Me again - LF Field Camera for $1500

[g_guhan_gunaratnam2]

Ok,

 

I still havent decided what camera I want, and I'd like you guys to

help me think once again. I've decided the Shen Hao is out, right

now, a Tachihara and Wista are on my list. The Tachihara seems like

it is good enough for my needs, the only drawback for me seems to be

the lack of interchangeable bellows and no Graflock back. I don't

see myself going much wider than 65mm, I think the Tachihara will be

ok. I don't know how inconvenient not having a Graflock back is,

though I do plan on using Polaroid film to test exposures.

 

But there are still a lot of other cameras I have not considered. A

few months ago, I was looking at Toyos. I think I said "no" to them

due to the weight. I would like to keep it light. I do think if its

lighter, I'll use it more. So Toyo is out right?

 

What else should I look at?

 

In another of my posts somebody suggested an Ebony RW45, but I don't

really know why this is a better camera (other than being able to use

shorter and longer lenses). Like I said, 65mm lenses are short

enough, and 300mm lenses should be long enough.

 

I do go through buying frenzies on occasion, but I don't think I'll

be buying a new LF camera within 5 years. I'd like this one to last

at least that long, and not make me want to buy another within that

time.

 

When I've been comparing cameras, one of the things I've been

comparing have been the number of movements (and their degrees). But

I wonder which of the movements are more inclined towards product,

and architectural photography. Though I'm sure there will be one or

two buildings I'd like to photograph, landscapes and portraits will

be my primary subjects. Are there some movements I can do without?

Which ones?

 

Money isn't really a huge deal. I'm in no hurry to jump into this

and I can save for longer if necessary. I'm quite happy with my 35mm

gear, but I do want to move up to a larger negative, and I'm going to

leapfrog 120. If I can get a camera I'll love and grow with, one

lens and a meter (right now I'm thinking Pentax Digital Spot) for

$1500 I'd be happy - if its costs a little more - c'est la vie. For

me, cheaper is better, as long as I can stick with the one cheap

camera, I would rather not buy cheap, and then buy expensive a year

from now.

 

If you read all of that, thanks a lot. I know this post happens over

and over. Take care, any help is appreciated.

[tedharris]

Rigidity, rigidity, rigidity and rigidity .... that is the reason to go with the Ebony over the

others you are considering. It is lightweight and built like a tank. It will remain still and

rock solid in a light breeze. It will not balk at longer or heavier lenses. I can give you other

reasons to go with the Ebony but that is the main reason.

 

The Tachihara is a fine camera and as long as you are shooting with shorter/lightweight

lenses you will never have a problem. Even with hevier lenses you wull usually ot have a

problem but the Ebony is a camaera for all seasons and reasons (as are several others). If I

recall yoru earlier thread you were thinking about the Schneider Supper Symmar 110 XL

lens ... well, I would not want to use that on a Tachihara with much extension or much

possibility of vibration, etc. It is a heavier lens. You get the idea.

[steve_hamley]

G,

 

Graflock bars are used to hold accessories to the camera back, usually roll film holders. If you're not going to shoot roll film, a graflock back probably isn't that important. And there are IIRC, roll film backs that will slip under a regular spring back.

 

Weight is pretty much up to you. Different people have different weight tolerances. If you're normally fit and have a decent pack, a 6-7 pound camera is probably not unreasonable with light lenses.

 

The Ebony RW45 is just a high quality camera with a reasonable feature set at a reasonable price. You won't have to "move up" unless your stated expectations change.

 

If "buildings" doesn't mean interiors, you can probably do without rear rise and front and rear shift. People who do interiors and table-top product photograhy generally use full-featured monorails.

 

Steve

[edward_kimball]

G,

 

Why did you decide not to buy a Shen Hao?

[john_cook1]

Over the last forty years of commercial photography I have owned or used virtually every field and monorail camera from Minox to 11x14 Deardorff. Sinar, Toyo, Linhof, Cambo, the works.

 

Based on that hands-on experience, I'd recommend an Ebony RW45 if you want a high quality light weight field camera. Out in the field, you do not require all the very expensive movements found in their very expensive models. Generally speaking, they add weight and reduce stability. Only useful for table tops and interior architecture. If you require that much movement, you require a monorail camera.

 

I just bought another new one from Jeff at Badger. Don't think you can do better, either the camera or the dealer.

