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Mamiya RZ questions


michael_vincent

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Hello again everyone. You may have seen my earlier posts about

choosing between the Mamiya RZ and the Bronica GS-1. (For those of

you who suggested to look into 4x5's, I did. Although they are the

ultimate for image quality, I think I am going to hold off for the

time being. Maybe in a few years I will move up to LF, but for now I

think MF is a good stepping stone for me.) Back to the point...I am

getting down to the nity gritty in my research, and I just had a

couple more questions for you RZ users. As always, I thank you in

advance for all of your helpful info/experience.

 

-First of all, can you tell me how the lenses you have used have

been? What lenses do you recommend? Which should I stay away from?

 

-Have you had any problems with paint chips getting into the barrel

of the lens? I have heard that this is a fairly common problem.

 

-Has anyone had experience with the tilt/shift adapter?

 

-How do the bellows hold up to the elements? (wind, rain, cold, etc.)

 

Thanks again, Mike

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1. "©an you tell me how the lenses you have used have been?"-

 

The lenses are as good as any MF lenses I've owned, which includes Hasselblad and Fuji.

 

2. "What lenses do you recommend?"-

 

I've never shot a bad Mamiya lens and I've owned the 50mm, 65mm, 90mm and 150mm. I got rid of the 90mm recently, as I hardly ever shot it.

 

3. "Have you had any problems with paint chips getting into the barrel of the lens(,) I have heard that this is a fairly common problem."-

 

I've never had or heard of this problem. Given that I've been in the photo business since before the RZ was made, it can't be all that common.

 

4. "How do the bellows hold up to the elements? (wind, rain, cold, etc.)"-

 

I've had drops of water get on the bellows on several occasions and it hasn't hurt the bellows. Understand, though, the RZ is a studio camera and I wouldn't put it up against my F5s for resistence to the elements.

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Hi Mike,

 

I have 2 RZs and 1 RZ Pro II. I have used RZs since 1992 when I traded my Hasselblads for the Mamiyas after using Hasselblads for 12 years for all my MF work. Ten years later I can honestly say it was my single best equipment decision.

 

The lenses are excellent, they are the foundation of any camera system and give nothing away to the Hasselbalds at all. I use the 50, 65, 110, 150, 180 and 250. I haven't heard of any to avoid, but then I haven't used any of the ones that I don't own.

 

I have never seen or even heard of a paint chip issue.

 

I use my cameras all over the world in all sorts of climates - I shoot exclusively location photographer now - and it amuses me that the RZ is dubbed a purely studio camera. I also drag around a Sinar P and have never had problems with either the RZs bellows or the LF cameras bellows. In thruth I've never really thought about it, but checking now, all three cameras bellows look almost like new!

 

I have flirted with the idea of replacing both my RZs and my Sinar with the Fuji GX680III and have rented that camera a few times for various jobs to see how it works. I have pretty much decided no to do the switch as I would probably still keep the RZs and the investment would be huge (15K+ for a complete system) and I have a big digital purchase just down the road also.

 

I can't comment on the tilt/shift adapter as I have no experience of it and I use 4x5 whenever I need movements.

 

Good luck, it's an excellent system.

 

John

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Hi Michael,

 

My experience parallels John's in many ways...former Hasselblad user, and I have the same set of lenses, they are all excellent in every way.

 

Including the 50mm, which seems to have some kind of vague stigma often repeated on photo.net about not being sharp...mine is sharp as hell and easily rivals the 65mm, which everyone raves about.

 

I have also used the 37mm fisheye and the 350 APO, which are both fantastic, and priced accordingly!

 

Zeiss seems to be the holy grail of lenses for many photographers (irrationally so in some cases) but the RZ glass easily equals anything from Germany I've ever used. They are also amazingly consistent from lens to lens for color and contrast, something I really appreciate.

 

They are extremely well built, and when you talk about shutter accuracy and consistency, they are miles ahead of the spring driven Zeiss lenses because they are electronically controlled from the body.

 

You can change lenses at will, use the top speeds, and all of your chromes will have consistent ambient exposures...something I could never count on with H'blad.

 

I'm not aware of any "dogs" in the current RZ lineup.

 

NEVER heard of the paint chip problem you mention.

 

I have no experience with the tilt/shift adapter, but I have a friend who shoots tabletop and he likes it.

 

Regarding the bellows, I have 2 RZII's, and they are used on location all the time, no problems to date.

 

I also find it odd that so many people repeat the mantra about it being a "studio" camera. Well, it is quite possibly the best studio camera in the business, but there sure are a lot of them being used out in the world for every imaginable type of location work.

 

And there the revolving back and electronic leaf shutters give them an edge over anything else I've tried.

 

In fact, I have only one complaint about it, and that is that it's heavy and hard to handhold, but what MF SLR that gives you a decent size neg isn't?

 

I could never get sharp pics handheld with a Hasselblad because I found the ergonomics so uncomfortable, and 645 just isn't worth the trouble to me.

 

If I'm going to go to all the effort and expense of shooting medium format for the image quality it provides, it only makes sense to lock it down on a tripod and then the weight becomes a moot point.

 

For better or worse, the RZ slaps me back to that conclusion when I get excited and start chasing the subject around with it!

 

Good luck with your decision...

