SOS! Minty Yashica Electro 35 GSN gift has problems

[lesged]

Found this camera's design began in 1968, so I feel it's legit to be

in the Classical Camera forum. Checked archive, but nothing fits my

problems.

 

A fishing buddy has seen me mix fishing with nature photography.

Yesterday, we both arrived at the parking lot together. The Russian-

born senior waved, went into his trunk and handed me a bag with a

near mint looking Yashica Electro 35 GSN and two small strobes. He

said a friend gave them to him and he had no use for any of the

items. I thanked him profusely as I heard a lot about this camera,

but never used one. As he went to his favorite spot, I checked out

the strobes. Found one without batteries, the other had them but

couldn't flash. No problem! both now work fine with fresh batteries.

But the camera, that's another story.

 

Tried to open back of Yashica, no luck, seemed locked shut. Checked

range-finder, nothing changed in viewfinder when focusing ran the

full range. Hmmm! At home, I opened up battery cap Ugh!! Corroded big

time. Carefully worked out battery, cleaned it with soda bicarb

solution;it's a 640. I cleaned upper battery compartment with same

juice minimally applied to tissue. I see the + sign of another

battery, but haven't gone deeper as yet. There is a white plastic

collar left in battery compartment and the battery I removed has a

solid metal horn shaped protrusion attached to it and its mating part

appears to be attached to top of battery below. Many years of

corrosion, I'd guess.

 

Should I put it on a shelf for show? Or, try to get the Yashica

Electro 35 GSN fixed? Is there hope to resuscitate this beauty? I've

read in my surfing today that there are many of these on e*** and

it's not worth having them fixed. But as it was a gift, what do you

think?

 

I'm timid to dig deeper to remove the other 1 or 2 batteries. I read

a stack of three can replace the tall original and now unavailable

battery. I'm fraid I may damage something unseen and this life-time

novice camera repair man may probe a little too much.

 

Appreciate any help. It looks so nice.

 

Les

 

P.S. Serial number is H92xx69

[john_smullen]

Well, any repairs should be done by you. The cost of having a rapairman do the work will far exceed the price of a working replacement.

 

You could try getting the remaining batteries out and cleaning it. With that much corrosion, I would expect the bottom terminal to be corroded as well. There is also the possibility that the corrosion worked its way into the camera itself.

 

There is a smaller 6 volt battery that with a small spring will work better than stacked silver oxide 1.5 volt cells.

[garrylewis747]

If you want to tackle it yourself here is a website to get you started~~

 

http://homepage.mac.com/mattdenton/photo/cameras/repairtips.html

[gene m]

There are many on "the bay." Here's a site that shows you how to repair the very problem you describe.

 

http://www.yashica-guy.com/document/repair.html

[jon_goodman1]

Hi, Les.

You have a stack of 4 640 batteries in there right now. They are 1.5 volts each, for a total of 6 volts, which will work in this camera. I'd go ahead and remove them, clean out the battery holder and see if you can get life out of it with 4 new ones...A640 is what you'll need to get. The white plastic thing is probably what was used to bind the 640 batteries together. With a little work, you can probably revive the camera. You'll likely find the light seals are shot. If you need a kit to fix that, I can help you on the cheap. Please feel free to contact me directly and let me know. Good luck.

 

Jon

[henricus]

Les,<p>

<a href="http://homepage.mac.com/mattdenton/photo/cameras/yashica_gsn.html">Matt Denton</a> has this camera in his collection and talks about this and other issues he has resolved with it.

[lesged]

Thanks all for info, links and advice re battery problem. I think I can handle that myself, even if it requires soldering in a jumper wire, but there are other problems:

 

1)The linkage that operates range-finder seems to be not connected or defective. I see a double image, but when I turn the focusing helix from 2.6 feet to infinity, the two images never move, never coincide. I have no experience with fixing range-finders.

