Yashica-A

[michael_veit]

My regular MF system is built around the P67, but I just picked up a

Yashica-A at a flea market on a whim to fool around with. I know

nothing at all about the camera but everything looks self-explanatory

except for the film advance dial on the upper right of the body. It

moves around without any resistance or stops so how does one know

when to stop turning the thing to advance to the next frame without

overlap or wasted blank space between frames? Am I missing anything

obvious? Also, am I right in expecting very little from this camera

optically? The lens looks clean and is marked, "Tashimar 1:3.5 674996"

 

Thanks for any reply,

 

-Michael

[rputikar]

Yashica A were produced between 1958-1969, they came with a 3 element Yashimar 3.5 lens which offered reasonable performance.

 

<P>

you will find brief info on

<a href="http://www.williamsphotographic.com/yashica.html"> http://www.williamsphotographic.com/yashica.html </a>.

 

<P>

According to this page, Film advance is manual using the red-window system.

 

<P>

I have a Yashica D on which there's a button on the film advance knob. Press the button before advancing the film and the advance knob will automatically stop at the next frame.

[michael_veit]

Thanks for the website, Ranjeet. I found a thread on the Yashica-A with some positive comments, but I suppose every underdog has its boosters. Film is loaded and I'm heading out to take it for a spin. If nothing else, I'll have a bit of fun.

[nolan woodbury]

To the best of my knowledge, the Yashica A doesn't have a button on the film advance knob. It is simply a matter of turning the knob while carefully watching the red window, and centering the next frame number in it to insure getting all 12 exposures from the roll.

 

The "button advance" seems to have started on the Yashica B. None of my A's have a button, but my B does.To the best of my knowledge, the Yashica A doesn't have a button on the film advance knob. It is simply a matter of turning the knob while carefully watching the red window, and centering the next frame number in it to insure getting all 12 exposures from the roll. The "button advance" seems to have started on the Yashica B. None of my A's have a button, but my B does.

 

Yashica A taking lenses are marked "Yashimar" or "Yashikor" but I admit, I have not heard of the Tashimar. Are you certain that "T" isn't a "Y"? Anyway, its most likely another version of the Yashica triplet lens that was commonly fitted to this camera. It is a good lens Michael, not as sharp corner to corner as a Tessar-type lens but I have found it gives pleasing images on informal portraits when kept between f5.6 to f11. A very warm lens with reasonable sharpness and very decent contrast. All in all, the Yashica A is a very durable camera with good, even surprising optics. You may be shocked just how good the images will look, as many who first use this camera are.

[michael_veit]

Of course, you're right, Nolan -- it's a "Y," not "T." Shot a couple rolls yesterday and I have to say sharpness looks quite good under a loupe. I'll try some enlargements later today.

 

One thing I'm going to have serious issues with is framing in that dim viewfinder, but even with that difficulty, shooting with the Yashica was a real treat and very liberating after using that huge, heavy P6/7 with tripod all the time.

 

One other question: how reliable have folks found the timing of the Yashica's mechanical shutter to be? Also, I notice that the shutter dial doesn't have click stops at the marked times; can intermediate times be approximated between those marked?

 

Thanks...

 

-Michael

[garvey_p]

Michael:

 

Have you tried cleaning the mirror and/or the screen? I used to have a Yashica D and a repair manual, and I found cleaning the mirror was a piece of cake--and it brightened things up immensely. Just remove the screws holding the WLF to the top of the camera, and the entire WLF housing will lift out in one piece. Then you can easily pop the mirror out (it's quite simple and intuitive--you'll see) and clean the years of grime away. Clean the inside of the viewing lens, too. Then pop the mirror back in, and put the WLF back on. Or while it's still off, go ahead and wipe off the viewing screen. You could go as far as removing the glass and screen for the viewer, but it is a bit more tricky. However, if you're mechanically inclined, or if you have a manual, you could probably figure it out. But getting the mirror clean will do wonders for you.

 

Garvey

[michael_veit]

"But getting the mirror clean will do wonders for you. "

 

You're not kidding! Just did as you suggested while sitting here at the computer and the difference is amazing. The mirror in particular was a real mess.

 

I'm not sure which I feel stronger: gratitude for all the great advice I've been given by you good people, or frustration that I didn't think of these fixes/suggestions myself. Anyway, thanks so much!

