be limited according to the effective film speed.

[david_h._hartman]

To make learning easier try shooting a good 100 ISO color

print film. Set the cameras film speed to ISO x 0.5 or EI

50 (IE means Exposure Index). Your basic Sunny f/16 exposure will

be 1/60th at f/14. By reciprocity you can have 1/250 at f/7.1 (you

might fudge this to f/5.6 as color negative film is quite

tolerant of over exposure). If you want shallower DOF youll

need a 4x (-2 stop) neutral density filter. That will get you to

about f/3.6. The reason for cutting the ISO film speed is the ISO

test standard assumes a short dynamic light range. You can and

should do the same for B&W, conventional and C-41 but not for

reversal films.<br>

<br>

Now set the film speed, EI 50 on the SB-24. The SB-24 is probably

putting out about 1 stop less than it says so try a 1:1 light

ration per the calculator for your first shoots. That should

actually -1 stop for the fill as the flash is likely over rated

about 1 stop. <br>

<br>

Focus and note the distance to the subject to be filled. Now

bracket the fill downwards, e.g. if "M" at 1/2 put the

line under 2m (6.5) then after a few shoots at 1/2 set 1/4

and 1/8. You can use the zoom feature to adjust the light level

but keep the zoom head at the focal length lens you are using or

a wider setting. Its most convenient to bracket your first

test using the 1/1~1/16 setting not the zoom head.<br>

<br>

Take notes and compare the notes to your photos. You might have

your test subject hold 3x5" index cards to indicate the

manual power setting 1/1~1/16 and fill ratio.<br>

<br>

If you can test your SB-24 with a flash meter and find that it is

one stop under what the calculators indicates you might prefer

setting the ISO on your speedlight at EI 25. That's what I used to

do with my old Vivitar 285 and my SB-15(s) are marked ISO x 0.5.

My SB-24 and two SB-16 and SB-15 are all underexposing about 1

stop on manual per my Minolta Flash Meter III(s).<br>

<br>

When you get comfortable with color negative or B&W then you

can go on to the more demanding reversal films.<br>

<br>

Regards,<br>

<br>

Dave Hartman.

[david_h._hartman]

OK, it's late "f/14" above SHB "f/18." This is my dyslexia telling me to get to bed (opposites).

[david_h._hartman]

No, I got it right the first time, one third faster shutter speed, one third wider aperture.