 

2)I read that this camera has an automatic parallax correction, but I don't see the bright line frame move when I turn lens barrel through full distant range.

 

3) When I pull up rewind crank, the release that permits the camera's back to swing open isn't working. I presume that the non-hinged edge of the back is deformed or the mating clasp that secures it, is frozen. Should I gingerly work on parting line where the body and back meet at side of camera below flash socket? Or do I have to remove some screws and ....do what?

 

Thanks again for everyone's help.

 

Les

[george_shihanian]

I have a perfect Electro 35, but when I pull up on the rewind, it also _appears_ that nothing happens. The back DOES disengage, but doesn't "pop" open. A very slight touch of my finger does open it. Try gently prying it from the left side as you pull up on the rewind. See if it "wants to" open at all. Maybe the latch is frozen, or maybe the back is just stuck from not being opened in years. Maybe it's even stuck from the corrosion, either way, it's not worth fixing, so you can't really do any real damage now, can you?

[lesged]

Thanks everyone for your valuable info and advice and I have explored each one. I've got everything going except the rangefinder. Thanks to that last posting of George Shihanian, I found the back is not stuck at all, just shy. A gentle nudge at bottom left of back allows the back to open. As George related it doesn't pop open, you have to coach it to open The back and interior of camera are in pristine shape. Judging from the pressure plate, other parts and black finish, it looks as if very few rolls were used in this camera. When I say it's minty, I can say now it's about as brand new looking as a camera can be. It's only flaw is a slight burr at edge of battery slot.

I can work around the non functioning rangefinder by estimating distance the way I did in the Jurassic age of my youth, or use the depth of field scale to find and use hyperfocal distance. If there is no electronic damage internally, I'll shoot a roll immediately and post a pic or two showing off what I've heard is the fabulous Yashinon DX f1.9/45mm lens, which is in emaculate shape. I'm tickled pink! I'll have to do something nice for my Russian immigre fishing buddy, Vlad. Pleasant surprises are always a joyful event. When it happens in photography it's especially nice, right?

 

Thanks all!

 

Les

[ken_jeanette]

If all else fails, these make GREAT paperwieghts. Very impressive "leica" look. Or if you and Vlad do ice fishing, perhaps a sinker?

 

Enjoy!

[mskovacs]

If it were me, I'd have a go at the rangefinder repair. What's the worst that could happen?

[garrylewis747]

He could split his good image! }:^)>

[lesged]

I looked the gift horse in the mouth...and found corrosion. I counted my chicken before it hatched....the electrical system _isn't_ working.

BUT I can still use the camera manually thanks to the links to Matt Denton, who both Gary Lewis and Henry Chavez led me to. The one below had an immediate lifesaver for my SOS

 

http://homepage.mac.com/mattdenton/photo/cameras/yashica_gsn.html

 

The work around solution is under Matt's photo of his home made kit to use 4LR44 as substitution for stack of four LR44 1.5v, or defunct PX23 mercury battery. (BTW the latter is used in Yashica Guy's pat pend. adapter.) Matt's kit is foam wrap to increase diameter of slimmer replacement battery 4LR44 and a 50 cent conical spring to make up for its shorter length.

 

I tried Matt's kit after cleaning all electrical contact points and abrading camera mounted and store bought auxiliary spring. I got no signal from Electro 35 GSN's battery check, nor from the under and over exposure signal lights.

 

Then I saw the lifesaver, my work around in the last paragraph of Matt's article, about his Yashica Electro 35 GSN, that will allow me to go out and see what I can do with that highly regarded lens. I quote:

 

"To be fair, the supersharp lens on these cameras is so fast that if you just put 400 ASA film in it and shoot manually with the default speed of 1/500 ( e.g. the only one you get when there's no battery), you can get great pictures in most lighting situations following 'sunny f16 rule'...."