[sandy_king]

I would also be interested in why you eliminated the Shen-Hao. I recently

decided to purchase a new 5X7 camera and looked very carefully at every

new camea on the market and eventually concluded that the Shen-Hao 5X7

offered by far the most value for the money. And the major criteria for me were

how rigid and solid the camera sets up, range of movements, and bellows

draw, in that order of importance.

 

The Ebony is without doubt better made, but not by much, and the difference

in price is really significant.

 

If minimum weight and extreme bellows movement is the most important

factor, the Canham would be my choice, but of course it is far more expensive

than the Shen-Hao. And definitely not as rigid as the Ebony and Shen-Hao.

 

The wood field Tachhara is also nice, but really no match for the Shen-Hao by

my estimation. And cost is virtually the same.

[scott_peters]

I owned a Tachihara for field work. It was fantastic. I purchased a 180mm Rodenstock used for very little (great all around lens). With 4x5 you can really work with an image (i.e enlarge it). I rarely felt too limited. While never a problem with rigidity, I did opt for a Arca Swiss Discovery (heavier for sure) but very nice to work with and fine with a 90mm. You can find used Discovery's too for less than $1,000. You will want a steady tripod and a good head. The spot meter is a must. You can't go wrong with either one. I bought the meter, 180 lens, Tachihara 4x5, ready load back, magnifier 4x, all for less than $1500. All items were used except the meter and magnifier. The camera was $450 - never had a problem with the bellows or rigidity. You do have to maybe double check the tightness of your knobs prior to loading the ready load - I don't know how many times I forgot to tighten everything and then the camera moved when I put the ready load in :(. Sometimes I even forgot to tighten the tripod....Oh well. I will tell you this, I love the 4x5 over my 35 and 120, for lots of reasons....and I believe it has made me a better photographer for sure. For me, I would recommend getting a great all around lens with great glass....Sheider and Rodenstock multi-coats are wonerful. I have purchased all used and have been really happy. Have fun.

[brian_ellis3]

I owned a Tachihara for several years and was very happy with it. You can use a 65mm lens on a Tachihara, I tested one and it could be focused. I'm not sure how extensive the movements would be, I didn't buy the lens for other reasons, but it is usable. I also used a 300mm lens on the Tachihara. It too worked as long as you don't need to focus closer than about 10-12 feet.

 

Despite the fact that both lenses can be used, a 65mm lens and a 300mm lens are both on the absolute outer limit of the camera's bellows extension at either end. If it were me I would look at a camera with a longer bellows than the Tachihara to give yourself a little room for "error" on both ends of the spectrum. Same for the Shen Hao only worse there, my understanding is that it's only a 12 inch bellows (the Tachihara is 13) so you can't use a 300mm lens on it unless perhaps you go through some base tilt gyrations. It does accept a bag bellows so the 65mm presumably would be more usable than on the Tachihara.

 

Since money isn't a really huge deal I'd look at one of the camera brands with a longer bellows, maybe a Canham, Wisner, or the Ebony RW45 others have mentioned.

 

I also wouldn't spend much money on your first camera. You mention that you'd like to stick with the camera but no matter how much time and effort you put into selecting it, there' a strong likelihood that your first large format camera won't be your last. Few of us who have been doing this for any length of time are still using the first large format camera we bought as our primary camera.

[pvp]

I've got a Tachihara, and I love it. Currenty using 150mm and 254mm lenses. Got a 90mm on the way, drool... My 10" (254mm) lens is an f/4.5 so rather heavy, and I've never had any problem using it on the Tachi. The bellows can be limiting, though; the closest I can get with the 10" is around 5 feet (without movements.) IIRC, some folks with 300mm lenses claim they can focus to about 11 or 12 feet with the Tachihara.

[robert fox]

I second the opinions expressed by those who recommended the Ebony RW45. I've had one for 3 years and could not be happier. I also have a Pentax Digital Spot Meter, and would recommend that as well.

 

Regarding lenses, if you are going to start out with just one, get a 150mm to 180mm from a manufactuer of your choice. My personal thoughts are that the average (and I am certainly average) photographer could not tell the difference between one manufactuer or another - provided they are of recent manufacture.

 

Personally, I am a Fujinon fanatic which is probably a result of the phenomenal quaility of the transparancies my MF gear produced. I have - and still use - a Fuji GW690III and GSW690III. Fujinon glass along with their EBC coatings are truly fantastic. And yes, their LF lenses are every bit as good.

 

Just my opinions based on my own experience. Good luck with your decision !

 

Bob