shawngibson Posted September 14, 2004 Share Posted September 14, 2004 Picking up the 10D tomorrow, and I'm just curious if I'll be able to have it come on automatically after tweaking to work as follows (I'm a new Canon user, so the custom function stuff will probably take a little getting used to): 1) Manual aperture and shutter each on a separate dial, with the 9 degree 'spot'-type meter activated by pushing a button (hopefully the shutter), reading the reading, and setting my aperture and shutter from there. I'll figure out how to read a histogram, and all should be good since I do 'set-up' shooting usually, nothing really uncontrolled. 2)AF on a button different than the shutter, so I can focus with the centre sensor only (turn all the other sensors off). Once the focus is found, I can forget about it, recompose, and shoot when the moment is right? That's it, easy stuff for you guys, I'm sure... Shawn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
g_w2 Posted September 14, 2004 Share Posted September 14, 2004 Shawn, Who knows? Who cares? It is what it is. Have you used the camera? If not, try it out. If you like it, buy it. If not, don't buy it and get a different camera. To you and many others: Stop talking tech so much and take some pics. gw. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shawngibson Posted September 14, 2004 Author Share Posted September 14, 2004 Uhm, I like the camera, have played with it in the store, like the photographs I've seen from it and the Rebel, and I have plopped money down on it. It's hard to shoot with it, though, until I pick it up tomorrow. My questions were quite specific and I'm sorry if they were too technical for you. Anyone else feel like being a little less ignorant? Shawn. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdarko Posted September 14, 2004 Share Posted September 14, 2004 Short answer: Yes, you will be able to do all those things! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shawngibson Posted September 14, 2004 Author Share Posted September 14, 2004 Short answer is of course fine - thanks very much Jonny:) Shawn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdarko Posted September 14, 2004 Share Posted September 14, 2004 Well, at least if you have the camera in full manual mode. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shawngibson Posted September 14, 2004 Author Share Posted September 14, 2004 That's exactly what I'm hoping. Full manual and a look at the histogram, which I'm hearing is the best way to judge exposure if you have the time. Thanks a lot, Jonny. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clauder Posted September 14, 2004 Share Posted September 14, 2004 well shawn, you already got the short answer, the other short one is put the cam on manual mode, and partial metering, then you have shutter speed on the top dial and aperture on the quick dial (the back one), and metering is activated by the shutter button<br> Custom function 4 will put AF on the 3 button, and AE/AE lock on the shutter (depending on the setting you have AE lock or not)<br><br>hope thats what you're looking for! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clauder Posted September 14, 2004 Share Posted September 14, 2004 btw these settings are still active after turning the thing off/on Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shawngibson Posted September 14, 2004 Author Share Posted September 14, 2004 Yep, that's exactly what I'm looking for. Glad to know it's not going to get in the way, worrying about buttons and dials etc. for basic shooting. Shawn:) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andreas_carl Posted September 14, 2004 Share Posted September 14, 2004 Yes, you can do all those. BTW, the custom functions are not that hard, just spend an hour or so reading the manual and you will be happy! A Tip: Some users like to use the top focusing spot (rather than the center one) for single point focusing. The reason is, it has a SMALLER focusing area. The focus sensing area is always LARGER than what is indicated in the viewfinder, but the center spot is worst in that regard. Cheers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brad_w Posted September 14, 2004 Share Posted September 14, 2004 hi shawn, as everyone's said, your working method will be fine. you will need to set a custom function to move the AF to the *-button. I believe it's CF 4-1. (I have my 10D set that way but never change it so I'm not sure what the settings are.) There are also two ways to move the AF to the center focus point. The easiest way is just to lock it in with the AF select buttton/main dial. The other choice it the "reurn home" button next to the *. There is a CF associated with this button and it's functions but I don't recall which number. The manual actually does a good job explaining this. If you haven't yet, the manuals are downloadable pdf's at canon USA's website. fwiw, if you're experienced with exposures (sounds like you are) learning to read a histogram takes all of 5 minutes. maybe less. checking one takes about 2 or 3 seconds with the review feature turned on and maybe 15 or 20 seconds with review off, since the image needs to write to