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Istanbul Tips and Current Conditions


brad_bell

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I will be in Istanbul for just 2 days. I have searched photo.net for

related threads but haven't found many posts in the past 2 years. Has

anyone beed there recently? How is the political climate? Crime rate?

 

Also, any updated tips on the best time of day to shoot specific

sights, or a great place to catch the sunset, etc. would be greatly

appreciated.

 

Are tripods still not allowed in the mosques?

 

I will be carrying a D100, 12-24, 50 1.2, 70-200 VR and a Sigma 28-70

plus my SB-800 and a lightweight tripod.

 

Thanks!

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Istanbul is a beautiful European city which will surprise you with its modernness as well as virginity where tradition is concerned - meaning you could find a variety of scenery - historical or modern.

Any time of the day might be best for shooting, depending on where you are. Here are some tips: Sun-set or night time are ideal for shooting the Bosphorus (Maiden Tower, The Bridge etc.). Also, a trip to Sultanahmet would be nice afternoon. Taksim is good for people photography and night life :).

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Let me start by stating this; Turkey has never been more democratic or more restpectful of human rights than today, and this is clearly reflected in the EU Comission's (executive body) very recent decision to recommend to member countries to start negotiations with Turkey for full membership (although nobody expects that to materialize in less than 10-15 years). Needles to say, that is a significant vote of confidence in Turkey's political and economic stability.

 

Violent crime rate is significantly lower than similar size North American cities; that said, in a poor developing country mega-city, all that gear will draw a lot of attention. Do not leave your photo gear unattended even for a second.

 

You really really need to study a good travel guide and decide for your self what to go after. I would strongly recommend the 'NEOS's Turkey guide - a very good and brief section on Istanbul. INSIGHT GUIDES - ISTANBUL is super detailed and comprehensive.

 

Istanbul is face to face with the typical problems of third world mega cities; think Mexico City, think Sao Paulo, although, not at those extreme levels. What sets Istanbul apart however, in every imaginable way, is its imperial legacy - it was the capital of two Empires that played for World domination. And during two separate eras that lasted centuries, first during the Byzantium Empire and again during the Ottoman Empire, it was the World's no:1 city. Like London was; like New York is.

 

Most photographers find that legacy irresistable, but it is elusive, and fast dissapearing. It is difficult to capture. In two days, maybe only a fraction of it will be revealed to you. Still, you are guaranteed to enjoy it.

 

Have Fun in Istanbul.<div>009bKR-19791684.jpg.08d4b10b5d70174d8fca374031d13a76.jpg</div>

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I visited Istanbul a few years ago and had a wonderful trip. As far as tripods and mosques, the policy varies. The larger and more popular ones have an area roped off for onlookers, and I used a small tripod without anyone seeming to be bothered by it. I did leave it unextended, so I stayed close to the ground and didn't make any noise. As long as you are quiet and unobtrusive, I would expect that you would not be bothered - remember that these are working places of worship. However, tripods were forbidden in at least some of the smaller mosques. In the two that I know of, there was no separated area for visitors, so I'm guessing that may have something to do with it.

 

It's a great city for a photographer - if you do some scouting during the day, you can get some splendid shots early at sunrise or at dusk. Some ideas: cross the bridge and shoot the older part of the city from a good vantage point on the opposing hillside, and take the boat ride up the river late in the afternoon. That was a really excellent trip (and you can do a nice hike at the northernmost stop, up to an old ruin on the hillside with nice views.

 

Have a great trip!

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As with any city in Eastern Europe or the Middle East the biggest danger by far is the traffic. Taksim Sq has always had a bad reputation for pickpockets but I never had any trouble and I don't think it's any worse than parts of London. Indeed, when I accidentally left my bag in a fleapit cafe near the souk, a young man chased after me to return it.

One place where you'll definitely need a tripod - and which is well worth a visit - is the Yerebetan Sarai. This is one of the vast underground water cisterns built by the Byzantine empire to provide fresh water during seiges. Last time I was there the Hagia Sophia was full of scaffolding which rather spoils the sense of space under the great dome - anyone know if it's still there?

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I was just in Istanbul this past March, and although I found the people to be very friendly and accomodating, there have also been two bombings since I left, one 1/2 block from my hotel. That said, it is a very stable country which receives a lot of tourists (although very few Americans). Istanbul is a busy, bustling city, but the old Ottomon Empire charms are still there. The crime rate is comparible to most large cities, with tourist areas prime targets, but I never felt unsafe. I have felt less safe in some US cities. Common sense is always your best bet.

 

I did not check about tripod rules in the mosques because I use Leicas and don't need tripods, but it would be considered highly disrespectful, I believe. Just push some Provia 400 to 640 and you'll be fine. On the outer grounds, it's no problem.

 

A nice sunset shot is from the ferry docks just to the east of the Galata Bridge, looking across the Bosphorus to Beyoglu. A good morning shot is found on the shore of Uskudar looking back towards Sultanahmet. The ferries start going across pretty early in the morning.

 

Some of my work can be seen here: www.keithdunlop.com

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