Beginner Portrait Tips

[mlhostetter]

Here are some great steps I have gathered from this site and I have

complied them into this list to keep with me when shooting. I would

like for you to check it out and let me know what I may be missing

here. There are just so many questions about this and the answers

seem to be strewn everywhere. I am hoping to compile a single list to

help beginners get started. Let me know where I have strayed? Of

course I know that there are alot of variables to this, but I am

trying to keep it a general starting point as not to overwhelm with

things the beginner may not yet know.

 

Photo Tips

 

 

SETUP

 

1. Clear location of any distracting clutter

2. Check available light direction and intensity

3. Setup background support. (if necessary)

4. Arrange lighting and scrims (if necessary).

5. Test shoot with digital before placing subject.

6. Re-adjust lighting and place subject for quick test shots.

7. Use this time to loosen up the subject. Chit chat and fire

till ready.

8. This will allow the person to become comfortable in front of

the camera.

 

OUTDOORS (portraits)

 

1. When shooting outdoors, use narrow DOF and Slow Film. shoot

wide open. (non action shots)

2. Shoot early morning or late evening. Watch for shadows. Use

fill light. (magic hour. Light is warmer)

3. Focus on subjects eyes. Shoot at eye level.

4. Use longer lens and fill frame by zooming with feet to avoid

barrel effect. (Personal preference here)

5. Capture subject at ease. Avoid forced expressions.

6. Polarizing filters will cut through haze for great color

saturation.

7. Use reflectors to fill in shadow areas.

8. Test shoot with Digital, then shoot film.

 

 

STUDIO SETTING (Portraits)

 

1. Adjust lighting and watch for shadows

2. Use butterfly lighting to minimize flaws.

3. Play music that will put subject at ease.

4. Work efficiently and smoothly.

5. Focus on eyes, shoot at eye level.

6. When using filters, adjust for light loss.

7. Use reflectors for fill light to ease shadows.

8. Test shot with digital, then with film.

 

 

Do NOT let your frustrations show. This will put your subjects on

edge which will come across in their photographs. Make it a fun and

relaxing experience for both you and your model. Remember what you do

this for.

[richard_milner2]

This is all good advice. I would add to be careful photographing young children as they get tired or bored easily. Children however can warm up very fast if they like the camera.

 

I think you would be interested to compare the methods Jane Bown describes in her book 'Faces.' Her shooting methods are almost entirely different to yours, because as a photojournalist she is forced to take shots as and when she can. Despite these restrictions, her book is full of the most wonderful portraits.

[barry_kenstler]

Marylou,

 

I applaud your mission to create a checklist for the developing portrait photographer. It might be interesting if others shared their written or mental lists too. I'd like to think I'm past the point where I need your list, but I still manage to include a piece of unsightly garbage in the picture on occasion, so maybe I'm not. I know I go down a mental list each time I have to drag a bunch of gear with me. Another area where I'd find a list very helpful is in posing. There are times, when after about 50 frames, I start scratching my head looking for another pose. I'm working on compiling a list of poses with line drawings so this isn't a problem in the future.

 

I think your list is mostly sound, but with regard to the list for shooting outdoors there are a few suggestions that I'm not sure fit my style. Though I do generally look for shallow depth of field, when shooting handheld I don't necessary select a slow speed film. Rather, I prefer to shoot with 400 speed film (medium format especially) to use higher shutter speeds to avoid blur due to camera motion. Also, I often shoot headshots from above eye level, especially when I'm shooting subjects with heavy chins or when the surroundings are unattractive. I think it would be better to suggest shooting portraits at eye leve or above, except when shooting 3/4 or full-body.

 

I agree that the nicest light occurs at the beginning and end of the day, but beginners should not limit themselves to these times. At the times in between, one can create wonderful portraits using "indirect" light in conjunction with something blocking the skylight from directly above.

 

I didn't mean any of this as a criticism, but just my take on some of your checklist items.

[igord]

You will not get anything really good following these steps. You cannot say "focus on this", "shoot from this level", use long lens, use shallow DOF etc., it doesn't make you creative. I would rather say: try to get the atmosphere of existing lighting, work with perspective to get the best point of view, try different lenses, make your eyes to see more, try to work with colours, try to capture a decisive moment. That's why in my opinion photography can be art.

[mlhostetter]

Igor,

This was not meant as a hard and fast rule by any means, its just that often beginners pick up a camera and have no idea where to start. This list was complied as a starting place. Not a place to get award winning photos. I think it is important for new photographers to have a starting point. I think that you can obtain good photos using these methods, however we all agree that the only way to improve is to try something and variate methods based on your results. Beginners are often overwhelmed in trying to remember EVERYTHING that goes into a photo, sometimes it helps to have a physical list to refer to until they can stick it mentally.

To all prospective newbies, please take this list, use it, modify it and accept it in the spirit in which it has been offered.

 

Keep on Shootin' ;->

Marylou<div></div>

[igord]

I do think that beginners must not follow your steps. Beginners are often more creative then pros becouse they try to experiment, that is why many agencies/magazines hire young photographers (except that they are cheaper of course...). Experimenting makes you a good photographer. Maybe one can watch paintings (Matisse, Balthus) before starting shooting portraits.

[._._z]

These are valid tips for typical formal sittings, but not necessarily for all portraits. If

distracting clutter is part of a person's personality you can get excellent results by

incorporating it. Backgrounds/supports? Not essential. Chitchat with subject? Usually

yes, but again, it depends on the person -- who says they have to look comfortable?

(Sure, if they're paying, but....). And who says you need to use artificial lighting? <p>

 

Here's one pro's tips on a few dozen shots, mostly location portraits, using a limited

lighting setup: <p>

 

<u><A href =

http://www.dg28.com/technique.html>

http://www.dg28.com/technique.html</a></u>

[mlhostetter]

I do think that beginners must not follow your steps.

