john_smith83 Posted October 13, 2004 Share Posted October 13, 2004 I'm makin the jump to large format. I just won a old klunker 5x7 off ebay.Have been by my local pro shop and picked up some film holders and a Turner-Reich 7 1/2,12,18 lens which by the look of a 4x5 chrome that was shot with it is sharp to death. My question is has anyone shot Efke 25 and Efke 100 in cut film and if so which one gives you the best apparent sharpness.I have shot efke 25 in roll film and the 100 in cut film( same camera, same lens,same f-stop, same processing) and although I love the smooth no grain look of the 25 in a 2x3 the 100 seems to "look" sharper. Need to order a box of 5x7 and just wanted some input from those who know.Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete_caluori Posted October 14, 2004 Share Posted October 14, 2004 Either of those films will provide more than ample sharpness for fine art photographic prints. I suspect you observe Efke 25 as being sharper because of its contrast. Efke 25 is a very contrasty film and contrast will enhance the appearance of sharpness, but it doesn?t mean it is sharper. Both of these films are nice, but Efke 25 is more of a specialty film; it is not capable of great expansion/contraction and is best suited for low contrast scenes. I suggest you give PL100 a try in 5x7 and you won?t be disappointed. Regards, Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c_p_goerz Posted October 14, 2004 Share Posted October 14, 2004 The 100 will have a bit more grain than the 25 speed emulsion and have a bit more of an 'edge' to the grain giving an apparent visual sharpness greater than the lower speed film. The very excellent book by the recently deceased Barry Thornton called 'Edge of Darkness' goes into this quite a bit and is a must read. I have shot the 25 speed in 5x7 but only made contacts, I love the internal contrast that isn't there in such great amounts in the higher speed films(400+ ISO). It is a bit touchy to develop as even thirty seconds of development either side of 'normal'can make a difference. You never have to worry about getting flat shadows thats for sure. Perhaps a lower dilution of your normal developer may allow more control that would ease any fears of over/under timing development but since you are familiar with the emulsion already there is no need to explain that, sorry! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peter_black1 Posted October 14, 2004 Share Posted October 14, 2004 I've tried the 25 in Rodinal and the contrast was fierce. I knocked 33% off development for the second sheet and it was still too contrasty for me. I'd say the 100 is probably a better choice to start with. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
per_volquartz1 Posted October 14, 2004 Share Posted October 14, 2004 Process either film in Pyro (Rollo - or Pyrocat) and the results will blow you away! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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