Going from 35mm to MF (Dumb questions)

[michael_ervolina]

I am making the jump to MF from 35mm. I am used to the cartrage

system of film that is used in 35mm. Of course now I have a roll of

film with no cartage to protect it after I have taken my pictures.

 

What is the best way to handle 12o film after exposure to protect

it? I know its a dumb question, I guess I should have asked sooner.

Thanks for any help!

[bobatkins]

As a very infrequent MF shooter I either put it back in the original box and/or I wrap it in aluminum foil. I don't know if this is neccesary, but it certainly doesn't hurt.

[jhbeckman]

when the roll is finished, there's a piece of paper with dry adhesive backing (like stamps used to have, and many envelopes still do). You lick it, and wrap it around the roll. Then put it in a pouch of some sort. No problem

 

For me, the difficulty in this regard going from 35 to MF was not the unloading, it was the loading. Modern cameras in particular, with their automatic take ups, makes proper take-up of the film VERY easy. With roll film, you have to be more careful that the film is properly aligned on the take-up spool, otherwise you'll get wrinkling and crimping at one end, and that can be pretty, if not ruinous.

 

I hope this is responsive

[pdumais]

I've never handled 120 rolls any differently than cartridges.

I throw them in my bag when I'm done, keep them away from water

and dust...

[jhbeckman]

"...pretty BAD, if not ruinous."

[godfrey]

What I've found is that 120 film can be subject to edge fogging if

handled in direct sunlight, so I'd recommend unloading and

loading only in subdued light or shade when outdoors, and

putting it in a box or bag after removing it from the camera.

Wrapping it with aluminum foil can't hurt but is kind of a pain to

deal with.

 

Godfrey

[ron_l]

Michael - that is a very good question. One I was going to ask myself. Having made the switch from 35mm to MF six months ago, I was not comfortable handling the roll film without any protection. Patrick's statement that he's "never handled 120 rolls any differently than cartridges" is way too casual for me. 35mm not only has a light tight metal cannister, it also comes with a hard plastic container that you can use to restore the exposed film. Roll film has neither of these and is subject to fogging on the edges as mentioned above. I actually went to B&H to look for aftermarket 120 plastic containers to transport exposed roll film but they didn't have any or even think any existed. So now I just save the cardboard box the film comes in and put it back in after it is exposed. I would love to hear if anyone has come across something better.

[carl smith]

I myself don't take much care to handle them any differently. The face that the film doesn't reach the edge helps, and also there's enough paper after the film that the film is well protected when you take it out. I make sure its tight enough and just stick the adhesive on it. I then head down to the basement to our lab and drop it off. I usually just carry it in a vest pocket. Nothing exciting.

[roger_michel]

there is NO question that 120 film must be handled differently in some respects than 35mm film. 120 film cannot be loaded/unloaded in direct sunlite without serious risk of fogging. In addition, spent 120 rolls, even titely wrapped and sealed with the attached tab, cannot be stored in even moderate lite for any length of time without risk of edge fogging -- especially if the film is stored on end. i recently prosecessed several rolls that had been left unnoticed for a month or so in a rather dark spot in my kitchen (no direct sun and only indirect incandescent lite). A few of the rolls had some edge fogging (tri-x processed normally). my advice is store spent 120 film in a lite-proof pouch until it is ready to be processed. i use a large changing bag that can accomodate forty or fifty rolls easily.

[john_bright]

Heres an easy one for all of you to try. Get two 35mm plastic containers(as supplied with film). Cut the top half of one off, below the middle, leaving the cap on and cut the bottom half of the other above the middle. Take your dimensions from the length of the 120-spool. Place the two halves together and stick with a couple of layers of PVC tape around the middle. I've been doing this for years and they work a treat.

[djphoto]

According to a thread in the archives of this forum ("Carrying Film on a Plane," 1999), Porter's Camera Store sells plastic snap-top containers for 120 film.

[Spearhead]

I often stick them in my pocket if I'm shooting quickly. Never seems to have hurt anything. I do try to protect against sunlight.

[john_bright]

After I had posted my reply above I realised that I had modified my own design recently. Just leave the bottom half complete and add 24mm of the top, including the cap from another.