 

With that in the front of my mind, I taped on the back of my Electro 35 a detail of old EKC illustrated data sheet for Tri-X with appropriate f stop for 5 significant lighting conditions. I lowered each of the 5 light levels by one f stops to use my unique 1/500 sec instead of original data sheet's 1/250. I will use hyperfocal zones or estimate distance. I'll worry about repairing electrical system later, right now I'm eager to see what this lens will deliver.

 

I did find my 30 year old seals are not in great shape and cleaned up stray particles. I'm pscyhed to try it anyway. Will post results if not fogged.

 

BTW I can use on the Yashica any of a broad spectrum of 55mm filters from my Canon FD lenses and if the electric system is FUBAR, I can always use the 6 volt 4LR44, that I bought as Electro 35's battery replacement, in my A series Canon bodies.

 

The Yashica Electro 35 GSN sure is a mighty pretty camera. How fickle we lovers of classic cameras are. Well, maybe it only applies to me, but I doubt it.

 

Les

[david_grasby]

They sure are a fine camera. It would be good to see your results.

 

Just a quick note on the light-seals.

I've found (I also have a Yashica Electro 35 GSN) that you only need a seal on the end of the body where the hinge is. In other places, the door fits quite neatly into the slots and acts as a very effective light-trap. You DO need to clean the old deteriorated seals out, but after that just use a piece of felt (I used some from a discarded film-container) to seal the flat area on the camera body near the hinge. Use rubber cement, NOT Superglue, BTW.

 

It works for me.

 

Cheers,

 

David.

[george_shihanian]

My Electro 35 CC and FC use smaller batteries, but my GSN uses a PX32, (originally a mercury) not a 640. You may still be able to find an alkaline version of that battery- "PX32A", as I found a couple at Radio Shack about 2 years ago. Seems they were clearing them out at 1/2 price and I visited like 5 stores and found a couple. You may get lucky if you dig around the back of the battery display peg hooks.

 

BTW- does the mercury PX32 EVER die? I have one in its original yellow box (Japanese writing) which has to be from '68 or '70, and it still tests at full charge. I know they last for like 5 years even when installed in the camera, but this one is amazing, even though it was never used.

[lesged]

David,

 

Thanks for info re seals. I souped my first roll of 400 ISO film I put through the GSN and there's no sign of fog. Hurrah! I took note of how nicely the back fits into light baffled grooves, however, I?ll use your tip on sealing the end near latch. Will scan one of yesterday's shots later today, if one is worthy of display .

 

For yesterday's test roll, perforce, all exposures were taken @ 1/500 sec. I tried a strobe shot, and surprise, surprise--- it worked; the whole frame is there! But did it really synch at 1/500 sec? I read in a Yashica site that there is only one default speed and it's 1/500th. I placed the ring on lens barrel with 'B', 'AUTO' and flash symbol to the last position (lightning bolt symbol) when I took flash shot. Now, I'm scratching my head--did they make 35mm range-finder cameras in the 70s that synched at 1/500 sec? I know GSN?s Copal is a leaf shutter, but they didn't have such a high synch in the 70s, did they? And do they now? I know my SRL Canon FDs of the 80s do synch at all speeds with dedicated flash.. Come to think of it, so does my Canonet QL-17 IIIG with its dedicated Canonlite D, when usd in its auto mode.

 

 

Yesterday's negs look good. I've applied the 'f16 sunny rule.' by slightly altering the EKC picture data sheet I taped on camera's back. I changed the printed invariable "speed" of 1/250 sec and replaced it with 1/500 and the have adjusted iris settings to new f stop numbers that I taped over originals f stops, i.e. I proportionally opened the iris diaphragm up one stop larger, e.g. f16 is now f11. BTW-I didn't describe this well previously. Using terms 'larger' and 'smaller' can be confusing, e.g. the f number indicating the next larger f stop opening, is in fact a smaller numerical number.

