jake_richardson Posted August 5, 2004 Share Posted August 5, 2004 So far I have shot about 9 images with a 4 x 5 camera....all landscapes. All at the same time of day. ASA 160. When i get the negs back i ask the photo store people how the look. they say 'thin'. underexposed or overexposed one stop. so is missing the 'correct' exposure by one stop a big problem? for 4 x 5 color film is it better to underexpose a stop than overexpose a stop? i'm getting my first 8 x 10 print today so maybe that will help figure things out by comparing the neg to the print. generally i use 1/100 @ f22 asa 160 cable release + tripod for a landscape around 6pm. thank you. jake r. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve_levine Posted August 5, 2004 Share Posted August 5, 2004 """is it better to underexpose a stop than overexpose a stop? """ Its actually best to correctly expose,and do neither one!Why are you having so much difficulty exposing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robert_davis2 Posted August 5, 2004 Share Posted August 5, 2004 "1/100 @ f22 asa 160" That doesn't compute. If it was mid day on a sunny day you'd be a little underexposed. Just using Sunny 16 to check your exposure it should be at best 1/80. But it's 6pm so 1/80 will be too fast a shutter speed. How did you come up with 1/100 @ f/22? The problem IMHO isn't that your off 1 stop it's that you've got nine negatives without one well exposed one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leonard_evens Posted August 5, 2004 Share Posted August 5, 2004 For negative film, color or bw, it is better to overexpose than to underexpose as long as you don't over do it. Modern negative films have quite a lot of latitude and highlights won't usually be wiped out with moderate overposure. Transparency film is much more critical, but there it is usually better to underexpose slightly than to overexpose, though a full stop might be too much. You should be using an exposure meter. General advice about exposure can be misleading, particularly at something like 6 pm. I shoot a lot of landscapes, some at 6 pm, and I generally use ISO 160 film or close to it. It is rare that I would be able to use a shutter speed as fast as 1/125 at f/22. I suspect you are grossly underexposed, but it is impossible to be sure without being there and checking the scene with an exposure meter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim_galvin Posted August 5, 2004 Share Posted August 5, 2004 I use Portra 160VC, usually half way between f/22 and f/32. My shutter speed ranges from about 1/5 to 1/25, to a second or so for sunsets. I find that ASA 100 is best for this film. Several of my shutters won't go as fast as 1/100! I's say you need to check your meter or meter technique. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d_g Posted August 6, 2004 Share Posted August 6, 2004 you should check your lightmeter, and your lens (speed and accurate f stop scale !)If you can't have your lens check locally, you should load a 35 mm camera with slide film, and taking pictures with your 2 cameras at the same time... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robert_hurd Posted August 6, 2004 Share Posted August 6, 2004 Hi, Jake, I'm learning 4x5, so I followed the advice of some other forum posts and spend the extra dollars to take half- and full-stop bracketed shots (if an image is important to me), and then later process and review them one at a time. I have enough to concentrate on in learning these tools to want the frustration of losing my hard-earned shot! :) Robt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
david_beal___richmond_hts. Posted August 6, 2004 Share Posted August 6, 2004 Jake, it depends on the film. However, until you have more experience with your camera and the specific film, don't guess -- use a meter. If you can, use an incident meter. If you have the money, buy a spot meter and read up on the Zone System (which is more limited for color negative emulsion than b/w, but that's another story). At least, use a general purpose reflectance meter. If you don't have one, you can buy a used Weston Master III for $30 or so on that on-line marketplace. If you have a 35 mm camera with a built-in meter, you can get a good approximation by fitting the camera with a lens as the same effective focal length as your lf (ex: 135 mm LF = approx. 45 mm focal length 35 mm) and setting the 35 mm to the same film speed. Remember, too, that the film speed on the box is almost always NOT the real film speed. Fuji Portrait Films are notorious for requiring extra exposure: shooting NPH400 at 250 and NPS160 at 100 is fairly common. You need to experiment and see what works for you. Good shooting. David Beal ** Memories Preserved Photography LLC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jake_richardson Posted August 6, 2004 Author Share Posted August 6, 2004 1/100 @f22 asa 160 i got a couple of decent exposures, and a pretty good print from on of them, but i believe the time was 4:30 or so not 6. i got in the habit of underexposing from using a digital rebel which to my eye tends to overexpose by 1-2 stops, maybe even more depending on conditions. i am still using the meter on the d-rebel and take a few pics as previews before shooting the crown graphic. so i will try 1/50 f22 and 1/50 f16. overall i am enjoying the differences with 4 x 5 to digital. with slower shutter speeds isn't there motion blur within the photo sometimes? and what about windy conditions using a tripod? i tend to want to use a higher shutter speed if there is a strong wind to stop camera vibration. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt_kime Posted August 9, 2004 Share Posted August 9, 2004 In my experience, color negative LOVES to be over exposed. most photographers i know shoot at least a stop over. i always meter for the shadows and have rarely had a problem with over exposure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adam_hartzler Posted August 14, 2004 Share Posted August 14, 2004 I highly recommend a spotmeter. I bit the bullet and purchased a 1* spot attachment to accompain my Sekonic L-358 (btw, no calibration is necessary mine is dead on.) This took all the guesswork out of metering landscapes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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