david_haardt1 Posted March 22, 2002 Share Posted March 22, 2002 <p>Hello folks,</p> <p>I recently tested my new Rollei SL66 and seem to have film loading problems. Here's my problem:</p> <p>1) I have only six frames on my negatives (the last six to be exact)<br>2) They are overlapping about 1/3 of an inch (fully regularly)<br>3) The very last frame is cut off a bit<br>4) They are positioned at the frame numbers 1-8 although they are the last six frames on the roll (I took notes that's why I know it)</p> <p>To me, this seems as if I have mixed up something with the film position! Here's how I loaded the film:</p> <p>1) I cocked the shutter by using the film transport lever on the camera rotating it first clockwise until it stops and then counterclockwise until it click-stops<br>2) I set the film type to 12 exposures (type 120)<br>3) I opened the film back mounted onto the camera<br>4) the takeup spool being on the top (when viewing from behind the camera, so that one can read the "Made in Germany by Rollei" text on the film insert) I loaded the film into the "bottom"<br>5) then I turned a bit (about one full turn) using the gearwheel until I saw the arrow on the paper film backing<br>6) I inserted the film insert into the back<br>7) after shooting the roll, the film transport knob on the film back jumped out of the film back, I continued to turn the film transport lever on the camera until the end of the CW/CCW cycle, then I turned the film transport knob on the film back until I noticed no more resistance (which took quite a long time compared to my earlier Kiev-88CM, which made me a bit suspicious - could this have been a sign for my error?) and then I opened the magazine, took out the film from the top takeup spool and used the bottom old film spool to be the new takeup spool on the top</p> <p>So, that was quite long ;-) Does anybody know what I did wrong? I believe that I must have mixed up something, other wise I can't explain why only the last six frames are on the film, and positioned at the first frame numbers.</p> <p>Many thanks in advance!</p> <p>Best regards,</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg_jones1 Posted March 22, 2002 Share Posted March 22, 2002 David- I had an SL66 in the past, so I will diagnose from memory. I seem to recall on the SL66 that when you load the film, you wind the film until it stops using the knob on the film back. (Not with the film crank on the body.) The back has the famous Rollei film-feeler system that senses the increased thickness of the film as it passes through, and kicks in the counter system. In reading your instructions, I think you missed this step which would be consistent with you only getting the last frames on the roll. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt_m__toronto_ Posted March 22, 2002 Share Posted March 22, 2002 Hi David, I didn't notice you writing that after you closed the back (after you saw the arrow) that you advanced the film with the little pop out knob(not the shutter cocking wheel) until it stops. Hope I'm not confusing you as I have just gotten an sl66 and have read through the "loading" page a few times to get a hang of it. Other than that, ummmm all of your steps seem correct to me. Let me know how it turns out, as I'm about to get back some of my first results and I had the same winding concerns at the end of the roll. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edward_kleinbard Posted March 22, 2002 Share Posted March 22, 2002 David -- You're doing everything perfectly up through Step 6, but there's a Step 7 you're leaving out. After you close the back, keep winding with the little round film transport knob (in its popped-out position) until you can't wind any further. Then push the knob in. You should be all set. As a small footnote, for step 5 there's actually a small arrow on the removable film insert to show you where the arrow on the paper film leader should line up. And of course as you yourself note it's always important to cock the shutter (wind clockwise and then counterclockwise, as you said) before loading the film, and critically important to do so before detaching the film magazine from the camera body. Hope this helps. Edward Kleinbard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
david_haardt1 Posted March 22, 2002 Author Share Posted March 22, 2002 <p> Thank you very much for your answers. I am using the German SL66 manual (the seller gave me a copy of it, and I downloaded it as a PDF file as well), but I cannot find this step anywhere! On page 6 I read about film loading but I cannot find the step you described. Maybe I'm blind and/or crazy but... If somebody has the German manual, maybe they could tell me where to find that step so that my mind can rest relieved ;-) </p> <p> By the way at critical shutter times like 1/15 sec I can see (despite the overlapping *g*) a slight advantage with mirror lock-up although I used a tripod (Berlebach ashwood). </p> <p> Other remarks: <br> 1) lens quality (2.8/80 non-HFT Planar) seems to be stellar <br> 2) obviously not very prone to flare although I didn't use a shade (I'll probably buy a compendium soon) <br> 3) everything feels extremely precise and clever <br> 4) lots of useful features (true MLU - although you cannot really cancel it, the DOF preview which can be used with every lens and can be locked in place as well, the focusing knob with variable distance and DOF scales, the darkslide holder, etc.) <br> 5) the 8° tilt seem to be extremely useful as well </p> <p> As far as I can see from now, the only disadvantage seems to be the absence of an affordable (wide-angle) shift lens. And of course the absence of proper film loading by users like me ;-) </p> <p> Cheers, </p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frank_eley Posted March 24, 2002 Share Posted March 24, 2002 Dear David Page 7 of Rolleiflex SL66 manual E0767 says: "Advancing the film to exposure No. 1: Turn the magazine knob until it locks and then push in (16)". If you have not been doing this, that is your problem. The other respondants were absolutely correct in advising you of this step. The knob should go around a couple of times before it locks. Once I had a problem where the knob never locked and I wound the entire roll of film. The back failed to sense the little bump on the film that triggers the lock. But that was a long time ago. I bought my SL66 new in 1966. I still use it when I need big prints 96x96 inches or so. Great camera and great lenses. Incidentally, in the past I have had problems with my magazines. Have sent them back for repair more than once. You can easily check framing by wasting a roll of film. Load the camera and remove the lens. Shoot the 1st frame and lock the shutter open for the exosure of that frame. While the shutter is open take a ball point pen and draw on the film around the edges of the shutter opening and mark No. 1 on the film in the middle of the frame. Release the shutter and repeat this for the other 11 frames, marking the frame number for each exposure. Now unload the camera and examine the outlines on the film of the frames marked with the pen. The frames should be pretty evenly spaced. If you want to call me my phone is 423-622-8788 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john_stockdale2 Posted April 19, 2002 Share Posted April 19, 2002 I bought an sl66 recently with 2 magazines and had a problem: with one magazine the popped-out knob would keep turning, becoming rather stiff, until the end of the film. I posted a question here, and someone suggested that I check the screws on the removeable insert for tightness. They were ok, but one side plate of the insert was very slightly bent. I straightened it with some smooth pliers and the problem was solved. It's a delicate mechanism: it doesn't take much to cause a failure. But the camera is a dream, and it's worth putting up with the delicacy of it, tho' I've more than once looked back with fondness at my 4x5 view camera days: not much went wrong with that! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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