Tips for getting close to wetland birds.

[mattvardy]

HI, I wondering if anyone out there can offer some help when it

comes to getting close to wetland wildlife, like herons and ducks

for example. I frequently kayak in wetland areas, which are full of

interesting subjects. I am just dying to get an excellent

photograph of a great blue heron. I see them often, I try to creep

up slowly in my kayak, but 9 times out of 10, they take off before I

get within 150 feet.

 

I don't need to get overly close, because I have a 300mm telephoto,

but would of course like to get as close as possible.

 

If you can offer any advise, feel free, thanks.

[gerry_david]

There are blue herons here and I got pretty close last Monday, but with my 6X optical zoom, it was still to small for me, which can be seen at http://www.pbase.com/image/29886322 , center frame. But when I walked around the side, where I was probably 10 yards away, I guess I startled it and it flew away, leaving me with http://www.pbase.com/image/29886323 .

 

Next time Ill walk over slower, hehe.

 

Tips for getting closer, I would just suggest to be patient, and perhaps stay in one area for a while hoping that one comes near by. :0) Perhaps use a hunting shed?

 

Perhaps there is a bird call whistle for herons?

[doug herr]

If there's a particular spot they prefer to feed you can wait patiently outside the bird's 'safety zone'. After a couple of hours the 'safety zone' shrinks, particularly if you act more like a prey species than a predator. I've gotten head-and-shoulders portraits of Great Blue Herons this way with a 400mm lens.

<P>

Predators sneak, try to hide, and stare at the intended meal. Prey species are aware of the sounds and other animals around them, they don't stare and pretty much mind their own business. Here are a few recent photos made with a 280mm lens using this technique:

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<A HREF="http://www.wildlightphoto.com" target="_blank">

<IMG SRC="http://www.wildlightphoto.com/mammals/deco02.jpg"><BR>

<B>Desert Cottontail Rabbit</B>

</A>

<P>

<A HREF="http://www.wildlightphoto.com" target="_blank">

<IMG SRC="http://www.wildlightphoto.com/birds/witu10.jpg"><BR>

<B>Wild Turkey</B>

</A>

<P>

<A HREF="http://www.wildlightphoto.com" target="_blank">

<IMG SRC="http://www.wildlightphoto.com/birds/witu12.jpg"><BR>

<B>Wild Turkey</B>

</A>

</CENTER>

<P>

Another trick for tidal marshes is to set yourself up at low tide and wait for the tide to push the birds toward you.

[greg s]

Hi Matt,

 

I've found that there are 2 main factors in helping me get close to herons.

 

1) Habituation to humans in general: Example = in Florida the birds are so used to people you can photograph them with a wide angle lens.

 

2) Auto as a blind: I frequent the wildlife refuges here in the Northwest and photograph herons at very close range from my car window. If I'm in the car, they tolerate me and my camera.

 

Good luck! -- Greg --

[alex_lofquist]

The GBH is a very skittish bird. Whenever I would attempt to creep up on one, it would invariably fly off. I would only meet with success when I found where they fished then waited patiently. If you can find their nests, you will have a better chance of scouting them. Near where I live outside Chicago, there is an old dead tree above a small lake that usually has a nest or two in it. I can capture photos of them from my car, or only a few feet away from it. The parents don't go far away for feeding, so with a collapsable chair and some reading material, it makes pleasant waiting. In my case a 300mm is not long enough. The birds will be gone before I can get a frame-filling image. Usually I need a 500 with a 1.4X TC, though once they nested close enough for a 400mm.

[craig_bridge]

A 300mm lens on a 35mm film body is a bit short for GBH shots except in areas heavily visited by people.

 

If kayak's are not a frequent visitor to the area, wading birds will see the kayak as an alligator like threat and they are going to leave quickly usually by flight.

 

If you are up on a bank without kayak and paying more attention to your tripod and camera and slowly approaching with pauses and taking pictures in other directions, and the heron is actively fishing, it is just as likely to wade away a bit and continue fishing. After it gets used to your behaviors, it may actually wander back closer. When working with a 600mm this can be annoying and force you to back up meanwhile the heron catches a fish and flies off to feed its young in the nest, oh well, you get to see it just not capture the moment.

