Can I lock in the Bulb setting on my Rolleiflex 2.8E for startrail shots?

[j_woodson]

The rollei has the "B" setting for the shutter, but there is film in

the camera currently so I can't experiment, nor can I recall if that

setting can be locked in for a period of time. I will be trying for

startrail shots while on a ranch in west Texas this weekend and would

appreciate any input (regarding film, metering, and exposure length

too if you're inclined). Thanks in advance!

[christian deichert]

The camera has a socket for a cable release, right? Get a cable release that can lock in place. There may be a camera that has a locking bulb, but I've never seen one; this is always how I've done it.

[godfrey]

Many cameras have a T setting or some option to hold the

shutter open indefinitely after pressing the shutter release, but

I've never seen that on a Rolleiflex. Just get a locking cable

release and use B, that's all you need.

[pete_andrews]

I think most Rolleis, and the other TLRs that are clones of them, use a Leica type cable release with an outside threaded collar rather than the common tapered screw fit. This type of release may be a bit more difficult to find these days, but it's what you need to lock the shutter open on 'B'.<br>Try to get a cable release with a collar type lock, and not a set screw. Those set-screws are fiddly to use, and don't always lock securely.

[jerry_lehrer]

The shutter can be locked open on the "B" setting by swinging the

release lock outwards. Closed by swinging it back inwards.

 

No Rolleiflex TLR that I know of uses the old Leica SM type of

external threaded cable release socket. Some Japanese knock-offs

did.

 

Jerry

[j_woodson]

Thanks for the responses fellas. I inherited this camera and accessories from my Dad, and you have jogged my memory. There is a cable release in the camera bag which screws into place. It also has the thumb screw to hold the shutter open as well, so, I'll give it a try.

 

Any input on exposure length or film speed for star trail photos...?

Thanks again!

[mel_brown1]

Exposure is not especially critical--the larger the aperture, the brighter the trails, but if there is a lot of scatter light from a nearby city, you risk overexposure (resulting in a green sky), especially as the exposure time increases. The moon is full now, and may contribute to light pollution. Or it may be of significant help in providing "fill" light for the landscape.

 

A 4-hour exposure will yield trails covering a 60-degree arc. Naturally, shorter exposures will yield proportionately shorter arcs. A 4-hour shot is nice, but if you have only one camera, you get only one shot per night! A 1-hour, or even a 30-minute exposure will create a nice effect. It would be helpful if you could borrow another MF camera or two (most any old thing that takes 120 film and has a glass lens will do) along with a like number of tripods, so you can make more shots.

 

If possible, include Polaris, the North Star, in the frame, as it provides a fixed axis around which the others rotate.

 

At 1 hour, assuming no visible city lights, try ISO 100-200 film at f/5.6. If light pollution is evident, use f/8, and even cut the time to 30 minutes. If your composition includes trees or other objects in the foreground, you might try using multiple pops of a flash to "paint with light." After all, you won't have anything else to do for a while! Just don't overdo it to the point that the added lighting becomes painfully obvious.

 

Most of west Texas has dry night air, but if in doubt, monitor the lens, or the lens of another camera similarly exposed to the elements, for accumulation of water vapor. You can easily wipe it away periodically to keep the startrails sharp.

 

Out of curiosity, I did a quick Google search, and came up with this fine site: http://home.att.net/~nightscapes/. Be sure to check it out for some great photos and more exposure info.

[patric_dahl_n]

Godfrey DiGiorgi wrote:

 

"Many cameras have a T setting or some option to hold the shutter open indefinitely after pressing the shutter release, but I've never seen that on a Rolleiflex".

 

The Original and Standard Rolleiflexes from 1920-37 have the "T" setting. The 2,8 E doesn't, but has a locking lever on the shutter release button. But since using it can cause vibrations, I think that what you suggest is the best way to go:

 

"Just get a locking cable release and use B, that's all you need".

[j_woodson]

Thanks again for all of your responses. The cable release with thumb screw lockdown does work. As it turns out, the full moon this week end was very bright at times, with drifting cloud cover. So I set up on a ridge overlooking a valley and bracketed from 20 seconds to 2 minutes focusing on the landscape and horizon.....