gabriel_roca1 Posted November 10, 2004 Share Posted November 10, 2004 Hello everyone, I've been experimenting with pushing Tri-X to 1600 for quite some time - different developers, times, ASA, etc. In the end, however, I'm really not very happy with its pushing qualities. Thus, I've been looking into Neopan 1600. I haven't found too many posts regarding this film and am simply looking for some opinions, advice, sample images scanned from Neopan. Anything you might be able to offer would be most helpful. Many thanks and happy snaps. -Gabriel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
new hampshire john Posted November 10, 2004 Share Posted November 10, 2004 Did you try TX in Diafine? I found it superior to Neopan 1600 when rated at 1250 and souped in Diafine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rolfe_tessem Posted November 10, 2004 Share Posted November 10, 2004 You can get an honest 1600 out of Neopan 1600, IMHO. I develop in Xtol 1:1 and grain is only a tad stronger than Tri-X normal. The midrange tonality is especially good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gabriel_roca1 Posted November 10, 2004 Author Share Posted November 10, 2004 Hi there, As for the developers I've tried: D-76, Rodinol, Microphen . . . Nope, haven't tried Diafine - might I find some scanned examples in your profile? Thanks again. -Gabriel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
funkag Posted November 10, 2004 Share Posted November 10, 2004 I shot some at 1600 at a Red Sox game last year. I had it developed at a local lab with some pretty good results. Grain wasn't awful, but I did have some excessive contrast, but that should be controllable when working with it at home. Here's an example: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrew_hull Posted November 10, 2004 Share Posted November 10, 2004 Gabriel: A search of the archives yielded several threads on Neopan 1600. One had sample pictures of it souped in Xtol 1:3 adn they looked good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt_m__toronto_ Posted November 10, 2004 Share Posted November 10, 2004 for grain control, try the Kodak 3200 TMX. i love it. shoot it at 1600 and pull one stop or just process normal in d-76. click my name and check out my 'dive bars' photo gallery. all of those are 3200. cheers, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul a. roid Posted November 10, 2004 Share Posted November 10, 2004 <img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/2710157-lg.jpg"/><p>Tri-X @1600, developed in Diafine. Shot with a 35mm Summicron Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnmarkpainter Posted November 10, 2004 Share Posted November 10, 2004 Gabriel, The great thing about TX in Diafine is that you get Shadow detail. If you are shooting in Low contrast light howeer, your shots can be a bit flat. Conversely if you are shooting in High contrast light, it will compress it for you..nice. Here is a shot that I have. Shot in low light but gave a nice thick neg with plenty of shadow detail. jmp<div></div> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aric_rothman Posted November 10, 2004 Share Posted November 10, 2004 Just want to enter another vote for Tri-X in Diafine. I like it for twilight work. It's like liquid Energizer Bunny, too. It keeps going, and going, and... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gabriel_roca1 Posted November 10, 2004 Author Share Posted November 10, 2004 Hmm, I seem to be getting a great deal of responses for Diafine. Perhaps I'll give it a try. Any suggested development times for a starting point in experimentation? Thanks again for all of these responses. -Gabriel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeff_lu Posted November 10, 2004 Share Posted November 10, 2004 its a two bath developer...3 minutes in a, 3 minutes in b Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aric_rothman Posted November 10, 2004 Share Posted November 10, 2004 That's one of the great things about Diafine. As long as you observe the <i>minimum</i> bath times for both solutions (3 minutes, I think), stay within the loose bath temperature specification, and use the recommended speed for a given film, you'll get good results. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattalofs Posted November 10, 2004 Share Posted November 10, 2004 John's comments about the affects of scene contrast when shooting Tri-X in Diafine are right on. I primarily shoot Tri-X in diafine @1200 with and ND filter to take it down to 400 when needed. Most of the stuff on my website is tri-x in diafine, but here's some recent samples.<br> <center> <img src="http://www.1point4photography.com/documentary/roll57/images/570004.jpg"><br> <img src="http://www.1point4photography.com/documentary/roll57/images/570010.jpg"><br> <img src="http://www.1point4photography.com/documentary/roll55/images/550010.jpg"><br><br> </center> Neopan looks very similar in Diafine, and although the box says 2400, I usually rate it at 1600 unless the light is really contrasty. Here's a shot that was Neopan in Diafine, probably at 1600.<br> <center> <img src="http://www.1point4photography.com/documentary/roll23/images/Untitled-7.jpg"> </center><br> Given that neopan is at least twice as expensive as Tri-X, I usually don't shoot it unless I need something faster than 1600. Neopan @ 3200 in Microphen is very nice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fran_ois_courtois Posted November 10, 2004 Share Posted November 10, 2004 yes there are many good points about diafine, just mentioned above, which means you may mix several different films in the same bath since neither development times nor temperature are relevant any more<p>There is however one constraint: you do no longer select the film speed, only one exposure setting is available per film: trix is 1250, hp5 is 800, pan f is 80, fp4 is 400, etc ....<p>Kind Regards Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikal_grass Posted November 10, 2004 Share Posted November 10, 2004 Great film. Try it, you will love it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve_unsworth1 Posted November 10, 2004 Share Posted November 10, 2004 It's my fast speed of choice. This was taken a week or so ago and developed in Xtol 1:1. <img src="http://gallery.leica-users.org/albums/Musicians/musicians_02.jpg"> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ben z Posted November 10, 2004 Share Posted November 10, 2004 I recently asked a question on another forum and got a recommendation for TMY (T-Max 400)@1600 in Microphen. I am going to try some of that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maclean Posted November 10, 2004 Share Posted November 10, 2004 I just shot my first roll of Neopan 1600 last week at a club, here are a couple of the shots. (actually I pushed it to 3200 and developed in D-76). <img src=http://ndm77photography.com/Flow/FH000038.jpg><p> <img src=http://ndm77photography.com/Flow/FH000012.jpg><p> <img src=http://ndm77photography.com/Flow/FH000069.jpg><p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gabriel_roca1 Posted November 10, 2004 Author Share Posted November 10, 2004 Hmm, well, I seem to be getting a lot of votes for Diafine/Tri-X. I'm going to give this a try. 3 minutes does seem to be what I'm hearing from various sources - are we talking about 3 minutes at 68 degrees? I'm assuming so . . . Well, a hearty thank-you to you all for responding. Best, -Gabriel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike_elek Posted November 10, 2004 Share Posted November 10, 2004 Neil -- very nice work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neil_baylis Posted November 10, 2004 Share Posted November 10, 2004 Neil, these look like they had not enough exposure and too much development.. i.e., you're not really doing 3200 with this combo, you're just increasing the contrast. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattalofs Posted November 10, 2004 Share Posted November 10, 2004 Gabriel, Diafine is pretty forgiving with time and temp. I just go for 4 minutes with each batch and ignore the temp. I believe the box says at least 3 minutes and at least 68 degrees. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maclean Posted November 10, 2004 Share Posted November 10, 2004 Neil, that's certainly possible. I shot them with my Canon A2E, set ISO at 3200 and then developed in D76 for 14 minutes at 68 I believe. What's your opinion- I don't have too much experience developing my own film and shooting high speed, so I welcome any help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neil_baylis Posted November 10, 2004 Share Posted November 10, 2004 Neil M: Well, I don't know how to get a true 3200 out of Tri-X, but take a look at Matt M's Dive Bars series (mentioned above). He's shooting TMZ at 1600, which is only one stop from where you are. He's getting a nice range of tones there. Also, I'd be trying the Tri-X in Diafine to help deal with those highlights. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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