[joseph_smith3]

150 feet is pretty close for any wading bird. That is why most of use a 500-600mm lens with a teleconverter for these kinds of images. In my experience the Blue Heron is one of the most skittish birds of all requiring you to be in a blind before he arrives for feeding. And once inside the blind, you must limit your movement and make sure the bird does not see your silhouette. The exceptions are at parks frequented by people where the BH knows he is protected. And then 75 yards is the closest I would venture towards a BH. And I would let him approach me if possible. Joe smith

[bill_proud]

Matt,

 

Purchase an airline ticket to Fort Myers or Saint Augustine Florida during the breeding season, January to May. You get to photograph shorebirds and also, get out of the cold for a spell if you live up north.

 

cheers<div></div>

[eric friedemann]

What BP said. I visited Everglades National Park in February a few years ago and there was an amazing collection of birds that were indifferent to people walking up fairly close to them. I also spied this article the other day:

 

http://www.photofocus.com/zine8/alligator.html

[jay_.]

Doug Herr is definitley *the man* when it comes to getting close to critters, time and time again. If you knew the kind of eccentric old gear he uses you'd be even more in awe of this talent...slow lenses, no motor drive, no tripod. Basically he breaks every rule in the book (including the rule of thirds judging by the above photos)and yet the results are stupendous. I couldn't get that close to stuffed animals, let alone get sharp shots with a handheld tele.

[greg_russell]

Based on my limited experience, I would echo Douglas' answer. It takes patience

patience patience! The longer you let a bird get used to you and the longer you pay

zero attention to it, it will get more used to you. I shot these frames at Huntington

Beach, CA using just such a technique. I am new to the telephoto game, but am

happy with these for the most part. These were shot with a 400 mm lens. Also, by

the way...Your photos are outstanding Matt! I wish I was at your level after such a

short time.

 

Cheers--Greg

 

http://www.photo.net/photo/2433968

http://www.photo.net/photo/2273851

[jimvanson]

I have a friend whose health prevents her from moving more then about a half mile. She can't sit in a blind. She shoots Minolta & 100-300 APO Minolta lens. Her little bird photo's (thats little birds not hunking herons) are superb.<P>And how does she do it? She does three things very well. First she studies her subjects endlessly. She knows what species is where at what time of day/year. Second she baits the birds -- spreading a bit of dried corn or grain around for a couple days before she gets results. Third she is slow moving non-aggressive, patient beyond belief.<P>I should add she also uses Fuji 800 speed film that helps things along.<P>She taught me a bit of what she knows. I used it for this full frame Fuji 800 scan from print:<div></div>

[Two23]

I have a little duckboat that is basically a kayak. I'm a hardcore duck hunter and built a blind using PVC piping and duck camo for my little boat. It works great for shooting ducks and taking photos of birds such as herons etc. Best bet it to paddle out in the dark to a good spot, set up the blind, beach the boat in some mud, and wait. A blind and camo clothes help a lot with skittish birds. BTW, I've just returned from FL. I was not at all impressed with the bird photo opportunities there. Obviously, all of the birds are in South Dakota this time of year. :-)

 

 

Kent in SD

[rick_wong]

Hi Matt

 

I shoot from a kayak and I have been able to get within 10 feet of GBH's the trick is patience. When I see a heron I want to photograph I paddle up slowly until it notices me. I then stop and just sit. I plan to be up wind so the wind will just blow me towards the heron. If the bird is fishing it will not notice you until you are right on top if them. They will focus on their prey and you can approach them slowly but make as little noise as possible. I have a blue kayak and an orange one. I have better luck with my blue one. When I am in the lily pads I reach overboard and move along by pulling myself along you will be only moving a few inches at a time but it is amazing how close you can get when they think that is the fastest you can move.<div></div>

[chris_hansen]

Search the archives. There is a lot on shooting from float tubes,

kayaks, canoes and boats. I have posted plans for floating blinds if

they are still there. Give it a try

God's light to you

 

Chr

[mattvardy]

Thanks everyone for your very informative responses, I can't wait to get out there and give some of your suggestions a try.

[terry manier]

Matt,

I live in a marsh area and have found that a great deal of the

marsh birds will go to a small hole at low tide with little water in

it. I figure small fish are getting trapped in the small ponds... and

then hey like fish in a barrel. I have three of these little holes that I

go to at low tide and poke my head around the corners to get

great shots. Also if you have say an orange kayak... make

something that floats like a log the same color and shape of your

kayak and leave it at the hole. The birds get used to seeing this

orange non threatening thing and have no worries. When they

see another orange thing come floating around the corner they

think hey its another one of those orge floaty things.... just don't

leave the decoy there to long. A couple of days should do the

trick.

 

Terry