 

Density is good, even under various light levels. Zone focus looks good, but I purposely didn't take close ups. Have to recalibrate my 78 year old eyes. No! left eye only, right one has macular hole and central vision is gonzo. Nice that almost every camera I have is designed for left eye viewing. A real lucky break. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

 

Thanks again George for another valuable input. You wrote:

 

"My Electro 35 CC and FC use smaller batteries, but my GSN uses a PX32, (originally a mercury) not a 640. You may still be able to find an alkaline version of that battery- "PX32A", as I found a couple at Radio Shack about 2 years ago....."

 

I saw PX32A for sale yesterday on eB**, @ $4.50 BIN, but s/h is high. Also saw other online battery companies selling PX23A. My take on the electrical problem is-- and I'm guessing- that there may be corrosion creep (my term.) Could be a break in a wire connection, a cold solder joint or new places that need corrosion elimination . Haven't gotten into the bowels of camera yet. I'm a bit skiddish, but will take off baseplate today and take a look see on a corrosion safari.

Re "640", I beg to report that the top battery I took out of my GSN (1 of 4 in stack) has 640 and symbol for positive (+), stamped into surface of inner disk and so does the second one, which I haven't taken out of stack. Size of individual battery: ~ 3/8" x 5/8" dia. The stack is encased in a white plastic sheath -looks like shrink wrap with bottom exposd for electrical contact. The legend printed in plastic in light red letters: "DURACELL Mercury Battery, PX32 5.6 volts." Dimension of reassembled stack is 1 13/16" x 5/8" dia plus a tad. The white plastic covering stops at shoulder of top of 640 battery.)

 

Question: Was the PX23 a long single battery? or an encased stack of four small ones? If the 640 isn't a mercury battery, I'm totally confused. Unless someone restuffed the plastic sheath with 4 non-mercury batteries. I thought I read somewhere--"Don't buy four 1.5v silver oxide batteries and then wrap them in cardboard; instead, buy Yashica_Guy's adapter that takes modern batteries easily available like 4LR44, which I understand he uses them and supplies one with his adapter" Never did find his price, even on Yashica_Guy's web site,

 

Response to your comment: "BTW- does the mercury PX32 EVER die? I have one in its original yellow box (Japanese writing) which has to be from '68 or '70, and it still tests at full charge."

 

I have mercury batteries in old Gossen meters that have worked fine since they made CdS powered meters. Ooops! Maybe some mercury police may break down my front door and cart them away, and me, too. Will they allow me to take my GSN with me? No! Not even if I show them it hasn't any battery in it? No again. Hmmmmm

 

Thanks everyone!

 

Les

 

[george_shihanian]

Les,

 

The PX32 was/is a single cell, looks like a slightly fatter and maybe shorter AA cell. If your battery compartment has a plastic sheath around a stack of button cells, what you may already have is the adapter to take silver or alkaline cells. I hope you can clean it all up and find the electrical problem, but the old sunny 16 rule will always work. I like the classic look of the images from these Yashica lenses.

[f1-fanatic]

Hello all. I just found the same camera in my childhood home while visiting my mother last weekend. I had a similar problem with the battery corroding but found no sign of intrusion into the camera itself. The battery was a PX32 and while I have no intent on sinking a large amount of money into the camera I would still be interested in seeing what kind of images it's capable of producing. I hear a lot about the lens and it's quality but does anyone out there have examples that they can post or Email me?

 

Thanks,

Norman

[jon_flanders]

Here's some shots I took with my GSN at a concert recently.

 

http://snow.prohosting.com/~jeflan/calais_04/Calais_2004.html

 

I have about five of these cameras. The main problem with them is that the battery wire that attaches to the base has to be soldered back on, or that the "pad of death" has fallen off and has to be replaced. I have sucessfully performed both operations. The sign of a pad of death problem is no clunk sound when you advance the film. Without this pad, the shutter timing has only two speeds, fast and bulb. The lights will look like they are working but the meter has lost control of the shutter. I really like this camera, its a keeper.

 

Jon Flanders<div></div>