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Which Macro Focusing Rail?


soumya_simanta

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<p>

I want to buy a focusing rail and cannot decide between these two because both

of them priced in the same range.

</p>

 

 

<p>

<a href=� http://www.kirkphoto.com/supports.html#focusrail�> Kirk FR-1

269.95 USD + shipping </a> <br>

 

<a href=� http://www.reallyrightstuff.com/specialty/index.html#�>Really Right

Stuff B150-B Macro Focusing Rail 295 USD + shipping </a>

</p>

 

<p>

I have a Kirk BH-3 ball head and a Feisol CT-3402 carbon fiber tripod. I use D50

right now but eventually I�ll get a heavier body.

</p>

 

 

<p>

 

If owners can share their experience about each of them it would be nice.

I�m tending towards getting the Kirk FR-1 but was wondering if the RRS provides

any significant advantage for just a slightly higher price tag. Also, are there

any other good options to consider?

</p>

 

Thanks.

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I'd say RRS but my prior 3 attempts at purchasing this elusive premium product have been foiled because of their being out of stock. I then settled for a supposedly slightly inferior product - the Kirk FR-1 - but it has been perfectly adequate for my needs. At least Kirk were able to deliver what they advertised and I needed.
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I never knew Nikon made the PG-2. Thanks for the info. I would make sure that it would accommodate any camera or lens plate for my quick release system. I would make sure it could move in the directions you need--forward and backard or also sideways?

 

Re the RRS and Kirk models, make sure you understand exactly what each focusing rail is used for. I believe the RRS rail you have listed is designed for cameras only and not macro lenses with tripod collar mounts. It you have a 200mm macro lens that you want to mount to the rail, you might have to buy a different and more costly model from RRS which they will sell you for about double the price. The Kirk model takes either camera or lens plates and its quick release grip orientation can be turned 90 degrees. Kirk has another model that will not give you the precision setting knob, but it does give you the long rail the the QR grip that turns.

 

Another thing to consoder is whether you will need a brace sold by RRS and maybe Kirk, and the Nikon PN-11 tube. You mount the lens and camera to the brace and then mount the brace to the rail. These rigs are used for added stability and possibly greater magnification when mounting a camera and the shorter macro lens. Whenever I use my Nikon 105mm macro lens that does not have a tripod collar mount, I add the PN-11 tube to it that does have a tripod collar, and mount the brace with the lens and camera to my ballhead.

 

You might want to tell us what lens and ext tubes you will be most likely to use so we can give you the best advice.

 

If I were going to buy one of these for general nature work with a range of macro lenses from 50m to 200mm , I would get the one from Kirk you have listed. Personally I have not need the need for this investment. I do own braces, Pn-11 tubes, ext tubes, and a long lens plate that I just push by hand. Joe Smith

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I have used the PG-2 for some years now. Being made of an anodized wrought aluminum alloy, it is fairly light. If you use a camera body that has an extended battery compartment, like the F4S or F5, the rotating PG-2 mount will not be centric with the lens axis, so if switching between horizontal and vertical formats the camera will have to be realigned slightly. (I never found this to be much of a problem for most subjects.) The F3, F4 (4 cell version), and F6 allow rotation without realignment. The advantage of this mounting is that the magnification may be locked down by the upper knob while the whole assembly is racked very precisely by the lower geared pinion knob, and then locked as required. The total range of racking is over 380mm (~15") and can be made longer with an extender from Nikon.

 

Very Nice!

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The PG-2 is light, well made, and a handy gadget, save for one problem. It was obviously designed for film cameras having no LCD and menus, as the rotating mounting arrangement partially blocks the back of the camera. Personally, I tend to change menu settings frequently when I do macro work. It's pretty much useless for digital cameras!
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I'm about to buy the RRS B-150B myself. I like the way the clamp on the Kirk rotates, but that's not something that I need. The re-designed RRS seems superior in every other way to me: lever release clamp, robust lead-screw, and a stage release lever for quick positioning along the screw. FWIW, an older version of the RRS rail used a similar positioning mechanism to the Kirk.

 

BTW, I have a Nikon PG-2 available for sale. Excellent condition, $105 ($150 new at B&H). Please contact me privately.

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My first choice is the Novoflex Castle-L or Castle-Q. (I'm curious why Arnab said "non-Q").

 

The Kirk rail consists of a Kirk plate and clamp bolted to a rail made by the same unnamed source that makes the Adorama dual rail. I've used just about every rail mentioned in this thread (one exception, we'll get to in a minute) and I find that one to be the least stable. Considering that it sells for exactly the same price as a Novoflex Castle-Q, there's just no contest. Or you can bolt a Kirk clamp and plate to a better rail than what Kirk uses, and still come out cheaper.