(Sort of a strong statement don't you think?)

 

Beginners are often more creative then pros becouse they try to experiment, that is why many agencies/magazines hire young photographers (except that they are cheaper of course...)

(speaks for itself I would think.)

 

Experimenting makes you a good photographer.

(I agree but if we followed your philosophy we would have no need for a camera's operating manual would we? Its kinda hard to use if you don't know where the on button is..lol)

 

Just Maybe one can watch paintings (Matisse, Balthus) before starting shooting portraits.

(do you not mean picking up a paintbrush?)

 

Igor... It seems that you are seriously upset by this post for some reason, although I have no idea why. We are all here to learn something. And everyone here has very different views and opinions on how some thing should be done. Any 2 people can look at the same photograph and have entirely different opinion. This is simply about what the viewer, or in this case, reader, sees when they look at something. BTW I tried to look at your portfolio to gleam some insite to your earlier comments and only found 1 photo. Which is very nice BTW, but I cannot understand fully what your point is without having something to compare it to. I would like very much to see more of your work.

We are all here to learn and to share...I understand you are passionate about your opinions, that is good, but it may help to be alittle more lighthearted when trying to convey your meaning.

 

You must learn to crawl before you can walk...

 

Keep on Shootin' ;->

 

Marylou

[._._z]

<i><blockquote> Any 2 people can look at the same photograph and have entirely

different opinion. </blockquote> </i><p>

 

And at least one of them could be wrong.

[mlhostetter]

True.. true..... or here's a thought, maybe they could both be right........... i'll leave this for another day.... best to all....

 

Marylou

[beepy]

Great pointer .[. Z...

[igord]

Marylou, I am not upset. Look here

http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-one-category?topic_id=1550&category=Fashion%2c+General

 

I try to share my work with other people forum contributors.

[mlhostetter]

I am glad you have listed the thread above. I was able to browse through your images and I greatly enjoyed them. Your work is over all very beautiful and while not all photos fit my taste, you have done a great job. I see your point now that I have seen your photos. You have a definitive shooting style and I can see where my basic tips would put a straight jacket on someone with your shooting style. I agree that creativity is a must in order to grow, but here again , I stand by my earlier statement, "we must learn to walk before we can crawl"

 

You have a beautiful style of work and I appreciate your eye. Now that I know where to find your work, I will defintely keep on watching.

 

Best Regards,

 

Marylou

[john falkenstine]

Look at the good feedback you're getting. I'm putting in my 2 bits: Accept all advice with caution but don't reject anything. Go to your local used or new bookstore (Used can have some fantastic books) and read, read, read!!!! With factual knowledge, you can filter out incorrect "tribal knowledge". Also; a word of caution. My parents decided to have some pics taken of themselves by a local well-known professional photographer after I told them I wouldn't photograph them in the stilted poses they always go into when somebody tries to take their picture. When they got (the very expensive) pictures back they were disappointed because the images had been badly retouched and everybody had the same eyeballs...really horrible.

[Spearhead]

I understand completely where Igor is coming from, because it's how I see it as well, although my work is very different than his.

<p>

The problem is that some of these recommendations will produce a very specific type of photograph, one that is neither necessary or, for some, desirable. For example, I shoot stopped down whenever there is enough light and avoid wide apertures, except at night. Plenty of portrait photographers do this. I shoot with wide angle lenses, although this is a bit unusual, many of the great portraits taken in the last hundred years were done with a "normal" lens. Capturing subjects at ease works if you want them at ease, but there are some portraits that work best if there is an edge to the subject. Every portrait at ease results in blandness. Shooting at eye level, same thing - different perspectives can change the feeling, giving it something more than just a record.<p>

 

<i>read, read, read!!!!</i><p>

 

This was advice from someone else, but I would add this to the list of things that won't necessarily help. Instead, it should be look, look, look!!! Get books of portraits by Avedon and Newman and Rogovin and Garduno. Look at classic portraits by Bravo and Weston. Learn how little the standardized approach works and how much creativity can be very easily put into portraiture.<p>

 

Some of mine can be found <a href="http://www.spirer.com/alone/index.htm">here.</a>

[scott_milso]

Marylou, FWIW the portrait you posted is very nice.

I would add - make sure you get catchlights in the eyes especially for a head shot 99% of the time (of course this is not set in stone, but IMHO cath lights or lack of them amke or break many portraits)

As you said the focus is usually best on the eyes esp if shooting wide open.

[GerrySiegel]

Thanks Marylou. I don't think a checklist is bad. It may be good if it doesn't become a 'checklist approach.' That's all,Marylou. I worked with a portrait guy who always carried a roll of dark black seamless and a backlight with a blue gel over it to ALL shoots.Tht is his way,and I am not equipped to say its not OK. He fretted so much over the reflections in eyeglasses that he got me (and the subjects) crazy. But I am looking at one of his shots on my wall now of my family and it is a successful picture. Not my style,but successful. I especially agree with your suggestion about putting people at ease. I believe our work should be a fun experience. Shadows are a tough call. I see a lot of comments in the portfolios about shadows(don't you?),and I think the concerns are overblown,personally. Shooting at eye level is a good thing for beginners,I firmly believe. And this may mean a stool. Polarizers, I am agnostic about. Truthfully,I never use them when I shoot a face,and only now and then for scenics,-some have them and I like them over my eyes,maybe its laziness,dunno. Reflectors are a good idea. Everybody sweats fill flash when reflectors are so useful,except when the wind crashes them on your subject. No laugh,it happened to me. Thanks for starting a useful discussion. If we all agreed,this place would be really boring.Aloha, and cool trade breezes to you this Summer. Gerry