the card before it can be reviewed. -brad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shawngibson Posted September 14, 2004 Author Share Posted September 14, 2004 >>Some users like to use the top focusing spot (rather than the center one) for single point focusing. The reason is, it has a SMALLER focusing area. Excellent to know, and I'll definitely set it up like that. Thanks Andreas. >>If you haven't yet, the manuals are downloadable pdf's at canon USA's website. I actually didn't even look:( I'll go now. >>fwiw, if you're experienced with exposures (sounds like you are) learning to read a histogram takes all of 5 minutes. maybe less. checking one takes about 2 or 3 seconds with the review feature turned on and maybe 15 or 20 seconds with review off, since the image needs to write to the card before it can be reviewed. That's great to know, I'm hoping to get a few test shots in for each lighting setup, then to just shoot away till I'm out of card, dump to the laptop, and start over. Hopefully the first few shots dial in well with the histogram use. As always, once it's in my hands, I'm sure it'll have it's own way of working out regardless of what I want LOL. Thanks everyone:) Shawn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnlund Posted September 14, 2004 Share Posted September 14, 2004 <i>"Some users like to use the top focusing spot (rather than the center one) for single point focusing."</i><br/> <br/> This surprises me, since the center cross-sensor is supposed to be more accurate, but I'll certainly try this technique. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrew robertson Posted September 14, 2004 Share Posted September 14, 2004 You can use CF-4 and CF-13 to make the assist button (to the left of the * button) AF on a previously chosen point, or all points. The way I have my camera set up is the * button gives AF on the center point, the assist button uses all points, and the shutter button is the AE lock. With a FTM lens, you have the equivalent of a manual focus camera with on- demand AF! The camera will most certainly NOT set the exposure for you in any way in M mode. The only way to get the exposure is to use the finger and thumb wheels. If it was set and then forgotten about, it will remain at the last setting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shawngibson Posted September 14, 2004 Author Share Posted September 14, 2004 >>The camera will most certainly NOT set the exposure for you in any way in M mode. The only way to get the exposure is to use the finger and thumb wheels. If it was set and then forgotten about, it will remain at the last setting. That's exactly what I'm hoping for, I set the aperture, and I set the shutter, based on a reading I take of a carefully chosen point (well, let's call it an area, at 9 degrees...) that I've compensated for as required. My background is developing rolls of black and white film (Tech Pan in PMK mostly) and a very basic zone-system approach. I know this is probably an archaic way of exposing, a lot more room for error on an 'average' shot maybe with me making the choices. But it's digital, an error is only a delete button away if the histogram sucks... However, there will certainly be lazy days, I'm sure, touristy moments inspired by alcohol maybe where I'll be very thankful I can set it all on "A"...he he. :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
digitmstr Posted September 14, 2004 Share Posted September 14, 2004 YES - that's the way I have mine setup and it suits me fine. The AF button will be the * (AE lock button) by stting CF4 to 1. Then, you'll use the shutter button to set the exposure (and hold it if you hold the shutter button). It works well and it's fast in action shoots. Enjoy your new camera! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guy ronkar Posted September 15, 2004 Share Posted September 15, 2004 <p>I think your question about the 10D has been completely answered... :-)</p> <p>If you want to learn about histograms, you can find a very good explanation at<br> http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/understanding-series/understanding-histograms.shtml</p> <p>Hope this helps...</p> Guy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shawngibson Posted September 18, 2004 Author Share Posted September 18, 2004 Your advice works. Thanks everyone. Everything seems to be working great. But I can't find the Tech Pan emulator mode :( Shawn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shawngibson Posted September 18, 2004 Author Share Posted September 18, 2004 Sorry, just feel like bragging - what a joy this setup is, faster than my F4, by far. I don't have to move my eye from the camera to adjust aperture or shutter, everything feels great, and the histogram is awesome! Only complaint so far is that it's a lot lighter than my F4, I'm not having the luck I thought I would at low shutter speeds handholding. But that's not a big concern, as I usually use flash, and I'm just playing around in a bar...(no, LOL, I'm not drinking, I'm sure the fuzziness is due to the weight...) Anyways...:) Shawn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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