[nolan woodbury]

Michael asked: "One other question: how reliable have folks found the timing of the Yashica's mechanical shutter to be? Also, I notice that the shutter dial doesn't have click stops at the marked times; can intermediate times be approximated between those marked?"

 

I tried it on one of my camera's Michael, and I can't tell. If I had the right equipment (like a camera tech should) I could check the timing. Maybe your local camera repair shop can help...if not, Mark Hama or Paul Ebel certainly could. The iris opening indeed *is* variable however, which is not always the case. Incidently, the majority of old, knob wind Yashica TLR's I have purchased over the years have not needed a thing but a good cleaning. Amazing! These truly are GREAT old cameras.

[garvey_p]

When I had my Yashica D, I used to guess between shutter speeds and all my pix came out fine. Of course, I suppose most print film has wide exposure latitude, so I might not be the wiser.

 

But Nolan makes a good point about the aperture being completely variable, so if you're not happy guessing between stops, go ahead and play with the aperture. I have a buddy who shoots exclusively with a Yashica A, and he never shoots between shutter clicks--he only changes the aperture in cases where he needs to go in-between. The only problems he ever has with his Yashica A is (1) the maximum shutter speed of 1/300, since it limits him from using faster film in certain situations, and (2) the red-window film advance method, as he sometimes forgets if he advanced the film, which causes him to waste a little film rather than double expose. But film is cheap, so it doesn't matter much.

 

You could always test your shutter speeds in one of many ways (see http://people.smu.edu/rmonagha/mf/shutterspeed.html or any of the postings on this subject in this forum).

 

Garvey

[renaud_maurin]

I also just bought a Yashica A today actually, and I was wondering if anyone else have a really really hard to move shutter speed dial? mine is VERY hard to move and infact i get red marks on the tips of my fingers while moving it, is this just a matter of age or are they all made like this?

 

Also I was wondering about the red window that indicates what number your film count is, why does it have the ability to close? does the film get slowly exposed if it is left open? And seeing as it has a window i am guessing i cannot use infrared film in this camera without exposing it right?

[rodrigo_orrantia1]

Renaud:

 

Although I don´t have a definite answer on the use of the closing counter window, I can tell you this:

1.I used various rolls of infrared film, with the window both closed and opened, and the results were good. I think the paper sheet that protects the film does its work.

ONCE I tried exposing the film THROUGH the counter window, and it took a lot of time (almost 30 min) and a strong source of light to leave a square trace on the negative.

SO in conclusion: you can use infrared film safely in the Yashica A, but try and keep the counter window closed whenever you can.

R.

[richardlowes]

I too just bought a Yashica A. And yes, my shutter speed dial is hard to turn. Will be giving the mirror a good cleaning shortly as well, thanks for the info. Has anyone got a photo taken with the Yashica A that they want to share?

[richardlowes]

Not sure how to add a link here but I have scanned an image taken with my Yashica-A. http://www.photo.net/photo/2032857

[dano1]

Well I guess I'm not alone!

 

I just got my Yashica-A in the mail. The dial isn't all that hard to turn, I guess I'm fortunate. However, once I change the film I will have to try cleaning the mirror. Looking through the magnifier, the borders are all completley black in bright daylight.

 

Mine looks like it's in great condition, save for the warping of the material on the steel casing. I loaded it with some TMX, and have already taken 6 test shots, I love it!

 

BTW, to the guy that posted the photo, something seems to be wrong with it. It looks like it's over compressed or something. You may want to find out if by "quality" on your photo editor it means percent of quality, or percent compression. On PSP it's percent compression, so I set it to 20, maybe 25 if I'm really trying to save space. However, I believe PS uses quality, so if you use that you would want to set it to 80%, though I could be wrong. I would love to see that picture the way it was meant to be seen!

 

Hey, I can't test mine right now becuase I've got film in it, but does anyone know at what point the shutter switches over to bulb, and what shutter speed it sounds like at that point?

 

Can't wait to get back the negatives (I don't have the right equipment to dev 120),

Dan O.

[dano1]

BTW, I'm a little confused about a few things. First, what filter type does it use? I thought that all the Yashica TLRs took the Bay 1 (B30) filter. Now I have read the manual again and it says that it takes 32mm filters. Is a 32mm the same as a Bay 1, or is it something different entirely?

 

I just spent $6 on a Bay 1 lens cap, will it fit?

 

Oh, and the other thing, what is the max flash synchonization speed, and is it safe to use a Vivitar 2800 flash?