 

MOSES SPARKS - STAFF PHOTOGRAPHER, UNIVERSAL STUDIOS

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I've owned the 37, 50, 65, 75 shift, 90, 127, 140 macro, 180, 360, and 100-200 zoom. Of the bunch, all except the 360 were excellent lenses, and yes, I'd say the 360 I had was a relative "dog". I never had (or heard of) a paint-chip issue with any of my RZ lenses. Never used the TS adapter. I regularly used my RZ in the field, and never had any problems with the bellows.

 

But, if you are looking for a field camera exclusively, I'm going to make one more push for a 4x5. Cheaper, lighter, bigger neg by three times, and quite frankly almost as easy to use in the field.

 

:-),

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Howdy,

 

I use the RZ and 110mm exclusively. NO other lenses. I have considered getting the 1.4x but haven't yet. The 110mm is spectacular, and with the close bellows focusing it is a lot more flexible than many other MF systems. I figure the 1.4x would give a little extra reach when I need it. You should try one lens and see how you like it. You can always add to it if you want, but the FREEDOM of little gear makes the basic RZ not bad at all for carying around. That said, I have been trying to sell mine and get another system. I am a confessed gearoholic (although I do shoot regularly!) and am trying to find my ultimate camera. I am SO close I am not sure I will get rid of the RZ. The only thing that MIGHT take its place would be the Rollei SL66E or the Hassy 203FE (I love 6x6). I really want to try the metered prism to take the RZ into AE land . .but the weight and bulk would kill it for me (thus, the incam metered bodies mentioned.)

 

Never heard of the paint chip thing.

As well as the Tilt/Shift, you might look into the Zoerk adapter.

 

I think everyones bellows are great because they live in the camera 99% of the time. If the weather sux, you probably aren't using it on a tripod outside . .you know?

 

Jeff G.

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Howdy Mike!

 

I have the RZ with 50, 65, 150, 180, 250. All are fabulous! I like it so much that i recently bought another RZ and 180 for my 13 year old daughter so we can go to the 'field' for some quality father and daughter time.

 

As far as which lenses i'd recommend... If you're flying to the next county, i'd recommend a piper cub; if your flying over the atlantic, then i'd say a Gulfstream V... whats your 'mission'???? after knowing this, and narrowing your expected shooting parameters a little , i could give my 2 cents worth. My friend MOSES SPARKS in Calif. has been extremely helpful and generous with his limited time through many e-mails, as well as all my photo.net friends.

 

The system is fabulous. I suggest you rent one for a week and try it. Let us know where you reside and one of us can point you in the right direction.

 

another note- the Pro RZ is going for less than half on the used market as the RZII.

 

best wishes dude!

m.

Dallas, Texas

mfa1@ix.netcom.com

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I've got the 50mm (not as sharp as the others) the 110mm and the 180m, both superb. No experience of tilt/shift, I use LF cameras for that, never heard of problems with paint chips. The only lens which I don't recommend is the soft focus. The lens itself is excellent but using it with the soft focus inserts is a pain.
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Regarding Jeff's post above on AE weight: The RZ with prism is about the same weight as the Rollei 6008i, though the Rollei is smaller.

 

I use the RZ with the 180 and 110 for portrait - both lenses are outstanding. I just purchased the discontinued 75LA and 50ULD but have not had enough opportunity to try them out.

 

Duncan Ross

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I have the 65, 110 and 250 lenses and they all produce super sharp images. The only lens I've heard complaints about (which I have personally never used) is the 50 and 360. Never heard of the paint chip problem.

 

I use the RZ outside of the studio as well. This is made comfortable with the aid of the L-grip. The L-grip should be sold as standard equipment with new RZs.

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The RZ-2 might be an excellent studio camera but I use mine mostly for indoor location work, and a few landscapes. I do not find it bulky or heavy. I wouldn't expose the bellows to rain, but it's a rugged reliable camera so I would expect it to hold up well. I use the 50, 65 and 110 lenses routinely, and hire the 75 shift and 180 lenses. All are excellent: in order of optical impressiveness I rank the best as the 75, 65 and 110. I've never heard of the paint chip problem. I tested the tilt-shift adaptor and the special 75 USB lens, and though they work very well, they're extremely expensive for what they offer; for the same money you could buy a used 75 shift lens, and a cheap used view camera offering more movements than the t/s adaptor. It's a very satisfactory workhorse system.
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Hi Mike,

I shoot both the RZII and the 645 Pro for MF as well as 4X5 in LF. Most of my work is done with the RZ and then the 4X5 for those tough interior shots and the 645 for candids and a lot of my own stuff. In the RZ I shoot the 110, the 75 shift, and the 180 sf. All three are dead on and extremely predictable. The 75 shift saves me from dragging out the LF about 1/2 the time. But theres some stuff you just need the swings and tilts on. And even though you see the 180 sf get flamed a lot on forums, if you use it by the numbers following Mamiya's advice on their site, it does exactly what it is supposed to do and I love the results as they "look" much sharper than using a soft filter. I do recomend the flip up magnifier with it though.

 

This may put to rest your "paint chip" worries. I also do a lot of outside location work with available light or a Metz. My prefered mode of getting there (I don't shoot weddings) is by Harley. So the RZ, lenses and flash all run a couple hundred miles at a time in the tour trunk and saddlebags of a Harley. Cold, warm, wet, or shine. I have never had any paint chipping in any of the lenes no matter what the age and the bellows still look like new, and yes I do still shoot when the weather sux.

 

Have to agree with a few others as to just go rent one and try it. The revolving backs would make it my favorite alone, but add in the bellows focusing and tack sharp leaf shutter lenses and it gets used for 90% of my shooting.

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