 

The Novoflex midsize rails (two versions, Castle-L or Castle-Q) are a dream. They're sturdy, solid, and adjust easily. The bottom of the rail is machined as one long Arca dovetail (like the RRS rail). This gives it a lower profile (yet greater strength and stability) than bolting a plate onto a "stock" Bogen (or whoever Kirk gets theirs from) rail. You get to have your cake and eat it too: stronger, lighter, smaller, cheaper. Castle-Q has an integrated "sideways" Arca release like the Kirk or RRS rails. I actually prefer Castle-L, which has Novoflex's proprietary round quick release. I use that with a Markins clamp that is oriented fore and aft (like a lens plate), not sideways (like an RRS or Kirk camera plate). This lets me use it with my 200mm f4 micro Nikkor or my PN-11 tube. My cameras have Markins Arca plates, which lets them work with a fore-aft oriented clamp. The ergonomic advantages to having both camera plates and lens plates fore-aft are considerable.

 

http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00Fth7

http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1021&message=16346066

 

Novoflex is "the" macro equipment company, wonderful bellows and a line of focusing rails from the "mini" to the monster XL.

 

If you're out to save some money, the Bogen/Manfrotto 3419 Micro Positioning Plate is a lead screw drive macro plate considerably more stable than the one Kirk is using. You can get it at most camera stores for $90. Outfit it with a $50 Kirk PZ36 "universal" plate and a $60 Kirk QRC 2 and you've got a $200 rig that outperforms the $270 Kirk.

 

The new RRS sure looks slick, but I haven't got to try it yet, so I won't comment on its performance. Although I'm looking forward to giving one a "test drive", I won't own one, because I can't use it with my gear. As I mentioned, I have the ergonomic Markins Arca plates on all my cameras, and the wonderful RRS quick release clamp is, unfortunately, not compatible with Markins plates.

 

The PG-2 is nice, and the ability to revolve the camera is handy, but (as Conrad points out) it's only for film cameras, it will block the LCD on a DSLR.

 

I'll second Arnab's "Stay away from Velbon."

 

The Pentax rail is nice.

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Thanks for the info, Joseph. The Castel-Q could work well for my purposes and it's about $25 cheaper that the RRS.

 

If you try out the RRS, you might try try the B150-B Package. This provides an additional clamp with knob (not lever -- so it should work with Markins), oriented fore-aft, and mounted on a lateral rail. The combo should raise large bodies enough that they can rotate without hitting the focusing rail. At $425, it's not the cheapest option. I haven't had my hands on any of this stuff.

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  • 1 year later...

Hi Joseph

 

I had my eyes on the Kirk, but you convinced me otherwise.

 

With respect to the Novoflex Castle-L versus Castle-Q you had me thinking about this for a while. I've decided on the Q though, as it with an additional plate and clamp will also allow the orientation of the top clamp to go either way - left/right or front/back. A combined clamp with plate (Giottos MH-656 Quick Release Assembly with MH-646 Plate) can be had for just 44 US$ (<a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/490030-REG/Giottos_MH656_MH_656_Quick_Release_Assembly.html

">Link</a>)

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  • 1 month later...
Of cause! Of all the combinations between my various lens plates and clamps this above was the only one that does not work :-( That is, a Giottos plate in the Castle-Q clamp. It simply does not fit. However, I had a spare Markins plate and combined with the Giottos clamp that made a very nice "orientation inverter". Nice focussing rail by the way - that Castle-Q!
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  • 2 years later...
<p>This post is too late for the OP, but might be useful to others. I am returning by B150-B focusing rail, which now costs US $345. The screw focusing mechanism has 1/2 turn of backlash owing to a sloppy fit of the screw carrier, and this drove me crazy when I attempted to use it. I need a rail with no play so I can focus forward and then back to achieve the optimal focus. This is a fairly standard procedure. I might look at the Kirk, which has a rack and pinion mechanism. </p>
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  • 3 weeks later...

<p>William, you must have received a bad copy. My new B150-B rail has NO perceivable slop in the gear mechanism, certainly not 1/2 turn, not even 1/64 turn. I suppose something like that is magnified at the macro level, and of course any mechanical device working on a worm thread will naturally have some slop, so that the more serious problem of gear binding on extraneous grit is avoided. The RRS focusing rail is the most expensive that I know of, but it seems to be well designed and well built on my first look.</p>

<p>Dave</p>

 

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