Are Cokin filters any good?

[kermit_howell]

I've been considering purchasing a Cokin filter set up. I was

interested in the graduated grey filter to help darken the sky on

overcast days. I'm also interested in the graduated blue, a star

filter, and multi image filter. Are Cokin filters any good? Are

they a waste of time? Will they work with my Canon 20D? Any

modifications needed to make them work with a 20D? I would

appreciate any opinions or information. Thank you.

[awindsor]

Cokin filters are merely OK. For special effects they are perfectly adequate. Their old

graduated grey filters have the reputation for not being neutral that is they will give a

colour cast to the image. No modifications are needed to make them work with your

20D though you will need a holder (A, P, X) and appropriate sized rings for mounting

the holder on the front of your lenses. My advice is to get either the P or the X holder.

 

I use Hi-Tech Filters from Formatt instead of Cokin. I also have a specially cut down

holder without a polarizer slot that is used for holding a single filter directly in front

of a wideangle lens. I used these filters with my film camera for black and white and

for slides. Obviously colour correction need not be done by filters any longer. The

black and white filters are moderately useful but for the most part you can emulate

their effect using the channel mixer and/or calculations in PhotoShop. The ND filters

are still useful though I have to say I rarely carry them anymore. When I shot slides I

used to carry 6 graduated neutral density filters.

[digitmstr]

Cokin is good but, if you don't mind my asking, why would you buy filters with a digital camera? I have sold my entire filter collection.

 

If you find yourself in a situation where the sky and land are too far off simply shoot RAW and develop TWO pictures, one for HIGHLIGHTS and one for the SHADOWS. You could use a pola filter from time to time but, I haven't used mine in over two years.

 

Since you camera shutter goes to 1/8000 chances are even ND filters won't be needed.

 

Cokin makes some very nice STAR filters, I have kept three of those, though I seldom use them.

 

Finally, the mutli-image filter...you know, it's up to you.

[ntiberius]

Graduated ND filters have their place, even on a 20D. Not everybody wants to have to sandwich or overlay multiple exposures in post-production; it's much more satsifying, simpler, and just as flexible to have *one* image in which everything's properly exposed.

 

I've been using a Tiffen circular graduated ND, and it's been great, but I too am looking at the Cokin system, which would give more flexibility in my filters. It's a pain in the ass to stack a threaded graduated ND on a circ polarizer... so I'm curious about people's experiences with the Cokin P system, or more expensive options.

[scott_sanford]

I agree very much with Neil-- polarizers and ND filters come in very handy from time to time and work very well on the 20D or 10D. Just because an image can be manipulated to death in post processing doesn't excuse a person from taking a photo correctly, the FIRST time. If you know how to use them, they work well. Otherwise, you might find yourself spending more time on the computer. I use Hoya and Tiffen filters, so no experience with Cokin.

[andrew robertson]

I don't think it's simpler or more satisfying to be forced to compose to your split ND

filters. If one shoots RAW with a digital camera, there's no need for multiple exposures,

either.

 

The only filter I'd get is a circular polarizer. Everything else has been pretty much

obsoleted by digital (with a few exceptions).

[awindsor]

I certainly favour shooting two shots rather the push/pulling a RAW file. It is

absolutely amazing how much detail you can extract from the shadows in a RAW file

(you have much less latitude in the highlights) but you do pay a price in noise. It is

not as bad as you would pay if you had simply used curves to open the shadows in PS

but ti is certainly noticaeble. If the composition is stationary and you are using a

tripod then you can bracket and combine the exposures. Taking a long exposure to

capture the shadow detail gives much less noise than using the RAW convert to give

positive exposure compensation after the fact. If you must take one exposure and

there is a relatively straight transition I think that a graduated ND filter will give you a

better result than shadow mining but they are a pain to use. The digital techniques

are more flexible.

 

I have a circular polarizer and just got a B+W #92 infrared filter. I still have lots of

filters which I use on my medium format camera. I have given up with colour

correction since I scan my slides anyway and colour correction is better done in post

processing.

[andy10]

Gosh.. this thread makes me feel that slowly photography is becoming a highly technical field.. much more like software programming..

 

Are we seeing a gradual death of old days photography for fun.. Now photographers spend less time taking the shot and more time post-processing them..

[derek_hammond1]

Anoop,

 

Speaking as someone who has spent many happy hours in the dark contibuting to the worlds heavy metal polution and producing one or two decent prints into the bargain, i have to say that photography is no more technical now than it has ever been!

It is far easier to correct exposure and colour balance electronically and then view the instant results - no more waiting up to an hour for a print to develop and dry only to find the colour still needs adjustment, or overdooing the dodgeing and burning and having to wait for the verdict before starting over.

Dont knock technology, grasp it and make it work for you

[digitmstr]

do NOT buy split/graduated circular filters! You won't be able to "shift" them and the split will always in the same position. With a sqaure filter you'll be able to move it up/down l/r and it's much more flexible.

 

Cokin makes a large variety of graudated filters.

[Jenifer Selwa Photography]

I still use my ND 0.6 and ND 0.9 when shooting waterfall shots in bright noon daylight to slow the water down, an effect you can't get with Photoshop after the fact...

 

<center>

<img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/2477050-md.jpg">

</center>

<center>

Little Pigeon River, Smoky Mountains, 10 seconds with ND 0.9

</center>

[kermit_howell]

Jen, that is a beautiful photo of the river.

[ntiberius]

Interesting responses, but I'm still going to ask the question of the OP: Cokin filters? Any good? P system, X-Pro system, Resin filters or Gel? For those of us who do want to pursue this route, what are the caveats and recommendations?

[digitmstr]

I used the COKIN P resin filters and they are very good, as I have said. That's the size you should get.

 

Caveats: you only need to get ND & Pola, the rest (CC, etc...) are not *necessary* since PS can do better. But, it's up to you...

 

Rec: get the hood as well to keep stray light out and get a case to carry them in. You could start with a couple of ND, a couple of grads (ND) a Pola and a Star 4/8 if you like. That's pretty cheap (except for the Pola filter).

[awindsor]

I am confused by your earlier statement that since the shutter speed goes up to 1/

8000 you won't need ND filters. ND filters are used to give you longer exposure times

with a given aperture usually for the purpose of creating motion blur like in the nice

picture above.

 

Do you recommend the Cokin Polarizer ? I have one and it is huge hunk of glass. I

think it has a perceptible effect on image quality. I don't use it much. Only when I

want to combine polarization with ND grads on a normal or longer lens. Otherwise I

have a Hoya HMC Polarizer.