[wayne_scott]

I went to the plumbing department of our local hardware store and purchased a scrap length of PVC and 4 PVC end caps. I cut 2 sections long enough to hold 3 rolls of 120 ea. I glued a cap on one end and left the other cap unglued. I don't have them with me right now, but I think they were 3/4" diameter. For under $5 I have film containers that I can toss into my camera bag at weddings, etc. and not worry about 120 film damage.

[tom_bowling1664874721]

There's a company in Guernsey which sells containers for 120 film 7dayshop.com. I use them for Delta 3200 but otherwise don't bother. Also you could eat a lot of Smarties, or whatever they're called in the us. Film fits nicely in the empty tube.

[tom_bowling1664874721]

Now I've found the container. They're called pro-stor and they are made by Peca Products, Janesville WI. I expect WI stands for somewhere in America, rather than Women's Institute.

[michael_ervolina]

I have gotten some great insight here and it was also helpful to realize that I was not the first person that met this challenge. I am looking forward to getting my second roll of MF developed (I am not even going to worry if there is anything worthwhile on the first roll other than fogging and a few exposures of the dark slide (oops!).

[garvey_p]

There is a guy on eBay who sells pill bottles that fit rollfilm perfectly. The only problem is, he sells them in lots of 6 dozen. I may be lazy, but not so lazy that I'd have 72 rolls of undeveloped film lying around. Anyway, he tells what size they are, so you could probably go out and find your own somewhere.

 

Garvey

[paul_kerfoot]

Michael

 

Acratech has some CNC machined 120/220 film containers which appear to be exactly what you need. They are not cheap, but if they are up to the standards of their balheads, they are very good. This is their web site: http://acratech.net/prod02.htm.

[abintraphoto]

WOW .... quite a variety of answers for you Michael!! ... Everything from duct tape and hot glue to CNC zircon encrusted solutions .... I'll bet these will protect you from Krytonite as well !!

 

I'm looking at the Porter's catalog now - the one mentioned earlier -

It's called a 'Pro-Stor Tube' - Porter's part # 15-0254 .... says they are waterproof, light proof, dust proof, crush proof and air tight .... doesn't mention Krytonite though. For 120 and 220 film - 1 roll per tube. Price indicated is $3.50 for a pack of 3 ....

 

Email - pcsgeneralmail@porters.com ...... website - www.porters.com

 

I've been told to use the adhesive supplied with the film and then put the exposed roll back into the box it came in and seal with tape as the adhesive can come loose.

 

I personally like the 3/4" PVC pipe with end caps idea .... I built my back ground paper stand with 1" pvc and assorted T's, 90 degree elbows, end caps, etc. Cost 13$ and takes down very easily and light weight .... just sit down and design out the size you want on paper then off to the hardware store.

 

Ken,

[john_hoang]

Before a shooting trip, I "steal" about 2' of aluminum foil from my wife's kitchen, fold it down until it's about the size of a small note pad, and... voila, I can protect about 10 rolls of 120 or 220, without weight, bulkiness, and it's "free"...

[scott f.]

I used to use the plastic cases that Mini M&Ms candy came in to store exposed rolls of 120 film. The cases are just the right size, and come with a handy flip-top lid. I didn't test them for water-tightness, but I suspect they would be at least moisture resistant. However, after shooting MF for a while, I just put the exposed roll in a jacket or pants pocket for developing later. Although it was a great excuse to eat a bunch of Mini M&Ms (they are great on ice cream), it became a hassle to keep up with all the cases. 120 rolls are suprisingly sturdy, and as long as you use a reasonable amount of care in handling, you will have no problems.

[tom_bowling1664874721]

Ah. Smarties = M&Ms. In fact, I think they're called that even in England now. Damn, I'm so old.

[q.g._de_bakker]

Has anyone mentioned using the black, lighttight plastic envelopes photographic paper comes in as a cheap and effective way of protecting exposed 120 rolls yet?

[none1]

I have been shooting 120 for over 25 years, almost always outdoors in sunlight (primarily landscape work). I find if I load and unload film with my back to the sun so the film is in the shade I have no problems. I have had some edge fogging if I got lazy and loaded in direct sun light but it rarely got to the image (just fogged the edges). I have probably had fewer than a dozen images affected in all the years and thousands of shots made. After I shoot the role I put it in my bag or pocket. I am sure that the various storage containers mentioned are great, but it is extra stuff to carry which is one of the issues with MF vs. 35mm anyway...My advice is forget the containers, be careful about how and when you load or unload and keep the weight in your bag down.